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Old 10-07-2013, 11:22 AM   #1
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2008 DRV Mobile Suite Hydraulics

I have recently purchased a 2008 DRV Mobile Suite. It has a 6 point hydraulic leveling system that is manual. I have 1 control for the front jacks and a second 2 button control with a key lock that controls each side of the rear jacks separately. I have never used this type before and did not get any manual with my rig. Anybody have any kind of information on this system? I believe it is factory installed but maybe not the dual rear controller, that looks like a add on. Thanks Rory
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:16 PM   #2
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Well, what do you want to know about it?
It uses 12V to power the motor to pump the fluid, it will level the trailer (within reason) after you unhook from the truck.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:12 PM   #3
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Check with boonvillervservicecenter.com The owner, Dale Fenton, invented the system you have, and sold it to Lippert. Call them, I'll bet they will help you out.
Joe
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:23 PM   #4
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Thanks for the Information

Thanks for the information. Is there a specific sequence of leveling the trailer? How much in inches will it compensate for? Do I still need to level with boards under the wheels prior to using the hydraulics? Where is the best place to initially check for level? I have heard the floor. My prior trailer was all manual hand crank stabilizers with electric front legs and I would level based on the fridge.
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:32 PM   #5
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Actually, since mine does not have the self-leveling system, I can't tell you how to use it.
It should have at least 18" of height adjustment in each leg--enough that you can lift the tires off the ground to change them. You should not need any boards, except to spread weight to keep the pads from sinking into soft ground.
Again, give Fenton a call--he is well-known for being helpful. I believe there may be an upgrade available to make it automatic--ask about that.
As to level, yes, the fridge needs to be the focus of leveling; however, if you are comfortable where you set it, that will be level enough. I use the floor of my trailer just inside the door--and double-check with the swing of the bathroom door.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:47 PM   #6
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Once I get it level I plan on installing some bubble levels up front to help set go quicker
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:52 PM   #7
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Does your fridge have the above-below doors, or the side x side?
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:59 PM   #8
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I have the 2 seperate freezer doors above and the fridge doors open into one big fridge
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:23 PM   #9
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Thats a nice fridge.
You can put a level in the freezer area before ice builds up to find a level for it. Then check the floors, you may find them to be a little off compared to the freezer. Again, if it is comfortable for you to sit, stand, walk and lay in bed, the fridge will be fine. I mentioned the bath door as it is always a hassle if it won't stay where it is left, especially if it swings open. Also, guess you have the sliding door? to separate the bed/bath from the living/kitchen? That is also a hassle if it wants to move open or closed and not stay where it is put without locking it open/closed.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:25 PM   #10
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The hydraulic rams are about 17" in length, each will lift around 15,000 lbs. so no problem raising your trailer on almost any spot. The main problems are that the owner does one of two things that cause the trailer to bounce or shake when you walk.

First - raise the trailer enough that the weight is off the suspension. If the lot rolls off to one side you would watch the high side to see that those tires are just touching. Your low side tires may be two, three or four inches off the ground. So check this-

Second - owners allow the lifting to extend the ram almost to it's full length, causing more side to side sway in the ram. If you are lifting so one side is off the ground while the other is just touching (as in First - above) - be sure you put blocks under the low side so the ram only needs to go out about 8 - 10 inches to raise the tires and just allow the high side to just touch.

On some sites I have 8"-10" of blocks under one side of the trailer (low side) and 4" under the high side. ALL of these blocks go under the rams NONE - NEVER - DON'T (how more succinct can I be) put blocks under the wheels. You don't level a DRV like you would a normal 5th or TT.

If you follow these methods you will have a solid base and almost no movement in the trailer (we run our washer and dryer all the time and have very little movement). Good luck - check out my site for other suggestions -

DRV Owners Manual contains RV Owners Manuals
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