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Old 07-04-2012, 06:19 PM   #15
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Need Information

ByronD

Please give us the make and model and year of the trailer.

The battery will charge on both 50amp and 30amp supplies.

The rest we need to know is are the slides hydraulic or cable operated?

At this point you donít need to know anything about the 30 / 50 am service except that they both charge the battery, you need to disregard about all of what has been posted here about the electrics.
.
You need help with your slide. Let us know what they are and you will get all the help the forum members can give you.

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Old 07-04-2012, 06:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FDNYdave View Post
A 50 Amp service/RV is 240v when you plug it into a 30 AMP service(120) volts only half of your AC electrical system is energized it's possible ( probable)that the nonfunction systems are on that half of your system that's not energized.
Plugging a 30 AMP RV into a 50 amp pedestal is is a lot more straight foward then pluging a 50 amp RV into a 30 amp pedestal
Wrong info above
A 30 amp RV circuit is 3,600 watts. (30 X 120)
A 50 amp RV circuit is 12,000 watts. (50 X 120 X 2) since each leg has it's own 50 amp breaker.
99.9% of 50 amp RV's use it as two 120 volt connections. Only some highend (think Prevost, Newell) will use it as 240 volts.
When wired correctly and hooked to a 30 amp adapter everything in a 50 amp RV will work, but you will be limited to 3,600 watts. All circuits will be energized unless you have a power management system that won't let the air cons both run on 30 amps.
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:41 PM   #17
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Is your parking brake on? My slides wouldn't work, ckecked everything I could think of, was ready to call for an appointment. Ours is in storage I got about a mile down the road, and remembered I haven't applied the parking brake!! Hope yours to be that simple!
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Wrong info above
A 30 amp RV circuit is 3,600 watts. (30 X 120)
A 50 amp RV circuit is 12,000 watts. (50 X 120 X 2) since each leg has it's own 50 amp breaker.
99.9% of 50 amp RV's use it as two 120 volt connections. Only some highend (think Prevost, Newell) will use it as 240 volts.
When wired correctly and hooked to a 30 amp adapter everything in a 50 amp RV will work, but you will be limited to 3,600 watts. All circuits will be energized unless you have a power management system that won't let the air cons both run on 30 amps.
Mr_D has it correct.

Now lets have the information needed to try and help you with your slides.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FDNYdave View Post
A 50 Amp service/RV is 240v when you plug it into a 30 AMP service(120) volts only half of your AC electrical system is energized it's possible ( probable)that the nonfunction systems are on that half of your system that's not energized.
Plugging a 30 AMP RV into a 50 amp pedestal is is a lot more straight foward then pluging a 50 amp RV into a 30 amp pedestal

Uh, in a word: BULL.

You are wrong in your "Where as" and thus half wrong in your Conclusions as well.

50 amp service, is 120/240 volt, not 240 volt, Same as the service to your house.

NOTHING in the RV uses 240 volt unless YOU have added 240 volt stuff (or a previous owner)

So what you get is 2 legs of 120 volt service, Each 50 amp,, Now I can explain why it is done this way but, .. Well, WHY?

The 50 amp plug has 4 "pins"

The round-ish one is safety ground (same on 15, 20 and 30 amp plugs by the way)

Opposite the Safety ground (on a 50) is NEUTRAL.
The sides are Leg 1 and Leg 2 of the 120/240 volt split phase power.
in short "The hot leads"

The 30 amp adapter has 3 pins, Safety ground (Describe avobe)
Neutral, and HOT.

IT connects the HOT lead to BOTH L-1 and L-2

Thus ALL the appliances and equipment gets power. Normally.

I live in a 50 amp Class A and spend much of my time on 30 amp sites so I know of where I speak.

HOWEVER:

There is such a thing as a bad adapter, I have seen them where either a wire broke, was not well connected or the outlet had one side fail and they only delivered power to one leg.

Oh, why deliver 120/240 power.. Well it's a voltage loss thing.

If you delivered 100 amps at 120 volt you would need much larger (And more costly) wire to haul the current. But by delivering 120/240 at 50 amps, you get the same 12000 watts of power, with 1/2 the current. because you can use every amp twice before sending it back.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:52 AM   #20
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Gawd dern, a controversy! Thanks one and all for input. Going out there today and I am having a 50 amp supply installed. See if that is the real deal. System is hydrolic and I can hear the system actuate when the button is pushed. It's trying but not able, I've been there myself...I will keep you all posted, thanks again for all the input. ByronD...
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:16 AM   #21
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Our 50 system is connected to 30 amp supply and the slides will not retract. I am thinking that the battery must not be fully charged due to the lower supply amps. I tried hooking the truck batteries with a jumper cable, no help. Anyone have any ideas. Guess I will have to bite the bullet and get an electrician out to up the connection to 50 amp...is that my only option? Thanks in advance for any advise...ByronD

System is hydrolic and I can hear the system actuate when the button is pushed. Going out there today and I am having a 50 amp supply installed.
I don't think installing a new 50 amp service is going to get you anywhere with this problems.
Let's take this from the top:
-eliminate the electricity issue altogether. Most hydraulic systems have a manual override on the end of the pump to use an electric drill to manually activate the pump. If the slide works properly with this method, then it may very well be an issue with the pump getting electricity, corroded wires/connections. If it does not work, then electricity is not the problem and you have to look elsewhere.
-is there sufficient pressure in the system: is there sufficient fluid in the reservoir? check the rams and around/underneath them for fluid leaking that would reduce pressure to the rams.
-slides are notorious for sticking. I use about a 1/2 can of silicon spray every once in a while, on the ram arms, the bottom of the slide, the fulcrum on the floor/frame that it slides over.
-is there something blocking the rams in the basement (under the slide floor) that would prevent the arms from moving.
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:18 AM   #22
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Gentlemen -
please take the electrical theoretical controversy to pm or another thread so the OP can get some focused help !
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:58 AM   #23
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gentlemen -
please take the electrical theoretical controversy to pm or another thread so the op can get some focused help !

x2

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Old 07-07-2012, 05:59 PM   #24
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Hey gang, I used jumper cables from my pick up battery to trailer battery and the slides worked. Thank you very much for all your excellent input. I learned a lot from the many exchanges. Just demonstrates what a great web site this is, thanks again...ByronD...
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:28 PM   #25
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Some things to check and some thoughts.

Check EVERY circuit in the motor home for power... IT helps if you know the layout of your breaker box and which circuit is on which breaker.. If you have TWO air conditioners, ideally one will be on each leg.. So if they both work you may skip this but read on anyway.

When you adapt a 50 amp rig to 30 amps, normally the adapter hooks the same HOT wire to both sides of the 50 amp outlet.. Thus you get 120 volts, relative to neutral, on both leads.

HOWEVER, if the adapter has a broken wire (The jumper) only half the RV gets power.

Likewise if the socket on the adapter is bad and one side is not makign contact.

This failure has been reported several times in the forums.
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