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Old 11-06-2015, 02:59 PM   #15
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got it right this time

what I meant to say is you can adapt a 50 amp cord to run from a 30 amp breaker, but not a 30 amp cord to run from a 50 amp breaker. onca again my apologies.
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:01 PM   #16
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I thank you very much for the lengthy reply. However, what is in bold I have purchased both products over the counter already factory made. I have a 30 female to 50 male adapter and I also have a 50 male to 30 female adapter.
Yep. I have both also ...hand both are "store-bought"
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:09 PM   #17
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Wish I had a nickle--no, make it a dime--for every time this subject has been "disected" on IRV2. Lots of facts here and a few opinions. Most Class A rigs use a 50 amp service [meaning 2 separate 50 amp legs]. Same concept as most new residential houses --200 amp service [means two 200 amp legs for a total 400 amps of available power].

Like most houses, RVs have few if any appliances that combine both legs to create 240 volts--eg, kitchen ranges, home water heaters, heating elements in furnaces, etc. With the exception of some very large RV coaches, all appliances run a single leg of 120volts. Having two legs of 50 amps, simply gives you a total of 100 amps, just like the residential house example.

Sure they make them, but personally, I dont like adaptors [dogbones] that step down 50 amps on any given leg, to feed a 30 amp RV service--sure the 30 amp breaker in your RV will limit draw but chances are you are using a cord rated for only 30 amps. That means any defect or fault in your cord will be subject to a 50 amp breaker, not the 30 amps it was designed for--that is why I wont use such an adaptor.....

A 50 amp residential plug for a kitchen range is exacly the same as an RV 50 amp plug--but unlike the range, your RV never combines the two legs to produce 240v. Older residential homes have a three prong plug for a dryer but in this case, the dryer combines both legs to create 240vs--this would be bad news for an RV, if you ever managed to use a dryer plug. The latest residential codes now require a 4-prong plug for dryers--2-120v legs, a grounds and now a neutral.
Hope this helps some but will probably only confuse others--so for them, please hire a qualified electrician.....
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:11 PM   #18
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Hate to burst a bubble here, but my 50 amp Montana has two separate 30 amp circuits coming off the cable and into the breaker box. I know this as there are two 30 amp breakers and I took one of them and ran it to my inverter, then to the breaker so I could run that half of the breaker box off battery/inverter. The other is still straight through and its AC comes from shore power only. There aren't two 50 amp circuits.
RV makers don't have to use the full 100 Amps. Running both AC and every other thing in your 5th wheel will be well under 60 amps so you are fine. You might find a way to blow a main breaker if you plugged in enough things with heating elements, electric cookers and electric heaters.

The designers of your RV saw fit to allow a total load of only 60 Amps of 120 VAC, and this gave them some cost reduction. Chances are the main wiring is sized to carry only 30 Amps on L1, L2, and Neutral. Your shore cable may also be only sized this way too, it should have a rating sticker on it near one of the ends.
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:11 PM   #19
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I thank you very much for the lengthy reply. However, what is in bold I have purchased both products over the counter already factory made. I have a 30 female to 50 male adapter and I also have a 50 male to 30 female adapter.
I'm Sorry am I reading this correct and arent they the same thing? 30femto 50male is the same as 50male to 30fem ... i assume you just wrote this wrong ? ;-)
30 male to 50 female ( 30 amp box up to 50 service ) and 50 male to 30 female (50 amp box to 30 amp service)
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:20 PM   #20
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I agree they shouldn't sell a 30 to 50 amp adapter, but then by that same line of thought they shouldn't make 18 gauge extension cords either. both have the potential for a fire. because it allows the short circuit protection to exceed the rating of the wire connected to it.
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:07 PM   #21
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I agree they shouldn't sell a 30 to 50 amp adapter, but then by that same line of thought they shouldn't make 18 gauge extension cords either. both have the potential for a fire. because it allows the short circuit protection to exceed the rating of the wire connected to it.
my present small fifthwheel has only 30 amp service . I have to have the adaptor when I am at a campground that only has 50 amp pedestal . I don't care if you hook up to a 500 amp pedestal all your going to use is the 30 amps cause any more you will throw the 30 breaker in the trailer
same thing if your rv has 50 amp hookup and you use a adaptor to hook to a 30 amp pedestal you only going to use 30 amps cause the breaker in the pedestal will trip at 30 amps where the fire hazard in that?
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:21 PM   #22
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my present small fifthwheel has only 30 amp service . I have to have the adaptor when I am at a campground that only has 50 amp pedestal . I don't care if you hook up to a 500 amp pedestal all your going to use is the 30 amps cause any more you will throw the 30 breaker in the trailer
same thing if your rv has 50 amp hookup and you use a adaptor to hook to a 30 amp pedestal you only going to use 30 amps cause the breaker in the pedestal will trip at 30 amps where the fire hazard in that?

You only have a very small fairly unlikely window of danger. A dead short in the wiring between the breaker on the pedestal and the breaker in your RV. Such a short would cause the wiring between the short and the pedestal to be overloaded for a very short period before the pedestal breaker tripped.


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Old 11-06-2015, 06:28 PM   #23
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:15 PM   #24
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I'm Sorry am I reading this correct and arent they the same thing? 30femto 50male is the same as 50male to 30fem ... i assume you just wrote this wrong ? ;-)
30 male to 50 female ( 30 amp box up to 50 service ) and 50 male to 30 female (50 amp box to 30 amp service)
Yes, I may have written it incorrectly. They are exactly opposite. One (the 30 to 50) allows you to plug into 30 amp breaker at the park and run 50 amp service in the trailer. The other one(50 amp to 30 amp) allows a 30 amp trailer to plug into 50 amp service in the park. I have had both a 30 amp wired TT and a 50 amp TT hence the need for both. Now I have traded for a nice, no very very nice, Bay Hill 5th. I will still save the 30 to 50 for those few times when we might hit a spot that only has 30 amp service. I will however no longer need the 50 amp to 30 since the trailer will be 50 amps.
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:36 PM   #25
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Just for clarification, you gave this "Conntek 14315 RV 1.5-Foot Pigtail Adapter Power Cord RV 50 Amp Male Plug To RV", as what you have used for a 50A outlet to a 30A service connection. In reading the description, it says it has 10/3 for wire, meaning yes it is 30A, but in all reality, you would be "protected" by the wire not a breaker. #10 wire is good for 30A or less constant load. Anything over that, could melt the wire coatings causing a short which first off could destroy anything that happens to be on at the time, and/or cause a fire. Then, maybe after all that it might trip a 50A breaker.
I also stand corrected that this type of adapter is available commercially, I personally don't see how they could sell it under NEC regulations. The "source" is where the protection is to be, not at the "load". But I guess money talks, LOL.

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Old 11-07-2015, 10:34 PM   #26
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my present small fifthwheel has only 30 amp service . I have to have the adaptor when I am at a campground that only has 50 amp pedestal . I don't care if you hook up to a 500 amp pedestal all your going to use is the 30 amps cause any more you will throw the 30 breaker in the trailer
same thing if your rv has 50 amp hookup and you use a adaptor to hook to a 30 amp pedestal you only going to use 30 amps cause the breaker in the pedestal will trip at 30 amps where the fire hazard in that?
you can replace a 15 amp breaker with 30 amp in your house panel or stick a penny behind a fuse and probably won't have a problem, but I would have trouble sleeping there. best solution would be a 50 amp cord and use 50 to 30 adapter for 30 amp pedestal. at least then you're legal, and your insurance company won't have a leg if something screwy happens.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:29 PM   #27
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you can replace a 15 amp breaker with 30 amp in your house panel or stick a penny behind a fuse and probably won't have a problem, but I would have trouble sleeping there. best solution would be a 50 amp cord and use 50 to 30 adapter for 30 amp pedestal. at least then you're legal, and your insurance company won't have a leg if something screwy happens.
I said nuthin about overloading or bypassing a breaker or adding a heavier one your only going to pull the amperage the lowest rated breaker is being in the camper or on the pedestal
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:38 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Walt Bennett View Post
Hate to burst a bubble here, but my 50 amp Montana has two separate 30 amp circuits coming off the cable and into the breaker box. I know this as there are two 30 amp breakers and I took one of them and ran it to my inverter, then to the breaker so I could run that half of the breaker box off battery/inverter. The other is still straight through and its AC comes from shore power only. There aren't two 50 amp circuits.
Then you can only draw 7,200 watts (2 X 30 x 120) and not the full 12,000 watts (2 X 50 X 120) that a 50 amp RV setup can supply.

And ours is one of the few that does use 240 inside the rig. The dryer is a 240 volt unit. As far as I know nothing else is.
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