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Old 05-17-2016, 12:53 AM   #15
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Over on the Dutchmen forum we've had many of us complaining of the main, fully-ducted A/C not cooling properly. What we've found, and it may be true on a Montana, involves the main duct-box below the fully-ducted A/C. The workers failed to vacuum the sawdust out of the duct-box, which resulted in the metal tape rolling up into a ball and the cold air going elsewhere rather than into the vent duct-work. I cleaned and re-taped my duct box and it helped a lot. There are two intake vents in the ceiling that had the plastic duct-work collapsing at the entrance. I propped the intake ducts open and now I have outstanding airflow into and out of the main A/C.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:23 PM   #16
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I don't think you should be rubbing the Fantastic fans while trying to cool the place down. The AC is recirculating air inside, not pulling in fresh air. The fans are trying to pull air out. In order to pull air out, air has to be pulled in someplace else. You may be pulling humid air in from outside around slide seals and other places. You want to reduce humidity as much as cool to be comfortable. Try not using the fans and see if the condensation goes away, and the place gets more comfortable inside.
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:14 AM   #17
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Fifth wheels with ducted a/c units will work with wall thermostat(s). If you have two switches/dials on the ceiling head unit, it will not be a ducted a/c unit. Two ducted a/c's are very much preferred., however

I have noted that many of those complaining about a lack of a/c may have some installation issues. Often, the ducting is partially blocked--from bad installation or stopped up ducting. Sometimes the foil tape is partially blocking the ductwork too.

You've also got to clean the filters very often. There's a lot of air going through a small space, and the filters get stopped up easily.

Sorry that ceiling mount RV units are not really serviceable--and not even rechargable.

The industry should be using modern mini-split a/c-heat pumps mounted high on the rear of trailers. They would give superior performance to the roof mounted a/c units and cut 1' off the height of trailers.
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:53 PM   #18
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air flow problems

Sorry been on the road a week or so with less than optimal Internet.

Good replies here.

I still think you have a restricted air flow issue. Unless you're canning with a rolling boil on the stove and 98% RH. The condensation on the ceiling below the ducting is due to excessive DT (Delta Temp). Very low air flow caused increased DT. Proper airflow with that 15-20 Deg. DT generally doesn't sweat except in the most humid conditions. Plus you'll get premature Evap. icing etc.


Rereading your OP, "cycling off allows water to run out" causes me to think the evap. coil is restricted/plugged. The evap. fan causes a negative pressure on the evap. and condensate drain...

You should be able to, with the air filter removed. take a small mirror and flashlight and peek up into (through the rectangular opening) the evaporator housing looking for debris or dirt build up on the fins in that area. Remove anything that doesn't look like shiny fins.

There are wisenheimers who will run a unit without a proper filter...

I've seen a mat of dust, body powder, hair, pet hair, construction debris, tissues, etc. coat /cover this coil causing reduced air flow. The coil can be cleaned with a small stiff bristled brush, although it's not easy. Gently brush with the fins, vertically. Some instances can be further cleaned by spritzing with mild soapy water and a pump up sprayer, or a squirt / pump bottle. The fluid should run into the condensate drain pan and exit the unit... (cleaning that drain if clogged is another chapter, lol)

There is also a divider plate that separates the return air flow from the supply air flow, depending on the register / filter cowling installation . Insure this device is secure and sealed with no air leaks.

Happy trails.
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Old 06-04-2016, 05:12 PM   #19
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Thanks all for the info.

I was able to get all the AC intake vents cleaned. Have been running with the fantastic fans closed and the unit seems to cool fine now.

I did get a digital thermometer to check air temps. Thermostat is set to 74 degrees and air is flowing out at 61 degrees from the main unit. The front bed room AC is flowing out at 58 degrees, but it doesn't have any ducting to go through.

No more condensation with the fantastic vents closed. We are now looking at getting vents pads to insulate that area better. Thermometer shows the fantastic vent area at 86 degrees, while the ceiling is only 78 degrees.
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:11 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRod View Post
Thanks all for the info.



I was able to get all the AC intake vents cleaned. Have been running with the fantastic fans closed and the unit seems to cool fine now.



I did get a digital thermometer to check air temps. Thermostat is set to 74 degrees and air is flowing out at 61 degrees from the main unit. The front bed room AC is flowing out at 58 degrees, but it doesn't have any ducting to go through.



No more condensation with the fantastic vents closed. We are now looking at getting vents pads to insulate that area better. Thermometer shows the fantastic vent area at 86 degrees, while the ceiling is only 78 degrees.

The correct Air Conditioner temperature check is called the Delta. The difference between the temperature of the air going into the Air Conditioner and the temperature of the air coming out. A good functioning unit will have a 20 degree delta.


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