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Old 02-04-2016, 07:21 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by RussOnTheRoad View Post
Thanks, but lease explain why somebody would want 17.5" tires. I think the fivers I've looked at usually advertise 16" tires. Can the larger ones be installed in their place? Wouldn't that require bigger wheels? Can bigger wheels be put on rigs designed for 16" wheels? How much would all this cost?

In terms of the MorRyde IS... I Googled that and the IS appears to stand for independent suspension. I found one thread online where people were discussing this suspension. Most seemed to like it but it was not unanimous. Please tell us why you recommend it. Also, can you say something about how much people might expect to pay to have it added.

Likewise for the pin box--some people liked it others preferred the Trailair. Please tell us about your experiences so we can understand why you made your recommendations.
OK, been gone a few days.

The 17.5" tires and rims or wheels (you need both) will carry about 19,000lbs on 4 wheels. That gets you out of the 100% loaded 100% of the time zone. If you only go to the lake and back a few times a year, may not be a big deal. Also, when backing the 5er in a hard turn, like into a camp spot, stop and look at all 4 tires if you run 16". They will have flexed to some crazy angles. The 17.5" tires and rims are the same diameter as the 16" tires, so there are no clearance issues. They are stiffer and heavier and have around 50% more weight carrying capacity. The cost is around $500 per wheel, depending on tire choice. Spendy but cheaper than repairs from the blow-out.

The MorRyde was discussed above, rubber bushings and fully independent suspension. If you travel a lot it is worthwhile. May have little or no cost on some units where it is an option, but likely around $4,000 aftermarket. While you are at it, may as well get Hydraulic brakes and ditch the electrics.

The MorRyde pin box does not cushion the up/down motion like an air box is supposed to do. It does cushion the fore/aft motion known as chucking as the connection has provision to slide fore and aft. There are other solutions, but the MorRyde works to minimize the chucking. We had the Trailair and the wife was quite unhappy with the ride, and has never said a word after the replacement with the MorRyde.

All of the above assumes you are going to put serious miles on the trailer. We do in the range of 6,000 to 10,000 miles a year.
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:39 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
Satisfactory climate control----thermostat.
Yes.
Yes.
Sort of.
Yes, sometimes.
Yes/no.
Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
No/maybe/depends on if you believe advertising.
Yes.
Sorry that I can't get as serious as you about these subjects--I believe only personal experience can answer your questions, and that is very subjective--thus the answers don't pertain to everyone's situation.
Joe
No need to apologize, Joe, but do you think there is anyway that somebody can correlate your answers as presented to the questions that appeared earlier in the thread? I asked them and I can't even do that.
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:42 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Terry Jay View Post
OK, been gone a few days.

The 17.5" tires and rims or wheels (you need both) will carry about 19,000lbs on 4 wheels. That gets you out of the 100% loaded 100% of the time zone. If you only go to the lake and back a few times a year, may not be a big deal. Also, when backing the 5er in a hard turn, like into a camp spot, stop and look at all 4 tires if you run 16". They will have flexed to some crazy angles. The 17.5" tires and rims are the same diameter as the 16" tires, so there are no clearance issues. They are stiffer and heavier and have around 50% more weight carrying capacity. The cost is around $500 per wheel, depending on tire choice. Spendy but cheaper than repairs from the blow-out.

The MorRyde was discussed above, rubber bushings and fully independent suspension. If you travel a lot it is worthwhile. May have little or no cost on some units where it is an option, but likely around $4,000 aftermarket. While you are at it, may as well get Hydraulic brakes and ditch the electrics.

The MorRyde pin box does not cushion the up/down motion like an air box is supposed to do. It does cushion the fore/aft motion known as chucking as the connection has provision to slide fore and aft. There are other solutions, but the MorRyde works to minimize the chucking. We had the Trailair and the wife was quite unhappy with the ride, and has never said a word after the replacement with the MorRyde.

All of the above assumes you are going to put serious miles on the trailer. We do in the range of 6,000 to 10,000 miles a year.
Very informative and useful information. Thank you!
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Old 02-05-2016, 05:49 AM   #32
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"AWNING LIGHTS (we were told when ordering that these came standard. Someone must have forgot to put them on...) "

They were on our 2016 MobileSuites build sheet as "specials" meaning you had to check the box.
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Old 02-05-2016, 05:51 AM   #33
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I/S has no springs, axles, shackles, shackle bolts to wear out and break. Ever looked at the force on the springs, shackles, etc in a hard turn? There is a ton of stress on them. I/S well worth it.
The MorRyde IS puts ALL other RV suspensions to shame! Pic of my MS on the production line.

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Old 02-05-2016, 03:59 PM   #34
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Sweet.
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Old 02-05-2016, 04:19 PM   #35
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What amazes me about the IS is the use of rubber blocks molded between two steel plates in shear, that carries the weight of each suspended wheel. I don't think there is any less stress on an IS system compared to a full axle system in a tight radius turn. MHO

CLIFF
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Old 02-05-2016, 04:45 PM   #36
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What amazes me about the IS is the use of rubber blocks molded between two steel plates in shear, that carries the weight of each suspended wheel. I don't think there is any less stress on an IS system compared to a full axle system in a tight radius turn. MHO

CLIFF
I agree, stress will be the same or even worse since there is less 'give' to the system to relieve the stress. But in 7 years of ownership I had no problems except the rubber was really cracking. Sent pics to Mor/ride and they were super responsive. OTOH, I wanted to have my dealer move the rubber shear plates to a different set of holes for more tire clearance and Mor/ride couldn't talk them thru it. So, IF service does become necessary, the shop in the next town may not be able to help
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Old 02-05-2016, 05:29 PM   #37
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MorRyde IS is a great system. But if you need service, your options are limited. Traditional springs and shackles can be serviced most anywhere. I opted for traditional suspension over IS when I ordered my Excel. I am happy with my decision.
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:01 PM   #38
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I have had them all and the IS is FAR beyond the rest.
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:25 PM   #39
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The KISS principal is very important. Any added options will not result in unit trading value. We keep our units for up to 15 years and simplicity works for us. Anymore is just more to fail. I apply it to my Truck also and it's paid for.
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:13 AM   #40
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Some things just come down to personal taste, like residential fridge vs RV fridge and auto leveling systems which I consider frivolous.
I stopped by MorRyde in Elkhart IN for their pinbox and equalizers (appointment). They have an overnight facility for about 6 RVs. Almost everyone else was there for the IS suspension and disk brakes which is about $5000 installed after the fact. There was one unit from a factory that was getting the suspension installed as an option. One guy had traded his unit while in route and was getting the IS installed on the brand new unit instead of the 3 year old unit he had traded in. So I would say that IS is very desirable.
For me, the MorRyde pinbox was a huge ride improvement over the solid OEM pinbox.
Necessities for my next fiver are the TV across from the viewing area and good insulation with dual pane windows. If the DW insists on a residential refrigerator, I will insist on 4 2GC batteries and 400-600 watts of solar.
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:53 PM   #41
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We are full time and a residential fridge is sweet. Our DRV had a Dometic fridge and we hated it. Our current unit, Teton, has a residential. Was a requirement for our current unit when shopping.
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:51 PM   #42
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... If the DW insists on a residential refrigerator, I will insist on 4 2GC batteries and 400-600 watts of solar.
I don't quite understand your abbreviations about the batteries. Please spell that out. Thanks.
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