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Old 02-12-2016, 06:46 PM   #57
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We were brutal with model selection. We wanted our first 5er to be our last. With that in mind the specs were set.

Had to be less than 35' LOA to be able to get into SP, NP & NFS CGs.
Had to have large freshwater capacity. >80gal. That eliminated a whole bunch from the list.
Had to be better than average build quality. That cut a bunch more from the herd.
Had to have a large galley. An island or "L" shape with loads of work area. The DW is a foodie & does full meals. The microwave is where the bread is stored. Hardly used.

Just on those few 'must haves' the field was cut to less than 6 possible models between the builders Alpenlite, Mobile Suite & Carriage. That was the easy part.

The hard part was finding one of those models lightly used. It also meant being prepared to travel for the right unit. That took daily scouring of the internet ready to pounce on the right unit when it showed up.

It did. That was late 2006. Since then we have seen lots of nice rigs but nothing that we would sell our Alpenlite 34RLR for. Right one bought first time.
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:39 AM   #58
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One big thing for us was not having to look across the kitchen to the TV. Entertainment system placement was very important.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:35 AM   #59
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Class A now but we owned 4 5th wheels first. Long story short if I went back to a 5th it would have: 6 pt. auto leveling, fire place for extra ele. heat, single unit washer/dryer, painted to avoid chalking, air bed for comfort, bath with room. This is us and only our last 5th had auto leveling and what a difference setting up especially if it is raining. jmo mark
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:25 PM   #60
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Remember, what ever you choose, you have to tow. We have had a TrailerSaver Hitch for 4-5 years now and will never go back to a solid hitch. What ever your TV hits on the road, transfers back to your RV. If you want to minimize beating your RV up, look into a TrailerSaver Hitch. Get a truck that is large enough not to struggle and is rated higher then you actually need. You'll thank yourself latter. Softwater filter is a must.
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:22 PM   #61
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Remember, what ever you choose, you have to tow. We have had a TrailerSaver Hitch for 4-5 years now and will never go back to a solid hitch. What ever your TV hits on the road, transfers back to your RV. If you want to minimize beating your RV up, look into a TrailerSaver Hitch. Get a truck that is large enough not to struggle and is rated higher then you actually need. You'll thank yourself latter. Softwater filter is a must.
I hadn't heard of that hitch but I look forward to investigating. Thanks for mentioning it.

My thoughts exactly on the truck.

I already have a water softener. One day I had to clean the strainer in the sink faucet of my Class C and out came little white clumps of calcium. I also had to replace the valve in that faucet which might have been necessitated by hard water. That's when I decided to buy a softener.
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:11 AM   #62
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Trl saver is made by Hensly in America. I have had one for 4 yrs and would never go bacl to a standred hitch. I have a BD3 which is 18000 rated. The do make a larger model for bigger rigs . They expensive but relative to the trl that it keeps from getting beat up it on our wonderful roads it is cheap.
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:05 PM   #63
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what say you

Flex-air pin box, shower big enough to turn around in, residential refrigerator, bedside tables (both sides), slide toppers (voice of experience after replacing seals), disc brakes electric over hydraulic instead of may stop electric brakes, no Chinese will-pop tires,
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:05 AM   #64
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Trl saver is made by Hensly in America. I have had one for 4 yrs and would never go bacl to a standred hitch. I have a BD3 which is 18000 rated. The do make a larger model for bigger rigs . They expensive but relative to the trl that it keeps from getting beat up it on our wonderful roads it is cheap.
I found the Hensley web site with info about the Trailer Saver hitches. I'm guessing that's what you mean by Tri saver though I'm uncertain why you're abbreviating it that way (if that's what you're doing).

I can't seem to unravel the meaning of your last sentence. Can you explain what you mean, please?

Yes, these hitches are expensive. The TS3 is $2700!
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:20 AM   #65
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Class A now but we owned 4 5th wheels first. Long story short if I went back to a 5th it would have: 6 pt. auto leveling, fire place for extra ele. heat, single unit washer/dryer, painted to avoid chalking, air bed for comfort, bath with room. This is us and only our last 5th had auto leveling and what a difference setting up especially if it is raining. jmo mark
Thanks for your comments. Some questions for you: I'm guessing 6 point auto leveling might be more important for longer rigs or those with more flexible frames and that 4 point might be OK for rigs on the smaller size. Do you have any thoughts about this?

On the electic fireplace: I've seen a couple of those and I rather like them even knowing they dont have real flames. There is still something I find comforting about them. That said, I think I would opt to install a catalytic heater instead. Unlike electric fireplaces you can use these when you don't have shore power (or want to run your generator), which for me has been often. When shore power is available a portable electric heater can be used instead of the catalytic or an electric fireplace.

When you say "painted to avoid chalking", what are you referring to?
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:49 AM   #66
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I believe Tri is jacknife's abbreviation for Trailer.

As per portable electric heaters, look at the infrared heaters. Open coil heaters (milk house heaters) burn oxygen up in the RV. Infrared heaters do not.
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:13 PM   #67
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I meant to abreviate Trl for trailer. I didn't review what l wrote before sending . Sometimes hit the wrong letter.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:51 PM   #68
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I believe Tri is jacknife's abbreviation for Trailer.

As per portable electric heaters, look at the infrared heaters. Open coil heaters (milk house heaters) burn oxygen up in the RV. Infrared heaters do not.
I think you're mistaken about open coil heaters. I don't think oxygen is consumed unless something is burned, unless there is a flame. These heaters offer resistence to the current flowing through their coils which causes them to heat. There is no flame.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:43 AM   #69
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Vent-free heaters remove oxygen and add moisture to a room, infrared does not.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:36 PM   #70
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Vent-free heaters remove oxygen and add moisture to a room, infrared does not.
When there is combustion oxygen is consumed and both carbon monoxide and moisture are produced. The term "ventless heater" may refer to catalytic heaters such as Mr. Heater or the Olympian Wave. These do in fact burn propane or another gas (burn = combustion). However, other ventless heaters, those that use electricity such as open coil (milk house), ceramic and infrared heaters do not involve combustion. They do not consume oxygen, create carbon dixiode, carbon monoxide, or water vapor.

Various types of space heaters including those that involve combustion and those that do not (those where air quality is a concern and those where it is not) are discussed on this page from the department of energy:
Portable Heaters | Department of Energy
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