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Old 05-06-2013, 07:24 PM   #15
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You can turn the same angle going forward as backward. It is simple geometry.
Not with my pickups. My '99.5 F-250 5er puller had a turning diameter of 61.11 feet wall to wall. When going forward that's as tight as you can turn, and the trailer is going to follow the truck. You cannot turn tight enough to get cab to trailer contact when going forward. But when backing up you can cut the wheels and the trailer will jackknife into a much smaller turning diameter. Yeah, the front tires have the same angel whether going forward or backward, but the 5er doesn't follow the truck when backing up, and you can jackknife the trailer into a much tighter turn going backward than when going forward. And that much tighter jackknife is what can cause cab to trailer contact on a shortbed pickup.

My 2012 F-150 SuperCrew with 6.5' bed is similar in that I cannot turn sharp enough going forward to result in cab to trailer contact. But put that puppy in reverse and WHAM!
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:32 PM   #16
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Many short bed GM owners report they don't need a sliding hitch. GM short bed trucks have a longer dimension from the back of the cab to the trucks rear axle than Ford or Dodge. If the trailer has notched rounded corners this helps with even more cab/5er corner clearance. A trailer dealer can help you there or someone with the same truck/trailer.

My short bed Dodge requires a sliding hitch. Its a '97 Reese 16K square tube manual slider that has been on two of my short bed Dodge trucks. I keep the rollers and tubes lubed with a dry spray lube. Slide like a hot knife through butter at any angle with full pin weight on the hitch.
I don't use it around gas pumps or city streets however I've found it moves the pin 10" behind the truck rear axles which causes the trailer to react quicker with less steering in put while backing up in tight conditions
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:47 AM   #17
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smoky, you are missing the point. You can jackknife a truck and trailer with a 8 foot bed but that is not the purpose of a slider hitch. It is to stop the contact with the cab and the trailer and only that.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:13 AM   #18
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smoky, you are missing the point. You can jackknife a truck and trailer with a 8 foot bed but that is not the purpose of a slider hitch. It is to stop the contact with the cab and the trailer and only that.
Granted. But you cannot have contact with the cab and trailer when you are going forward with a normal tow vehicle dragging a fifth wheel RV. Maybe with a regular cab shorty or other tow vehicle with extremely short wheelbase, but SuperCabs and CrewCabs with 6.5' bed cannot turn sharp enough to have cab to trailer contact unless the transmission is in reverse gear. It's when you try to back into a jackknife over about 70 that you have cab to trailer contact.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:27 AM   #19
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ok, ok - you are both right.....

jack knifing is bad !
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:37 PM   #20
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I think alot of it has to do with the truck and trailer combination. I have a 2006 GMC Crewcab with a short box. I have a slider but my trailer also has an extended pin box. I can turn as sharp as I want going forward and not even come close to my back glass. I think if I had a conventional pin box I would have a problem going forward and turning sharp. I have not had to use it yet going in reverse but where I have camped so far there is not much of an angle backing in. I am glad I purchased it, just in case I need it. As far as manual versus automatic. I would not mind getting out to disengauge the slide and enguage it to reverse. I have praticed the manuver and for peace of mind it would not bother me at all to block the wheels - disenguage the slider from drive position - pull forward and enguage it for reverse manuvers and unblock the wheels. There is also an auto lock/unlock box that you can install on slider handle where is bolts to the crossover part of the lever. You can lock/unlock right from your cab and use the trailer manual brake switch to pull forward while stopping the trailer from moving. Auto slider is good I guess but not worth the money (for me anyway).
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:31 PM   #21
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It depends on the fiver and the TV as to whether you need a slider or not. A manual slider if you are concerned, but if you have a fiver with the "Max Turn" cutaways and extended pin box, you probably don't need a slider with a 6.5' bed. I have a 5'7" bed and use a Reese Sidewinder to solve the problem.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:41 AM   #22
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Smokey, I have a 2008 Chevy 2500hd with a "standard" box which is 6 foot 6 inches long, and if I did not have a slider hitch I would hit the front of the trailer going forward, pure and simple, end of story.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:39 PM   #23
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:50 PM   #24
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Tugboat ,I use an ATV winch mounted above my garage door to pick up my Pullright just as you did. But I pick up the hitch section then pull the rails out after. I put my hitch on a rolling cart so I can move it around in my garage. Works great.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:26 PM   #25
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I have some experience with a 6.5' box and a fiver. We have a Canadian built DSP 2 position slider that is virtually impossible to move with the trailer hooked up. DW was turning around in a tight spot and the cab made contact with the trailer. 1200 bucks later we were on our way. We will be replacing the hitch with the trailer, the new one will be a slider unless the trailer corners are cut away.
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:33 AM   #26
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Tugboat and Blacksmith, I do something similar but without the winch. I get help from a friend but first I remove the hitch mechanism from the yoke and then just carry the base minus the slides and then the slides. I have managed to get the whole thing out by myself onto a wheel barrel with two wheels but it was a giant pain in the a$$ (and back).
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:55 AM   #27
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I lower it on a furniture dolly and put it under my work bench.
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