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Old 07-30-2012, 11:07 PM   #1
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Adding a second AC

Have a 36 foot chaparral by coachman with one ac in the living area. It is wired for a second ac in the bedroom. My current ac is roof ducted and am wondering if I should tie the second ac into the duct work or just get the unducted model. Thanks for the comments.
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:36 PM   #2
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Our second a/c is unducted and so was our previous 5er and they both worked great. Get a 12k or 15k.
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:43 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response. As I am planning on getting a 15000 to match the size of the one I have now. Then I should be able to hang meat in the rv. LOL thumb!
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:56 PM   #4
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Why would you do anything but go with a ducted? If it's anything like our Dutch Star DP you've have to cut through the ducting and the interior ceiling panel.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:24 AM   #5
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The ducting and wiring are already ran to were the second ac will be placed as a second ac was a option for that rv original owner opted. Ot to get it. Just wonder which would cool my current set up more affectively. Being that I spend most off my time in the bedroom because I use rv for work and most of the time I am on nights.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:25 AM   #6
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No cutting involved just removing the skylight in the bedroom.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BartLee View Post
No cutting involved just removing the skylight in the bedroom.
How does the ducting work? On our DSDP's there are two ducts that run fore and aft. One for return air and the other for cool or warm (we have heat pumps).
By "skylight" do you mean a standard 14" X 14" vent?
If there's no duct work in the ceiling under the "skylight" then how would you connect to the duct?
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:45 AM   #8
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My ac now the return is on the unit itself. One duct runs aft with 3 vents and one runs forward with 4 vents. I have 4 vents in living area and 3 in bedroom the last duct forward stops right at the the vent in the bedroom with a cap type plug on the end. Yes it is a vent not a skylight sorry. The electric connections are in a wall type box about 1 inch from the edge of vent.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:47 AM   #9
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I and I do not have a heat pump just the furnace. I am thinking about getting the unit with the heat strip in it just to help heat it in the winter when I am working up north. As winters in the south where I live are not very. Old at all and the furnace does a great job keeping it warm.
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:01 PM   #10
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You can always get a Coleman-Mach with the "Chill Grill" installed. Then you can have the best of a ducted AC and a direct discharge unit:

Airxcel | RV Products Accessories
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:15 PM   #11
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Probably won't be able to connect to the ductwork but a regular air con should work. I'd forget the heat strips. A 1500 watt heater will do much better. Have had heat strips in one RV, they just don't put out much heat.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #12
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Agree on the portable ceramic type heater for supplemental warmth in the bedroom..
we uses the fireplace in the living room as needed - like the electric hear much better than propane...

on the ac,
consider the noise factor as the br unit is loud !
we turn it on low to be able to watch tv in bed...

we do have ducted in the l.r., but not knowing any better it's not ducted in the bedroom.

it's a 13.5 in br as it is a MUCH smaller space and freezes u out as is...
seems to cool the area off much quicker too given that it is cooling the air and not the roof, the ducting, etc...

in the 100+ southern heat, most times we will open the lr ac's downdraft to cool the air off quicker, then switch it to ducting after the unit is cooled because it just takes too long to cool otherwise, even with both units going full blast...

the br air requires a fan to move the air to the lr and it does not do it effeciently so a larger unit in the br may not be necessary...

good luck..
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