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Old 01-16-2005, 10:40 PM   #1
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I would like to raise the 5er in my signature an inch or two. Price is an object. Welding new perches/flip would be cheap, but would raise too much (around 7").

Anyone chime in about other ways?

Extending shackles: I know a welder I trust, but it seems like a lot of potential for something to be misaligned?

Air shocks/load levelers? I have shock mounts, but don't see any air shocks listed for RV's. Cross ref by knowing static lenght, stroke, and mount type? Anyone done this?

Add-a-leaf or helper springs? Trailer would be lowered by thickness of the leaf, so the change in arc would have to be significant...

Air bags are probably beyond what I want to spend.

Any advise or other ideas?
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:40 PM   #2
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I would like to raise the 5er in my signature an inch or two. Price is an object. Welding new perches/flip would be cheap, but would raise too much (around 7").

Anyone chime in about other ways?

Extending shackles: I know a welder I trust, but it seems like a lot of potential for something to be misaligned?

Air shocks/load levelers? I have shock mounts, but don't see any air shocks listed for RV's. Cross ref by knowing static lenght, stroke, and mount type? Anyone done this?

Add-a-leaf or helper springs? Trailer would be lowered by thickness of the leaf, so the change in arc would have to be significant...

Air bags are probably beyond what I want to spend.

Any advise or other ideas?
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:07 AM   #3
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Have you considered lowering your truck? If it's a 4WD, you can lower it by about 1.5" by removing the rear axle spacers. See how at http://www.klenger.net/dodge/lowerin...d/slide01.html.
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:28 AM   #4
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I have heard about lowing the truck by removing the spacers.

But the articles I read said that the truck's drive train, ( drive shaft, motor mounts, rear axle canted up, etc ) had to be re-aligned or it would bind up as the drive shaft spun..

Do you know anything about this Ken ? Is there any truth to that or is someone just blowing hot air ?

I know absolutely nothing about it. Thats why I'm asking,,,
I have the same problem and sometime next summer I will have to make some type of correction on my setup..

Thanks,
John
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Old 01-17-2005, 11:38 AM   #5
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I have a 2004 Dodge RAM 2500 4x4. I pulled one of the spacers out and placed it on top of the springs lowering my truck 1-1/2".

The drive shaft has play built-in via the coupler that slides over the transmission output shaft. The drive shaft to differential angle is better. The shocks have enough travel.

I have 25,000 miles on the truck with over 10,000 towing the 5th wheel trailer.

I did adjust the headlights a little. Placed marks on the wall before lowering.

Works for me!
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:28 PM   #6
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Try 16 inch tires on the RV. It is nice because you now have four spare tires that are the same size as your tow vehicle.
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Old 01-17-2005, 08:56 PM   #7
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John: I considered your concerns before I made the mod. After looling at the design of the drive train, I determined that the drive shaft coupling would have to have enough travel to allow the axle to "bottom out" on the rubber bumper on the axle shaft. All I did by removing the spacer is shorten the distance from the empty position and the fully (over) loaded position. Dodge had a TSB for the 2nd gen trucks that accomplished much the same thing.
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:16 AM   #8
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Hi Jumbo Jet: John here I have a old goat 4x4 as You just a 2003 I am real high in the back I can get at the back end in My shop on the floor My question is this can I do this with out a hoist or should it be in the air and can You send a pic.of your springs to help Me know what I would be changing I also need to know what way You would proceed with the job as to blocking ,jacking etc.I have a shop to work in and most tools but like to have a idea before I start a job.I have air bags will they make a difference? Lots of questions Hope You can Help and also I thank You for Your time in advance.I always find ask a man that has done a job and You ask the right man.Thanks John <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jumbo Jet:
I have a 2004 Dodge RAM 2500 4x4. I pulled one of the spacers out and placed it on top of the springs lowering my truck 1-1/2".

The drive shaft has play built-in via the coupler that slides over the transmission output shaft. The drive shaft to differential angle is better. The shocks have enough travel.

I have 25,000 miles on the truck with over 10,000 towing the 5th wheel trailer.

I did adjust the headlights a little. Placed marks on the wall before lowering.

Works for me! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:24 AM   #9
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HI Ken;John here I can not open the link on lowering the truck can You e-mail it to Me at johnmc@kent.net when You have time.I want to lower My old goat I have air bags on mine will that matter? Thanks in advance John <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ken Lenger:
Have you considered lowering your truck? If it's a 4WD, you can lower it by about 1.5" by removing the rear axle spacers. See how at http://www.klenger.net/dodge/lowerin...d/slide01.html. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 01-18-2005, 09:37 AM   #10
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Thanks all for the replies.

I'm a little hesitant to lower the back of the truck... With the 5er hooked up, the pin weight pretty much levels the pickup out, and I guess I would prefer not having it any lower.

I thought about going to bigger tires or 16" rims, but I recently put new modular 15's on it (had a couple of cracked, under rated wagon wheels on it, along with a couple of beat modulars when I bought it). In the end,new wheels and tires may be the cheapest, though...

I wonder if I did the axle flip, if I could also drill higher holes in the shackle hangers to offset some of the lift?

I suppose I could try the axle flip, and if I decided it rode too high or didn't handle well in the wind, it would be pretty easy to put back?

Any other thoughts or ideas?
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Old 01-20-2005, 06:16 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by CyberVet65:
Try 16 inch tires on the RV. It is nice because you now have four spare tires that are the same size as your tow vehicle.
Chet <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

This is a BIG No NO. The tires on the trailer should be TT tires and are NOT designed to work the same as tires on the truck. Not only that those of us with 03 and newer Rams have 17" tires anyway

Are you sure that the axels have be placed at there lowest point on the trailer???
Check with your local dealer that sales your style trailer and see what they are doing to fix the problem for their customers
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Old 01-20-2005, 06:27 AM   #12
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SuperGewl, Actually if you look at some of the bigger trailers, they come from the factory with LT type tires. I used to work for a dealer and whenever we needed to sell tires (we always recommended the customer take the trailer to a tire shop as we would just take them to the tire shop) the tire shop would offer either a ST tire if it was available in that size or option a LT tire in the same size. The LT tire was significantly cheaper and we were told that they would work just as well. I have run LT tires on all my trailers for years without any problems (knock on wood). Just my opinion. John
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Old 01-20-2005, 06:38 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by SuperGewl:
This is a _BIG_ No NO. The tires on the trailer should be TT tires and are NOT designed to work the same as tires on the truck. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Please take a look at the Michelin XPS Rib website. Michelin specifically recommends this tire as ".... an ideal choice for commercial trailers because of low rolling resistance (for better fuel economy), a long-wear rib tread design and retreadability. These tires also have the strength of a reinforced all-steel construction for lasting durability."

If you click on the Sizes and Specs option, you will note that many of these are LT tires - none are ST. The Michelin XPS Ribs have a well-earned reputation as a tire that has solved tread separation and other problems that RVers have experiences with other brands of tires (yes, some of which were ST rated).

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Old 01-20-2005, 10:49 AM   #14
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Now for all of you nawsayers about trailer tires. There is a big difference between them and regular car or truck tires. The problem with using regualr car/truck tires on a TT is that the tires are NOT deisgned to slide. Car/truck tires are designed to grip and most do it well. TT tires are designed to slide because the TT is being pulled and does NOT take the same path as the pulling vehichle.
I'm not saying that some trailers don't use car/truck tires, but yo will notice they are of special design as some of yo have even stated.
These are normally used on heavier TT do to the heavy loads they will be carrying.
Remember there are always some exceptions to every rule.

OK I'm off my soap box now.
So even as I stated before, you can't put 16'" tires on a 03 or newer Dodge Ram because they use 17" tires anyway
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