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Old 12-13-2015, 07:22 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
NO, it's the fore and aft tugging between the TV and the RV.

Hitch slop is just hitch slop!
I agree. I just changed from one fiver to the one in my signature. Used same Reese hitch for both. Chucking with first fiver was so bad I added shocks to reduce it. Chucking is so greatly reduced with the one I am dragging behind me now, it is barely noticeable. Wife also can readily tell the difference.

As has been stated earlier, the whole chucking thing is hard to get a handle on and is easy to over-simplify. I think it has to do with the relationship between the movement of the TV in relationship to the RV, in sync/out of sync. I don't know, but all fivers don't chuck or chuck to equal magnitudes.

Most of us could probably make more definitive statements, but it would take a test track so we were all running on the same terrain, along with a number of trucks and RVs to make some valid generalizations (weights and length relationships, etc).

My two cents,

Steve
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:39 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by C130 View Post
It's great the Anderson owners are happy and that's what matters. But, I watched the video from Anderson and I'm not impressed. I'm sure it does what it's designed to do very well and it's great that it's lightweight. I'm not saying anything negative about it and I've never used one. But, the fact is all of the forces have to be transferred somewhere and it's either the truck or the trailer. After owning three different type hitches I'm convinced it's much better to have something to absorb some of the movement. I went with the Hensley TS3 and besides the weight I don't think this type of hitch can be beat. One of the air ride or a Mor/Ryde type pin boxes would also help do the same thing. I have both the air ride hitch and a pin box that absorbs the fore/aft movement. I just think it's much better for the truck and especially the trailer. I can feel the bumps in my truck but I hardly ever feel a thing when the trailer hits the same bumps. It's pretty amazing seeing how much movement there is towing.
You bring up the shocks a fiver takes going down the road, which I find to be an interesting point. You do not have to go far to find examples of sidewall cracks at the leading edge of the front bedroom slide or ripples in sidewalls in relatively new fifth wheels. It would be interesting to know how much these cracks are terrain dependent. There are some roadways that hammer the crap out of the truck and fifth wheel running conventional hitches. It would be interesting to see someone run long term tests to see what impact road surfaces have on fivers and whether hitch type makes a difference.

Always more questions than answers.

Steve
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:48 AM   #73
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Correct me if I am wrong but I do believe fore and aft tugging is from accelerating and braking and slop in the hitch is slop in the hitch ( meaning between tv & rv )
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:56 AM   #74
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But some combinations are chucking it seems virtually all the time as they go down the road. Not just when accelerating or braking is my thought,

Steve
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:29 AM   #75
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I think this video answers questions about hitch caused chucking.
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Old 12-13-2015, 03:12 PM   #76
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Andersen fifth wheel hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Fixit View Post
You bring up the shocks a fiver takes going down the road, which I find to be an interesting point. You do not have to go far to find examples of sidewall cracks at the leading edge of the front bedroom slide or ripples in sidewalls in relatively new fifth wheels. It would be interesting to know how much these cracks are terrain dependent. There are some roadways that hammer the crap out of the truck and fifth wheel running conventional hitches. It would be interesting to see someone run long term tests to see what impact road surfaces have on fivers and whether hitch type makes a difference.



Always more questions than answers.



Steve

I picked up our 385TH in Huntsville, Alabama and the interstate was terrible on the way back to the Houston area. I couldn't believe the shape the interstate was in and we towed our previous toy hauler up to East Tennessee and back in June and roads were terrible also in certain areas. Our previous Fuzion had a standard pin box but I had the TS3. Now I have the TS3 paired with a Trail Air Rota-Flex pin box and I don't think it could get any better towing wise. I videotaped the TS3 towing and it's pretty cool seeing how movement it absorbs while not feeling any of it in the truck. I have no proof but personally I believe it's much better for the trailer.

I'm sure the Anderson hitch is very well made and I definitely like the fact it's very light. A friend of mine tows a 43 foot 5th wheel and he just bought the aluminum version of the Anderson hitch to go in his new F450. I haven't talked to him since he installed it but I'm interested in his opinion. I'm just set on an air ride hitch now after using one, they really make for a smooth tow.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:04 PM   #77
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The heavier the tow unit is the more effect it will have on tow vehicle. Physics . This is what causes chucking.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:52 PM   #78
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I do not think weight alone makes it predictable, but agree it is one of the factors. My heavier fiver chucks way less than my lighter one. I know this is just anecdotal, but just wanted to point out I think that are multiple factors that cause it.

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Old 12-13-2015, 05:13 PM   #79
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When I towed with the dually our Teton was 3 times the weight of our truck. Any movement in the Teton would be transmitted to truck. Now on a smooth road it was non existence. But we all know how smooth our roads are. Logic says the better, tighter hitch hook up you have the worse it will be. Slop would actually lessen chucking. That is why the MorRide pin box with the for and apt movement helps.
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Old 12-14-2015, 06:44 AM   #80
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I think there has been some concern expressed over the Andersen Ultimate being inflexible and damaging the TV or fiver from "chucking" which Andersen users say it actually reduces. If you think about it, all standard fifth wheel hitches are somewhat inflexible with tilting of the head being the only movement. And Andersen uses the ball for that.
You can change your pin box to a cushioned type to resolve that concern. Switching from a solid to a MorRyde pin box has been a huge benefit to my towing experience. My Reese 16K has some hard miles on it and prevented a tip over when I dropped the passenger side wheels off the shoulder once. I plan to replace it in the coming spring with the Andersen Ultimate and end the struggle of installing and removing the hitch for good. I even dropped the Reese once and narrowly missed being a cripple in my golden years as it glanced off my foot.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:39 PM   #81
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Okay, I set up the Andersen and hooked up the trailer by myself for the first time yesterday. I did have "chucking" when I stopped or pulled off from a stop. I didn't have any of this first time I towed after the dealer installed the hitch and hooked up the trailer so, when the weather gets a little better, I'm going to go through the complete setup again. I was in a bit of a hurry setting and hooking up because I was trying to get the trailer to the DMV before work. I'll keep you posted...
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:39 PM   #82
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Be sure to re-torque the 50 ft-lb top bolt particularly after your first hook up. The hitch will settle and lose torque. After that you should be home free.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:40 PM   #83
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Be sure to re-torque the 50 ft-lb top bolt particularly after your first hook up. The hitch will settle and lose torque. After that you should be home free.

Yeah, I did that one and the two on the front but I am using a Harbor Freight torque wrench. May ask for a Craftsman for Christmas.
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:15 AM   #84
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............ May ask for a Craftsman for Christmas.
If it's a basic beam wrench, they are fine. The Craftsman clickers have a problem and are now made in that far eastern country known for less then stellar tools. I went through two brand new ones plus trying another at the tool counter before demanding a store credit for something else. I bought a new Wright through eBay which has been right on the money. This one was cheap, but they are not an inexpensive tool. http://www.wrighttool.com/pub/default.asp?catalog=0&title2=Torque+Wrenches+%26+T ools&oid={D9BD85B9-FF1F-11D3-8B5D-00A0C942294E}
Then there are $nap-ons (which may be made by Wright)
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