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Old 02-11-2012, 09:17 PM   #1
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Question automatic slider hitches

any thoughts(pros or cons) on auto slide hitches?
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:43 AM   #2
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My only experience is with the SuperGlide 12K hitch for my really short bed (5-1/2') F150. Works perfectly and I could do a 90 degree turn if I had to, but, the removable hitch is VERY heavy and is expensive compared to manuals and I think a couple of other sliders. It seems very well built so I can only say good things about.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:02 AM   #3
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I am thinking of getting the ISR Series Super Glide #2700 (15K). My rig weights 11900. Do you think the 12K would suffice, or would you bump it up to the (15K) I should allow for the truck weight as well? Right? And do all the SuperGlides come with the removable option, or do you have to purchase a certain model to be able to pull it out of the bed of the truck when you are not using it?
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:13 AM   #4
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12K would suffice, but I personally like to have more buffer. I would go with the 15K.

As far as I know, they all are able to be removed.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:37 AM   #5
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I have the Superglide 18K 4400 with the SuperRails. I love it. I can easily make 90 degree turns with my trailer. After talking to the tech at Pullrite, I opted to go with the larger 18K hitch. There wasn't that much difference in price. Maybe in five or ten years I'll get a new truck and trailer. If I do I'll go with a 1 ton truck and most likely a heavier trailer. I'll just need to get new rails for the new truck and move the hitch over.

I got the hitch and rails from Dyers RV. Best price I could find. I ordered on a Friday morning and it arrived truck freight Monday afternoon. I was expecting it to take weeks for delivery.

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Old 02-19-2012, 07:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by first5thwheel View Post
I am thinking of getting the ISR Series Super Glide #2700 (15K). My rig weights 11900. Do you think the 12K would suffice, or would you bump it up to the (15K) I should allow for the truck weight as well? Right? And do all the SuperGlides come with the removable option, or do you have to purchase a certain model to be able to pull it out of the bed of the truck when you are not using it?
Your rig is so close to 12K that if I were you, I would go with the 15K. Major difference between the 12K and 15K is the 12K slides almost 22", and the 15K is about 16" as I recall. I think the reason for that is the 12K is designed for the really short beds, like my F150 (5.5') and I definitely need the greater range to turn 90 degrees, where the 15K is designed for 6' or longer beds with F250/350 trucks that can pull more than 12K. I'm fairly sure all the SGs are removable, but check their website for accurate info; it's very informative.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:14 PM   #7
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I have the 15K and it works really good. As far as removing, yeah ... it can be done, I removed mine by myself, but there was no way to put it back in the truck without help. And, actually getting it back in place was tricky. But I would never even think about pulling without it.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:56 AM   #8
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I have the 16k mounted on the b and w turn over ball adapter kit. I have been very happy with this hitch. It was well worth the money. As far as getting it out, I went to harbor freight and bought an 800 pound electric lift and mounted it to the cieling of the garage. Total cost was around 100 dollars with coupons. I hoist the hitch into the air, and back the truck under. the hitch lowers right into the gooseneck and drops onto the super rail in the back. I can get the hitch in and out by myself in about 5 minutes. If anyone really wants to see I can take some pictures or make a video. Also, don't believe what youj hear about it being hard to hitch and unhitch. You just have tobe within 16 degrees of center. I highly reccomend this hitch over a manual slider. You don't want to find out that your manual slider is a pain when you have the campground road shut down and everyone is watching.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:27 PM   #9
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I have the 15K and it works really good. As far as removing, yeah ... it can be done, I removed mine by myself, but there was no way to put it back in the truck without help. And, actually getting it back in place was tricky. But I would never even think about pulling without it.
I have the 16K Pulrite slide so I set up a small crane in the garage to lift it. It was not as expensive as you may think. I made up some dolly whells from Home Depot and fixed them to 2 4x2s so I could wheel it around the garage. I swing the crane chain and hook chain up to the door opener to keep it out of the way for everyday use. Keeps it clean when not in use and easy to tak eout when you need the truck bed
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:42 AM   #10
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My brother had the 24k Pull-Rite. For one reason or the other it failed....He lost the the trailer on a slow turn right after getting off the highway. Pull-Rite claims you must use their grease, and only their's.???? The main bearing did something called "gilding" (not sure if I spelled it right). Basically the bearing disintegrated.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:52 AM   #11
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If a manufacturer specifies that you have to use their grease, they must provide that grease free!!! That case has been heard in court many times and always rules the same.
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:18 PM   #12
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Now use WD40 to lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superslif View Post
My brother had the 24k Pull-Rite. For one reason or the other it failed....He lost the the trailer on a slow turn right after getting off the highway. Pull-Rite claims you must use their grease, and only their's.???? The main bearing did something called "gilding" (not sure if I spelled it right). Basically the bearing disintegrated.
I only got my hitch last fall, so maybe they've changed their procedures. My hitch manual now specifies to use WD40, which of course can be found just about everywhere.

BTW, Pull-Rite recommends using the WD40 "Everyday", so maybe what happened was due to non lubrication.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:09 PM   #13
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My brother had the 24k Pull-Rite. For one reason or the other it failed....He lost the the trailer on a slow turn right after getting off the highway. Pull-Rite claims you must use their grease, and only their's.???? The main bearing did something called "gilding" (not sure if I spelled it right). Basically the bearing disintegrated.
I don't know about the 24K, but I think the operating mechanism is similar to my 12K. PR did change their lube requirements once or twice over the past five years. I now have to use spray-on White Lithium grease on the operating rails, but it does not have to be a PR product. As the sliding head of the hitch transits over the two rails, if there is not enough grease (or whatever is required), the two metal parts can actually momentarily weld to each other, which is called "galling." I would guess under that scenario, a catastrophic failure could occur. My 12K unit requires a spray of grease each day of use, so it's apparently very important to properly maintain them.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:14 PM   #14
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momentarily weld to each other, which is called "galling
Thanx that was the word I was thinking of.

My brother owns a machine shop, so grease is in his blood. If you saw the pictures of the mangled 24k hitch, you wouldn't believe how bent up a $4,000+ investment can become. Has at least 5k damage to his RV....

The 24k hitch weighs in at over 350lbs. He just uses a tow-motor to lay it in the bed.
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