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Nick1234 · 08-05-2017, 09:14 AM

The repacking of my bearings is now complete. I followed Dexters instructions (written and video). I wiggled the tires to check for any play, or movement. 3 have no play, but one of them has very little, but some movement. Should I disassemble and reset per Dexter instructions, or, is this not a big deal?

LJowdy · 08-05-2017, 09:16 AM

I'd probably remove the dust cap and cotter key then tighten the nut a quarter turn until the side play disappears

Loren Rice · 08-05-2017, 09:24 AM

I just did a bearing repack. after a lot of research , here is what I learned and did.

When your bearing are repacked and every thing is back on spindle, I learned to torque the nut to 150 ft pounds all the while rotating the wheel. Now you loosen the nut and torque to 50 ft. pounds and leave it there. (again this is done while a helper rotates wheel.), put in Kotter key and you are done. If key doesn't quite match a hole I moved nut toward loose but in my case is was a very slight movement .

With this method you won't have loose wheels which cause your disc brakes to squeak some times while driving straight down the road. went through this on another motor home.

Nick1234 · 08-05-2017, 09:30 AM

The Dexter manual, and video state to tighten the nut with hand pressure equal to 50 ftlbs. Then loosen nut and re tighten snug. I have drum breaks.

Nick1234 · 08-05-2017, 09:38 AM

This is from the Dexter manual:

For E-Z Lube® axles using the new nut retainer:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately
50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not
rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined at on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly.
4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.
5. Reinstall grease cap

monkey · 08-05-2017, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick1234

This is from the Dexter manual:

For E-Z Lube® axles using the new nut retainer:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately
50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not
rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined at on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly.
4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.
5. Reinstall grease cap

YES,,, I Totally agree !!! Any wheel bearings Do NOT tighten 50 ft lbs !!!! Finger tight after seating like above......

glennwest · 08-06-2017, 08:57 AM

Question, do you add additional grease? Just put disk brake upgrade on my Teton. Lot of area without grease just packing bearings.

monkey · 08-06-2017, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glennwest

Question, do you add additional grease? Just put disk brake upgrade on my Teton. Lot of area without grease just packing bearings.

No extra grease... Just pack the bearings properly and you are good... Extra grease will just absorb/hold heat....

Loren Rice · 08-07-2017, 12:20 AM

Guess I may have miss understood what kind of axel you are working on. I gave advice based on a full sized diesel motorhome front axel.

But if you are talking a 5th wheel trailer axel my advice is wrong and others are probable closer to right.

If your axel has ball bearings the nut is usually just finger tight after seating.

But if there are tapered roller bearings (on trailer sized axel) then torqueing to 50 ft pounds and then backing off to a lesser preload is correct. Tapered rollers always do have some preload torque so hope you discover the correct number.
So when finished you should have no wiggle. If you do then earlier advice is probably right on and that is to tighten it a bit more.

Joe11 · 08-07-2017, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkey

No extra grease... Just pack the bearings properly and you are good... Extra grease will just absorb/hold heat....

Also be make sure to use correct grease. Lippert has had problems in the factory by adding additional grease through the zero fitting and that grease was too thin and getting beyond the seal contaminating braking components.

Nick1234 · 08-07-2017, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe11

Also be make sure to use correct grease. Lippert has had problems in the factory by adding additional grease through the zero fitting and that grease was too thin and getting beyond the seal contaminating braking components.

Actually, these are Dexter axles. Dexter has a cross reference table that suggests recommended greases. I purchased one of the greases that was on the list.

IC2 · 08-08-2017, 01:15 PM

Do your wheel bearings exactly how Dexter recommends that it be done. There is no cotter pin but there is a retainer which holds the nut in place. It can be difficult to remove then reinstall but if you do it carefully, it works just fine. As far as grease - any Tractor Supply, NAPA, Carquest, etc,etc will have one to the Dexter spec. I'm using Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease #2. Assuming that you have EZ Lube axles - be aware that these can be a problem if not lubed (filled) correctly. Wheel off the ground, rotated and filled only via a hand pump grease gun. These EZ Lube axles still don't take the place of a 12,000 mile disassembly,cleaning, inspection and relubing by hand. Time period - Dexter's is pretty conservative at 12 months. The Dexter OEM bearings are usually no-name Chinese bearings and many, including me have had problems with life expectancy, mine showing over temp at about 3-4000 miles from new. 10-36 seals (5200 & 6000 pound axles) from etrailer are a LOT less expensive and in over 40,000 miles with two 5ers, nary a problem for me.

Good luck - and have lots of paper towels and nitrile gloves handy as it is a really grungy yearly project for me

R2millers · 08-08-2017, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkey

No extra grease... Just pack the bearings properly and you are good... Extra grease will just absorb/hold heat....

Monkey,
Just to clarify... It appears that he has e-z lube grease fittings, which will require additional grease after assembly, thru the front zerk fitting.

On my e-z lube bearing, I drive my trailer 15-20 minutes to heat up the assembly before lubing. With the hubs around 90-95 degrees, the chance of getting grease into those hard to reach areas without blowing a rear seal improves. Much easier to be safe then blow out a seal.

Been there, done that.

Nick1234 · 08-08-2017, 10:34 PM

I do have the Dexter Ezlube feature. However, I don't plan on using it. I don't want to chance blowing the seal and ruining the breaks. Therefore, I will perform the bearing repack every 12 months.