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Old 02-20-2012, 06:18 PM   #1
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Best place to tap gas for Olympic Wave Heater?

I want to tap into my 2008 Wildcat's 24RL low pressure LP gas system so I can use the low pressure from my 30# cylinders, but I want to be able to remove the flex-line to the Wave Heater so the 5er can be used w/ out the heater as well.



It seems the heater can be used with feet (which I purchased) or "hung" from a wall using 4 screw heads (screws partially sticking out so inverted key holes in the back of the heater will slip over so gravity will hold the heater in-place).

I do not want to use the available recessed mounting rim, so that the heater can easily be removed w/out leaving a huge hole where it mounts.

I also want the heater to be usable w/ the slide collapsed for enroute boondocking at rest areas and WalMart type overnights enroute to destination. Further, I'd like the warmth to be directed where it would naturally circulate heat the whole trailer, rather than concentrate in a specific area, if possible, since I'd like to keep the bedroom as well as the back couch/bed comfortable for sleeping, as both will often be occupied for that purpose. I do understand a good part of the Wave's heat is directed-infrared in nature, of course (and must not be aimed at anything flammable even w/ the slide "in."

I have a few ideas, but I don't want to be suggestive, and want "clean ideas" or how YOU did it, so I am not mentioning my ideas here to contaminate YOUR ideas.

So where did you/would you tap in to the gas, and what components did/would you use? I really don't want to have to remove major components (like the stove/oven) to access gas lines if I don't have to, of course, but will obviously listen to and and all options. The more the better!!

Unfortunately obvious places like the furnace line seem attractive, but the furnace and it's lines are buried well out-of-sight in my model.

Please include your camper model and floor plan in case it's NOT very similar to mine so I can account for differences in your method. Including an image of your floor plan in your reply (I just Googled my year/model and found the one shown above) if possible or convenient would be even more helpful for that purpose.

Thanks!!
Bob
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:29 PM   #2
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I made my connection at the fridge with the olympic connection kit W/ T adapter, copper tubing and quick disconnet. Connected from the outside fridge vent cover and routed the hard copper line inside of cabinet drawer under the stove. I use the feet kit and rubber hose. Mine would be hard to use with the slider closed.



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Old 02-25-2012, 04:11 PM   #3
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Thanks-

I hadn't thought of doing it outside behind the fridge. I'll go look on mine, but I am sure it's similar to yours in that regard.

I guess you have a shut-off valve in your system between the "T" and the QD connector?

I see w/ both of your slides closed, there wouldn't be much room except maybe on top of your island counter top where it wouldn't be too close to a combustible material.

On mine, I think I have room to put it on the floor faced either forward or aft in front of the oven or fridge w/o overheating anything.

One of the reasons I wanted the Olympic was so when overnighting at rest areas or a Walmart enroute where I wouldn't have shore power or be able to extend the slide I could have heat w/o running the furnace (10a consumption).

You mentioned a "Kit." Is that available somewhere rather than just buying components at Home Depot?

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:49 PM   #4
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Safety Note: Any fuel burning ventless appliance needs adequate air exchange to replenish Oxygen and remove products of combustion. Standards require at least a 1 square inch fresh air opening for every 1000 BTUs of propane used by any appliance. Replacement air (oxygen) is provided best by two vents, one low on an outside wall and the other high on another outside wall.
Massachusetts Exception: This item is prohibited for sale and delivery into the state of Massachusetts.


Ken
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #5
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Safety Note: Any fuel burning ventless appliance needs adequate air exchange to replenish Oxygen and remove products of combustion. Standards require at least a 1 square inch fresh air opening for every 1000 BTUs of propane used by any appliance. Replacement air (oxygen) is provided best by two vents, one low on an outside wall and the other high on another outside wall.
Massachusetts Exception: This item is prohibited for sale and delivery into the state of Massachusetts.


Ken
Thanks-That's exactly what is printed on the unit.

A few states are like Massachusetts. Very sad.

I saw where a State Food Inspector in N.C. confiscated a lunch from a 4 year old and made her eat the approved school lunch for that day (Chicken McNuggets), too.

Beware what you pack in your child's lunch box - Roanoke Motherhood | Examiner.com

Government over-reach by nanny state Socialists is everywhere. I agree it is a stupid law made by idiots, but such is the political situation in the USSA these days.

I run two CO monitor alarms when using unvented appliances, but I know the Mass Gestapo wouldn't care. Hopefully they won't Swat Team me there if they suspect I am using an Olympic Wave heater if I ever transit their state lines.

Thanks for the heads-up,
Bob
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:05 PM   #6
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Just wanted to point this out as some people do not read instructions very well or just ignore them.

Ken
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:28 PM   #7
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Just wanted to point this out as some people do not read instructions very well or just ignore them.

Ken
OK, got you. Thanks.

That's how we used to chlorinate the gene pool, or used to before gov't became our mommy and daddy.

Too bad when the idiots take innocent family members with them, of course.

Being you are from Texas as well, I thought you were being funny.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:01 PM   #8
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The kit was purchased from camping world when I bought the heater. I do not find a listing for the kit.

The kit contained a 1"copper tubing with female flare fitting on each end. A tee fitting male flare, and a 3' copper tubing with female flare fitting on each end.

I removed the copper fiting going to the frig, inserted short piece of tubing then the tee,attached the frig to the tee and the long copper tubing to the tee. Ran the tubing in under the stove cabinet and secured behing a door for the pots and pans. Added quick disconnect.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:43 PM   #9
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The kit was purchased from camping world when I bought the heater. I do not find a listing for the kit.

The kit contained a 1"copper tubing with female flare fitting on each end. A tee fitting male flare, and a 3' copper tubing with female flare fitting on each end.

I removed the copper fiting going to the frig, inserted short piece of tubing then the tee,attached the frig to the tee and the long copper tubing to the tee. Ran the tubing in under the stove cabinet and secured behing a door for the pots and pans. Added quick disconnect.
Thanks.

I couldn't find a kit, so I just bought all the individual components, and did all the flares myself, and put a ball valve in the heater line before the QD. The components even at Home Depot were expensive (like $3.79/ft for 3/8" copper line) compared to just a couple of years ago, and the Quick Disconnect was $38 all by itself, but the unit is in and works flawlessly, thanks!

I ended up "Ting" into the water heater line under the sink, which I am told is not up to code (each appliance should have its own line to the black pipe, and each should have its own shut-off, which none of my factory lines has in fact), but I feel it's common practice.

Bob
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