Black Waste Valve Replacement

[Ace020599]

Hey all!
The handle for my black water valve bounces back when I push to close it so it doesn't work properly. I have the cable system for operation. I also have the corrugated plastic underbelly. I think I need to replace the valve and received an estimate of $500-$700 for someone to do it. He did say i need to run about 10 full tanks of clean water through it to get it clean enough for him to work on. He suggested buying the valve that attaches to the outlet in the mean time which I just ordered. Have any of you done this job before and what advise can you give me if I were to do it myself? Is it possible the cable is loose and thats it? I appreciate any info you have.

Happy camping!!

[Pelledan]

Valve replacement is not difficult. It can be a bit tedious at times due to space limitations, but not difficult. If just one valve is bad, you're best to replace both as the process of replacing one constitutes 70% of the work in replacing both. Drain and rinse both tanks and use your leveling jacks to slightly raise the RV's side opposite the tanks to insure a complete drain. Each valve is secured in place by 4 sets of nuts and bolts that connect them to each side of the "Y" drain port. Remove the nuts and bolts and carefully separate the valve from its mating pieces. There are 2 rubber seals on each side of the valve that will come out with the valve or may have stuck to one mating piece or the other. Make sure you remove both old seals. Install the new seals either on the mating pieced or the valve itself, position the new valve and install the new fasteners that come with the valve. Repeat the process on the 2nd valve. From your description it sounds like a seal has broken or somehow has "folded" into the path of the knife valve itself. Make sure you protect yourself by wearing latex gloves while you work on these valves. If you search Youtube there are a number of videos that show the process of replacing dump valves.
Dan

[IC2]

Ace - before you embark on that journey, try this first.

I had a bit of that problem this year though the pull handle on ours does bounce back about a 1/2" and has since new and is not unusual.

There are motorcycle cable lubers that can be modified to use on a TT/5er. I bought one but haven't used it yet as I was able to use that straw supplied with most spray lubes (don't use WD-40 as it attracts water) and spray some down past the handle end of the cable

Next, I went to Walmart and bought a gallon jug of their cheapest vegetable oil(&5.00). After draining and flushing the tank, added a couple gallons of water then half of the oil. We then went a 100 miles to a CG. Miles don't matter as long as that oil sloshes against the seals. Voila - it worked.

You can also buy a jug of Thetford valve lube for ~12 bucks from AMAZON. That's supposed to work too.

I will be changing out my waste valves next spring regardless with new Valterra Bladex along with that poorly run OEM cable. The valve, once you reach it if under a belly cover, and cable are about 50-60 bucks each and if they are easy to access, take virtually minutes each to change with routing a new cable taking however long you need.

Tank clean out - yeah it will take several full flushes to get it clean and even then you'll want to wear rubber gloves.

Good luck!

[Ace020599]

Thanks for the advice! The handle bounces back a long way when I try to close it. It feels like there may be something caught in the valve itself not allowing it to completely close. Would the oil suggestion work on that also if that is the cause? Are there other options besides pulling it out?

I appreciate the help!

[IC2]

Originally Posted by Ace020599

Thanks for the advice! The handle bounces back when I try to close it. It feels like there may be something caught in the valve itself not allowing it to completely close. Would the oil suggestion work on that also if that is the cause? Are there other options besides pulling it out?

I appreciate the help!

Both Camco and Thetford sell a backflush fitting with a supplementary gate valve that may work. I have both (forgot one on a trip) but think the Thetford works best.

Hook it up at the outlet, turn on the water and let it try to dislodge anything in the valve seats. Let the water run for 2-3 minutes to add water to the tank and the opposite water rush may also help. Do this several times just to make sure things are clean. DO NOT walk away or get distracted or you may find a mess coming out of the roof vent or flowing out of your bathroom

If you have kids or visitors, caution them that nothing but toilet paper is to go in that tank. Not even Kleenex type tissues as they do not break down easily.

The oil trick will lube the seats, not remove debris.

Again, Good Luck!!

[chunker]

Couple questions, when you push the valve closed and get the "push back" does all fluid stop coming out or does it continue to leak/flow out? If the fluid stops, it could be a cable adjustment. As suggested, lube the cable and adjust to set the cable and handle to stop just when the valve blade closes. If when the handle bounces back water/sludge continues to flow, it could be some debris in the valve that prevents the blade from fully seating. Multiple flushing might dislodge or disassembly to clean might be needed. Depending on how far upstream the valve is from the sewer hose/stinky hose connection, you might try putting one of those brass screw type hose nozzles on and insert it to try side spraying the inside of the valve.

[Ace020599]

Here is the latest info. I found the opening under the trailer at the valve. Its about 1' x 1'. With some effort I can open and close it manually. I think the cable attachment to the frame has come loose so there is no tension when opening or closing.

Now I need to cut the corrugated plastic to access where the cable should be attached. The problem is I don't know where exactly to cut with the cable running the width of the trailer. I suppose it doesn't matter if there is a way to replace the corrugated plastic.

Thoughts??

[charliez]

Don't cut it. It's usually held up with self tapping screws. Follow the edges and unscrew it all and access everything real easy.
You can just unscrew part of it and let it sag while your doing the fix.

[JeffPhillips]

Originally Posted by charliez

Don't cut it. It's usually held up with self tapping screws. Follow the edges and unscrew it all and access everything real easy.
You can just unscrew part of it and let it sag while your doing the fix.

^^^Take this approach^^^

[Ace020599]

So I find out this isn't the type with the cable inside a sleeve. This one has a thin piece of metal that has a handle on it from one side with the valve the other. When closing the metal bends in the middle because it cant support the effort to close the valve.

This is a terrible design by Forest River and would be extremely surprised if there aren't many other owners experiencing the same thing.

[IC2]

Originally Posted by Ace020599

So I find out this isn't the type with the cable inside a sleeve. This one has a thin piece of metal that has a handle on it from one side with the valve the other. When closing the metal bends in the middle because it cant support the effort to close the valve.

This is a terrible design by Forest River and would be extremely surprised if there aren't many other owners experiencing the same thing.

...........but it was cheep, err, cheap and added a couple cents/RV to Warren Buffet's Berkshire-Hathaway's billions

If that is a straight shot. tou can replace the valve and use a rod pull instead of the flimsy metal. A rod pull is pretty postive vs a cable that heeds support every 12-18 inches

[Ace020599]

Originally Posted by IC2

...........but it was cheep, err, cheap and added a couple cents/RV to Warren Buffet's Berkshire-Hathaway's billions

If that is a straight shot. tou can replace the valve and use a rod pull instead of the flimsy metal. A rod pull is pretty postive vs a cable that heeds support every 12-18 inches

I would like to get a different diameter steel rod that would run straight to the connection without bending. This valve is one where they removed the handle, added a lot of length to it with the bar and put the handle back on.

[IC2]

Originally Posted by Ace020599

I would like to get a different diameter steel rod that would run straight to the connection without bending. This valve is one where they removed the handle, added a lot of length to it with the bar and put the handle back on.

This is my 'go-to' supplier for much better quality the the Big Box stores. Possibly a threaded rod would be stronger then a regular length

https://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-rods/=1earfkv

Not always the least inexpensive with UPS shipping at cost, but well worth a look. I'll be trying to set ours up with a rod operator if at all possible when I replace the valves though the galley tank is set up that way now and is the most difficult to pull.

[Pete37]

And wear wrap-around (liquid safe) safety goggles