Brake Gain / Trailer Weight / Chucking

[191124x7]

Originally Posted by Tegu

Funny.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-48483.html

[Cumminsfan]

This makes me like my B&W even more.
With that being said when I had my 12 Ram CTD it wanted to jerk on the startup after sitting at a stop light/sign. It always felt like the boost was too high and wouldn't let go until I lifted of the brake pedal and then I'd get a slight push/pull? from behind. At least thats what it felt like. When I switched to the Tekonsha P3 all that jerky stop start stuff went away. With my new 18 Ram I don't have that stuff.
I initially had a used Reese when I bought the 5er. It too clunked and banged. Got the B&W and all is quiet.

Sounds like a DIY shim is in the cards.

[ScoobyDoo]

Originally Posted by 191124x7

He said there is slight movement engineered into the Reese hitch between the frame and the pivot mechanism. They make a shim kit for the exact purpose of stopping it -- not because a hitch has ever failed due to the movement, but because people don't like it. He also said most people just shove something in there rather than buy the shim kit. And it turns out nobody has the shim kits in stock so I guess it's a non issue. I spoke with him for about 30 minutes going over everything and can't find anything wrong with my hitch... so I guess it is what it is.

Wow! Spend all that time on the phone, to have faith that somebody could solve a problem remotely. He tells you that play is designed in one point, that must be it. Could not be something wrong, like play in the jaws...
Like I posted before;

Not sure about this. I would think any bang or thud on start/stop would show as movement between vehicles. I hamn sure would stand out and watch somebody else start/stop until I knew where the play was. But then again, I have a class A CDL, LEO would expect me to understand something was wrong before I dropped a trailer in the street..

[tuffr2]

I had the same hitch but had a Moryde pin box. That must have nullified and noise as I would describe my experience as smooth stopping and acceleration.

A lot of discussion on noise and chucking. I still see a lot of 5th wheels without a 'fancy' pin box. It is my guess that those are the 5th wheels that make more noise and chucking.

[diesel2121]

What kind of hitch? My reese hitch did it non stop the b&w cam lock 360 degree contact is better.

[jimcumminsw]

See my comments in your lube plate thread!

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

This makes me like my B&W even more.
With that being said when I had my 12 Ram CTD it wanted to jerk on the startup after sitting at a stop light/sign. It always felt like the boost was too high and wouldn't let go until I lifted of the brake pedal and then I'd get a slight push/pull? from behind. At least thats what it felt like. When I switched to the Tekonsha P3 all that jerky stop start stuff went away. With my new 18 Ram I don't have that stuff.
I initially had a used Reese when I bought the 5er. It too clunked and banged. Got the B&W and all is quiet.

Sounds like a DIY shim is in the cards.

5W with roto flex pin box and I also had the clucking starting and on occasion stopping, with a Husky 28K and bed rails. Same 5W, new truck with puck mount and B&W Companion, no noise.

[Tegu]

Originally Posted by diesel2121

What kind of hitch? My reese hitch did it non stop the b&w cam lock 360 degree contact is better.

I had a Reese 14k that I bought about 20 years ago that was probably one of the cheapest (it only swiveled one way). A few years ago, I bought a 16k that swiveled two ways. It "clunked" and while looking for the problem, I noticed that the legs had some gaps at the bottom, when rocked back and forth and I made my own "shims".
I still had my old hitch and was noticing that the legs on it were made of a much heavier metal and solid. I switched the legs to the new hitch and they had a much smaller gap at the bottom, resulting in less noise.
I had to laugh at the post that said they were "engineered" that way.