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Old 09-12-2016, 11:11 PM   #1
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Built-in water pressure regulator

I just completed a little mod to install a residential type water pressure regulator inside my 5th basement service area.

I got tired of the low flow associated with most of the cheaper in-line hose pressure regulators. They are really flow reduces which also happens to reduce the pressure.

I got a Watts 1/2" threaded water pressure reducer (LF-25AUB Z3) on Amazon and a brass check valve plus a few fittings. Also replaced the exterior city water connector just to make the entire segment new. Even though the city water connector has a built-in brass check valve I wanted a check valve between the Watts WPR and the 12v pump so as not to create back pressure on the WPR's diaphragm. The output side of the check valve has a standard 1/2" NPT to 1/2" PEX fitting installed.

I replaced my exterior water hoses with new hoses having a 200 psi working and 300 psi burst strength. Thus I should not have to worry about protecting the hoses with a WPR.

Attached are photos of the full assembly on the bench and the fully installed product.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:15 AM   #2
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I like it, neat idea but it looks heavy, is there any support for the weight?
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:06 AM   #3
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Nice idea but I don't see a pressure gauge to ensure that you have the regulator set at the pressure you want. Also X2 on some support needed to hold up all that weight, or is it resting on the plate that's under it?
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:37 AM   #4
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I was also concerned about the weight on the end of the wall connector. Thus the reason for the two wooden blocks placed under each end of the regulator. The pipe segment is clamped down to these two blocks. One under the check valve - PEX fitting and another against the wall. The clamp near the wall is just out of sight in this photo, but some foam rubber padding is seen. The entire assembly is well supported.

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As for the pressure valve I had installed one a year ago to monitor both city water and pump pressure. I installed a PEX T where the pump outflow line joins the city water feed and then ran some PEX to the desired mounting location. I placed this gauge high in the basement near the EMS protection monitor. This way I can check all shore connection readings quickly in place. Because some pipe routing issues I placed another T and a drain valve and hose under the gauge for winterization. Below the EMS monitor is a list of the EMS error codes.

I didn't care to install an internal gauge for incoming water pressure, since I carry a portable unit and attach it to the campgrounds hose bib before connecting. However, with this setup I will only care if the city water pressure is low. In which case I'll supplement it with the pump.

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Old 09-13-2016, 11:41 AM   #5
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Howdy!

As fulltimers we fought water pressure problems for years. That all ended when I installed a Watts pressure regular.

"Happy Trails"
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:09 AM   #6
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I did pretty much the same thing with a Watts PR but I also added a pressure expansion tank and brass ball vales for all connections. Got rid of a lot of the leaking PEX crimped connections and replaced with copper.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:16 AM   #7
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I noticed you installed a check valve. If you don't have an expansion tank upsteam of check valve, the hot water heater will build up pressure and the check valve will prevent the excess water pressure from escaping back through the regulator.

It's the same reason you have an expansion tank on residential water heaters when there is a backflow preventer installed at the meter.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:37 AM   #8
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I do have one. Thanks adding this detail to the thread.
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Old 09-24-2016, 03:19 PM   #9
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I'll try and remember to take some pics tomorrow.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:07 PM   #10
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Here's my install
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:09 PM   #11
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This is before the new water pump was installed in front of the expansion tank
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