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Old 08-16-2005, 06:10 AM   #1
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We bought our HR presendential last August. We have had nothing but problems with this fridge everytime we take it out. been to dealer 3 times for work. The last time we brought it back had to flash(?) the panel board due to no code,but it also wasnt workin right before the no code. We brought it back plugged it in, temp was around 32 on setting of 7( out of 9). then second day temp went up to 40 so bumped setting to 9.The whole camping trip it never went below 40 degrees on highest setting. We brought it back.They stated fridge worked fine until took it outside and in a day or so temp shot up again. Tech said he finally figured out trailer battery was bad, corroded etc. He replaced battery and working OK for now. My question is, can the trailer battery really cause the temp in fridge to stay above 40 degrees when it is plugged into electric? Fridge works just not right. It doesnt even run continuously like trying to get temp down.
Tammy
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Old 08-16-2005, 06:10 AM   #2
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We bought our HR presendential last August. We have had nothing but problems with this fridge everytime we take it out. been to dealer 3 times for work. The last time we brought it back had to flash(?) the panel board due to no code,but it also wasnt workin right before the no code. We brought it back plugged it in, temp was around 32 on setting of 7( out of 9). then second day temp went up to 40 so bumped setting to 9.The whole camping trip it never went below 40 degrees on highest setting. We brought it back.They stated fridge worked fine until took it outside and in a day or so temp shot up again. Tech said he finally figured out trailer battery was bad, corroded etc. He replaced battery and working OK for now. My question is, can the trailer battery really cause the temp in fridge to stay above 40 degrees when it is plugged into electric? Fridge works just not right. It doesnt even run continuously like trying to get temp down.
Tammy
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:44 PM   #3
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The temp control in the fridge runs on 12V - even though the coil is heated by either a gas flame or 110VAC. If you are boondocking and running from batteries, it is possible that low or unstable batteries could cause poor thermal regulation. But I think this is not likely. To test this, run the fridge on LPG while plugged in to 110 This way the converter is supplying the 12V and not the battery. It is possible that there is a connection problem between the converter and the fridge - or a problem with the control board in the fridge. I would think that a corroded connection on the battery would have shown up in other ways - like dimming lights and other 12V stuff not working right.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:43 PM   #4
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Randy is correct Tammy, all of the newer refrigerators made in the past twenty or so years require a 12 volt supply for the electronic control board to function..

As Randy stated, it does not matter whether its running on propane or 110 volts, it still must have a 12 volt power supply.

The older refrigerators manufactured before the 1960s/70s (?) did not need the 12 volt power because they did not have the electronic system to control the operation.

The temperature was controlled by simply adjusting a valve, which was a little black knob usually located on the front of the fridge at the bottom.

Before taking a trip, check the batteries and make sure they are charged up and in good shape, especially the clamps and the battery posts they connect to..

When a batteries sit for long spells, they tend to form a white crusty substance around the battery post and this can cause an insulation to form between the clamp and the post..

Buy a battery post cleaner at Wal-Mart for about 99 cent. It'll last you a lifetime..

best wishes,
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Old 08-17-2005, 03:22 AM   #5
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Thanks guys.Randy, we have had no dimming lights or any other electrical malfunction, dont get me started on mechanical though. We bought this trailer new in aug 04,it is a 03 model. First time we took it out, fridge went no code and about 12 other things broke down.
We don't boondock. When we ran it down the road on propane, the fridge alarm would always sound off during trip.We could push MODE button once and it quit. Fridge temp would not go below 40 while on highest setting and plugged in.Fridge will go on and off a normal amount tho.Dealer said they had it on propane without symptoms, then switched to electric and no symptoms, then moved it outside (i think on propane) and in day or so temp started going up.
This service dept manager has lied to us so many times it aint funny. This tech tho seems like he is honestly trying.
I will have hubby try the test you mentioned about running it on gas while plugged in and see if anything happens.Altho we got camper back on monday evening, plugged it in, fridge on electric, and so far temp last night was 33 in fridge on setting of 5.But we have another camping trip starting thursday.
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:17 AM   #6
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Tammy, if you can take a mirror and look up the venting on the outside back of the ref. you should be able to see all the way to the roof vent with no obstructions. If it has a piece of batt insulation fallen across the condensor this could cause you problem. If it is clear just keep an eye on the temps a few times a day. A small optional fan can be installed out there for really hot weather.
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:28 AM   #7
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RV wizard, I will have my husband check this, but if this is the problem wouldnt the fridge try and run continuously to make an attempt to keep temps down? It seems to run no more than my home fridge even when over 40 degrees in fridge. Also we are going on the third day since bringing it back from shop, last night temps were still good on setting of 5, and this is setting outside plugged into electric.But we are getting ready to take a camping trip tonight, so will see how it does.
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:48 PM   #8
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Tammy, and all?

Now I'm really curious, would 40 degrees not be about right for the reefer? Tammy, how is your freezer working?

Bob
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:24 PM   #9
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Hi Bob,
Being in the restaurant business for a lot of years, I can tell you that my big walk-in reefers had to maintain a temperature of 38 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit and the walk-in freezer had to maintain a temperature between minus 5 and plus five degrees Fahrenheit.

I believe you will find the average temperature in a normal household refrigerator usually stays around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
and the freezer around plus 5 degrees.

While a separate freezer, like a big chest freezer will be set a about minus 5 degrees Fahrenheit.

But home refrigeration units do not have to abide by the federal and state laws concerning food storage.. so these numbers can vary greatly, depending on the home owner.

I just got up and checked my RV Dometic refrigerator and the fridge is reading "35" and the freezer is reading "0"..
The (8/10 ?) cubic foot HAIER 110 volt freezer I have in the living room area is reading plus "5"..

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Old 08-18-2005, 04:11 PM   #10
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Try this tip
Tammy.. this may help? apparently the humidity switch will drain battery, causing probs......Brad
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Old 08-19-2005, 06:28 AM   #11
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Just in case you didn't know this but you don't have to take your trailer to the dealer for this problem. You can take it to any "authorized" repair center. Look on the manuf. website for locations. The warranty will be honored at any of these locations. It doesn't have to be a big shop to be authorized either. It sounds to me you have either a control board problem or cooling coil problem. Good luck to you.
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Old 08-21-2005, 03:15 PM   #12
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The frdige temps were always well above 40 on highest setting. This trip after battery replacement the fridge was easily maintained at anywhere from 33 to 45 ( to those who asked about temp:Monaco recommended temps below 40, I am no expert, but seems safer for meats.), without putting it on its highest setting.On the way home tho while running it on propane, the temps came up again some.Around 45 or so, even tho fridge wasnt opend for almost 2 hrs. Is it normal to run higher temps on propane than electric? It also never alarmed on the way home.
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Old 08-21-2005, 05:31 PM   #13
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Tammy, You should be able to easily get into the 30 degree range - I once froze pop while camping in 60 degree weather with a setting of 4. I have also been in 90 degree weather and only had to go to a 6 or 7 to maintain 35 degrees. You should not see much if any difference between 110V and LPG in terms of cooling. That said, I have noticed that LPG seems to cool the unit faster. The purpose of either is to heat a coil that boils the ammonia off - for that either one will work. Problems in older units came when the unit was operated while not level and the LPG flame - always wanting to go up - heated one area of the coil more than the other which created crystals in the coil and choked it off. Todays designs are a little more tolarent of off level use. Now back to your problem. I think that your problem is not with the batterys but in the fridge and as someone else said the control board. A good dealer would have no problem replaceing it - if for no other reason than to rule it out as the problem. I understand your reluctance to go back to the dealer. Contact your TT mfg and see if there is some other place you can take it to. BTW I never run the fridge while traveling, properly cooled the night before and loaded with cold food, I have traveled 6 hrs or more with little or no loss in temperature inside the fridge. In fact I always travel and store the unit with the LPG off.
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