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Old 09-11-2013, 10:13 PM   #1
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Caulking seams; roofline

Wondering what others do.

I suppose like my home, recaulking windows is a standard work effort for older windows.

For my RV, how do you monitor the seams of you roofline?

I found that I had water damage and then inspected very closely and I guess that minor 'blemishes' in caulk lines are not so minor. I would have not thought that those blemishes would leak.

How often do you inspect? Have you done the work yourself?

Details please.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:20 PM   #2
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I sealed all of my roof seams with Eternabond roofing tape the first year I bought the MH 10 years ago and have not touched it since. It still looks brand new and it's been maintenance free. We will be ordering a new MH soon and I will do the roof seams on that one as well.
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Old 09-20-2013, 03:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brobox View Post
I sealed all of my roof seams with Eternabond roofing tape the first year I bought the MH 10 years ago and have not touched it since. It still looks brand new and it's been maintenance free. We will be ordering a new MH soon and I will do the roof seams on that one as well.
Chuck-did you tape around all the vents and fans and air units and vent stacks?
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:50 PM   #4
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I've used nothing but Dicor self leveling sealant on the roof of my '97 32' trailer. I check the roof twice a year. In '05 I found about a foot of OEM sealant had come loose around the skylite. I pulled of what was loose and added a bit of Dicor to that spot.

Other places I've found a short hairline cracks. I add a bit of Dicor to the crack. Keep in mind when added any sealant you don't want to make a dam for water to sit behind.

On vertical surfaces I like ProFlex . There are several good sealants made for RVs.

I wouldn't add Eternabond to a new trailer. Roof warrantys can been voided as one newby RV owner found out, it can create more water issues if it isn't done correct. See your RV dealer or the manufacturer first for anything non OEM you do to the roof.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:02 AM   #5
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Roof caulk

This is something I have had to deal with. I have a 40' - '01 Travel Supreme 5th wheel. The roof caulk was Dicor self levelling compound done at the plant. It weathered and cracked in various places but you don't know if the cracks are surface or go all the way thru so I cleaned suspicious areas as best I could with laquer thinner and re-applied more Dicor, but was never 100% certain.

I went with Eternabond Tape after the original Dicor sealant was removed and the deck area supposedly cleaned. Once it has been done you need not worry about the roof. Caulk the edges of the tape so wind can't catch it. Be sure and clean roof area and vents etch with their cleaner and primer.
It is not an easy job. Designer Coachworks in Calgary did the original work but botched it up horribly, I have pics. The trailer was taken to Arbutus RV in Port Alberni where Ron and the boys fixed it, again I have pics of that as well.

Hatches, vents and cables are all things you will need to deal with.

Roofs, suspension and tires all critical things which need addressing but get the least attention, so I'm told.

Wherever you are, make sure who does it does it properly. I looked at the original job and had several other repair firms look also and we all agreed DC had done a poor job. We salvaged what we could and replaced what was needed.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:39 AM   #6
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On my 2000, 3 years ago I resealed with:
Eternabond tape for the seams (fiberglass to EPDM roof),
Eternabond tape for EPDM rips (branches will slash the roofing)
Eternabond self leveling sealant for all roof penetrations after cleaning/scraping the old cracked Dicor (don't remove the old Dicor, just clean it up).
There are lots of RV self leveling sealants out there, I ordered the Eternabond brand when I ordered the tape.
I did not tape around the vents (Just re-sealed). I did add CAMCO vent covers to 2 vents. I did not re-seal the A/C - it seems the A/C gaskets are pretty good these days.
For the Windows I just tightened up the frame (the frame screws inside) and you can see the Dicor compress/squeeze out a little.
+3 years later and all is good (it leaked a lot when I bought it).
I inspect the roof in the spring and in the fall; wash the roof with spick-n-span, using a broom to lightly scrub it, once a year.
It took several days for me to clean/dry/tape/seal the roof - don't rush it, do it right and it will last. Morning of Day 1 you wash and inspect/plan. Let it dry all day. Start taping and sealing. Also, I used a full 2 tubes of sealant - could have used 3. Don't use silicone.
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:08 AM   #7
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Tom, sounds good. Glad it is holding up 3 yrs later. Removing old Dicor had mixed reviews but the firm who used to sell the product recommended it. I will post a link to another forum dealing with this issue.
RV Tech / RV Repairs/Roof Caulk
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:15 AM   #8
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They have a good point on warm temps or leaving the EBond tape in the sun to relax. I patched a rip when it was 60 degrees out and did my seams when it was 85 degrees - the tape went on much better at 85 degrees. Also, if an area needs to be re-visited due to not sticking well (like a wrinkle in a corner), you can use a hair dryer to warm the tape up, press down and it will stick real well.
P.S. My roof was EPDM, so scraping all the old off wasn't an option. If you are going to scrape do it in hot weather or try a hair dryer. Most of my work was done at 85 degrees in the evening just as the shade crept up on the RV so the roof was quite warm.
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