Changing Converter

[Blue74]

I just purchased a PD 9180 converter and wanted to check to see if I need to change the wire running from the MagneTek 900 Series to the batteries? I think Alfa just used Romex for the run but thought since the amperage is higher than the original I was not sure. Planning to mount it in the same location so I will have to run the charge wizard into the bedroom but think it will get better air circulation than under the entertainment center and all the wires are there.

Next will be to replace the 2 group 24 batteries for two Trojan T-105.

[Blue74]

I just purchased a PD 9180 converter and wanted to check to see if I need to change the wire running from the MagneTek 900 Series to the batteries? I think Alfa just used Romex for the run but thought since the amperage is higher than the original I was not sure. Planning to mount it in the same location so I will have to run the charge wizard into the bedroom but think it will get better air circulation than under the entertainment center and all the wires are there.

Next will be to replace the 2 group 24 batteries for two Trojan T-105.

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

I think there was a thread a while back on the toyhauler section about a guy who got one of the 80 amp progressive dynamic converters who had to upgrade the wiring...

You would probably have to look to determine what gauge of wire is in there currently...

The most current a flooded cell battery will accept when charging is generally 1/20th of it's amp hour rating (on the 20 hour scale). A pair of T105's would give you 225 amp hours, so that converter/charger would give you lots of extra power to run accessories or whatever while charging.

On the subject of batteries, you might consider a pair of T-125's if you can get them at a good price. They are the same size as T-105's but rated at 240 amp hours. If your battery box is tall enough, the T-145 is a 260 amp hour battery which is about an inch taller...

[Roam America]

This chart may help. Using it you can determine the correct wire size for the amperage of your new converter and the length of the wire. Replace existing wiring if necessary.

[Blue74]

Jeff_in_The_Dalles and K-Star thanks for the replies.

I just got done looking at the upgrades in the Toy hauler section and he used 4ga power wire used in car audio systems for several different reasons. So since I have today off I have been working on the install, well not the real install just the think and get items part. The new converter will fit in the bottom of the entertainment center on the floor under the bottom drawer and there should be enough space for air flow for cooling. So I was going to plug in the unit to see how much noise the cooling fan made but the plug is not the normal 120V wall socket so I will have to wait for the trip to Lowe's. The entertainment center sets right above the battery tray so I will run new 4 GA wire with a length of 3 to 4 feet so there should be no problem with voltage drop between converter and batteries. This way I can also mount the control wizard remote by the fuse panel.

As far as I can figure on the Alfa is that the Magnetek is wired to the batteries and then wires are to the 2 bus bars with ATO type fuses for the different circuits. I have found no relays or other equipment in the system so the upgrade should be very simple to do. I plan on finding the 2 wires at the batteries and tape them off and just unplug the Magnetek and leave it in place.

I also don't like the spider web of wires attached to the top of the batteries makes it imposable to check the water level. I plan to mount 2 power feed junction blocksin the battery compartment and then run a battery cable to the tops of the batteries with battery cables connecting the batteries together. The battery tray base is the size of 2 group 24 batteries so the length will be OK but the width will be too small but the opening has enough height. I also plan to add 2 6V batteries in a sealed and vented battery box in the space next to the water heater in the underbelly. I will have battery cables made up to connect the 2 banks of batteries.

Next will be the install of a Progressive Ind. Surge protector but that will have to wait till this winter so I can shut down the shore power to pull the circuit panel and shut down the A/C.

Paul

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

The junction block, or even a fuse block or battery switch, sounds like a good idea and should make for a more professional and clean looking setup.

I'd also suggest having some convoluted split loom harness on hand to put over your new positive cable, and to bundle any of the other wires.

[Blue74]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jeff_in_The_Dalles:
I'd also suggest having some convoluted split loom harness on hand to put over your new positive cable, and to bundle any of the other wires. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was doing a lot of wiring on my truck and have three boxes of three different sizes in the underbelly of the trailer makes the wiring look finished.

Paul