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11-03-2010, 10:03 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Wixom MI
Posts: 13
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Cheap way to level 5th Wheel
I have a Fuzion 398 Toy hauler (18,000 lbs). It is a tri-axle; so, using 2X10's means carrying a lot of lumber if I need to jack up one side 3-4 inches.
$4000+ for a Bigfoot System seems like the way to go but I cannot justify that kind of investment right now.
Is is possible to use bottle jacks to level a 5th wheel safely. I figure I need to add axle stands if the tires wind up off the ground. This woudl be a cheap way to go but I am not fond of it.
The other option is to use heavy duty scissor jacks. I can get BAL units rated at 7500 lbs and they can be powered making the job easier. Total cost is $360.
Any advice, opinions or other options appreciated. I am a newbie but I have tough skin.
Thanks,
Don
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11-03-2010, 10:19 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Cypress, Texas USA
Posts: 8,854
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Carry a couple of bags of Lynx levelers and some short pieces of 1"x4" to go on top of them to trim level.
Rusty
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11-03-2010, 12:02 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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I've tried about everything possible and still end up with a truck bed full of lumber as it ends up being cheaper as well as easier. I have not had a tri axle unit but can only envision about 50% more pieces of wood .
The BAL scissors jacks - they will not work as they are only for stabilizing not supporting. A word of warning - don't jack or support your trailer under the axle tubes - it will damage them. Whatever brand you have, read the lit that came with the trailer. If you decide that you really need to jack individual wheels that way, use the spring plate (3 jacks???)
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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11-03-2010, 04:35 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 7
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Bottle jacks will creep down over time and jack stands would have to be used every time. Wood is still the best, I made up 2 individual 2x8 step chocks stepped two high. I can drive up 1 1/2 inches or 3 inches if necessary. Rarely do i need more than 3" if so than I have a few extra 2x6's to go up to 4 1/2".
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11-03-2010, 04:51 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bryan, TX when not traveling.
Posts: 22,948
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We have a tri-axle and carry 6 pieces of 2 x 8 and 3 pieces of 1 x 8. So far, I have always managed to get the trailer level side to side. Cut the pieces so that you can get them between the axles and stacked. I can't see the cost of the hydraulic system because it is still a stabilizer and not meant to lift the trailer. The trailer is designed to be mostly supported at the axles, front legs on a 5er and the pin or hitch, not at the ends with the axles hanging.
The problem with the Lynx blocks is you can't use them on gravel or an uneven surface. They will break. I would recommend that you carry pieces of 1/2" plywood to go under the Lynx blocks it you are not on a hard surface.
My 5 cents worth...
ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|No Longer Full-Time! - 2023 Cougar 22MLS toted by 2022 F150, 3.5L EcoBoost Tow Max FX4 Lariat Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot, retired mechanical engineer
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11-04-2010, 10:08 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Wixom MI
Posts: 13
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Ken,
I never thought of stacking the planks to fit between the axles. It is a good idea and I will check if I have enough width. I need a minimum of 8 feet to span the tri-axles. I could use shorter boards and butt them together. Maybe even use a couple of hinges on 5' boards to get 10' unfolded lengths. Do you use bungee cords to strap them down between the axles?
It does mean getting my fat old body under the unit to pull them off when needed and to pack away afterward but it beats spending $4000+ or filling the truck bed with wood.
Thanks for the replies everyone.
Don
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11-04-2010, 10:16 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Cypress, Texas USA
Posts: 8,854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXiceman
The problem with the Lynx blocks is you can't use them on gravel or an uneven surface. They will break.
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I have 2 bags of Lynx Levelers that I've been carrying for about 15 years. Over that time, I've probably broken 3 of them (just cracked the base) on really uneven surfaces, but they're still usable. They're more durable than you'd think in less than perfect conditions.
Of course, I carry lumber in the front bay as well.
Rusty
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11-04-2010, 06:24 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 456
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I bought one of those nefty kean air leveling pillows made out of Keylar that you run the tires onto and use an air conpressor to pump it up and level the trailer. It will level the trailer but it will also allow the trailer to move much more that the wheels alone allow! I wonder if these things are still sold?
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11-04-2010, 08:45 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 691
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Have a 38' tri axle Kountryaire. Carry 2X10X4' which are beveled @ 45 degrees on ends and a short rope thru the end (gives something to get a hold on when muddy/etc). You can flip boards over to match bevels for leveling. Rope passes under the tire and holds second layer in place while backing up. I often get into soft areas and use the boards to back RV/truck over into park space and then for leveling
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11-04-2010, 08:52 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 3,595
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Air bags are used to level, for example, a loaded pickup truck. This is just a thought....can air leveling bags be used?
Or.....several years ago we had a 5er. I had air bags that you could drive the trailer wheels on to and then inflate to level the rig. Maybe a Google search could find these for you. Good luck
__________________
KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
2013 Jeep Rubicon JK Unlimited
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11-15-2010, 08:19 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Calgary Alberta Can.
Posts: 45
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By the look of your rig and needing to level up o 4" I would guess that you are in the boonies. If so why not make a small trench on the high side?
Art.
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11-22-2010, 03:10 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dverna
Ken,
It does mean getting my fat old body under the unit to pull them off when needed and to pack away afterward but it beats spending $4000+ or filling the truck bed with wood.
Thanks for the replies everyone.
Don
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I wouldn't put anything in the bed with a fifth wheel. If I do they are strapped down. I have had a 4 ft 2 X 10 levitate in my bed. Its a little spooky seeing that in the rear view mirrior.
__________________
"I won't be wronged I won't be insulted I won't be layed a hand on. I don't do these things to other people. And I require the same from them." (John Bernard Books) John Wayne The Shootist his last Movie.
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11-25-2010, 11:49 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: On the road
Posts: 390
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I always carried wood. Cut pieces to tightly fit between tires, then a 2nd board shorter to stack on top in between, cut the ends on a 45. I usually have some thick ones as well as a couple of thinner ones. Another option, if you are parked on a gravel space is to removed some gravel on the high side-just remember to straighten the gravel up as you leave.
Larry
__________________
'13 Ram Laramie 3500, Aisin auto,4:10, Reese adapter and 20K hitch, '10 HitchHiker 36LKRSB
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11-26-2010, 09:32 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Full Timer / Vagabond
Posts: 609
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What ever you put under the tires be sure the tread is fully supported. I used 2" X 10"- 16" long. Smaller pieces are better than long ones as ground slope in two directions can be taken care of by using two pieces front, 2 X 10 - 16 and 1 X 10 - 16 pieces middle and one 2 X 10 -16 rear etc. Or carry one long and some short pieces. I also carried 1" X 10"- 16 " long. Now I have Big Foot and still carry some wood as once in a while the ground slopes too much even for Big Foot.
__________________
Ralph & Snickers
2006 3500 Chevy Dually - 8.1 - Allison
2006 30' New Horizon - Solar
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