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Old 10-15-2012, 06:10 PM   #1
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Clarification on stabilizing the trailer

Hello forum. I could really use your help in clarifying some info I received today. A little while ago I posted a thread on the using a stabilizing bar from Camping World to see if it would be worth while getting to drastically reduce or get rid of the trailer movement when camping with the slides out. I got some good responses and went to another RV dealer to possibly purchase the item. I was going to buy (what can be best described as jack stands) to put under the main frame of the trailer behind the rear tires. While there the parts salesman said that my purchase would be futile because it wouldn't work to reduce the rocking of the trailer. He suggested that I needed to support the the two main slides at the back of the trailer (I have a total of 4 slides) with slide supports that go under each slide then purchase a king pin stand. My $30 original purchase was exceeding the $320 mark with his suggestions. One thing I have learned is not to trust salesmen.

I have researched previous forums on the use of the king pin stand and it seems that most don't feel that it was worth the purchase. Would supporting the slides be the best option to eliminating the rocking? Would supporting the main frame behind the tires work or not? Please help.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:24 PM   #2
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I have never owned a 5er but we have TT with a big slide. We have 4 corner stabilizers mounted to the frame by the factory. Years ago I bought slide jacks and later heard the manufacter didn't like them so don't use them. We realy don't have a rocking problem. I would contact the manufacturer's engineering dept. and find out what they think.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:26 PM   #3
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No 5er experience but, putting jack stands under slides is basically a no no. The reasoning is, if ANYTHING happened to the main support system (ground settling, ect) that would damage the slide(s). I'm sure any mfg will tell you the slides are designed that they need no support and doing the aforementioned is not recommended.

That said, the chances of that happening I would think would be rare, especially if precausions were taken.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:51 AM   #4
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We have used a king pin stand since 2005. It does make a noticeable difference. It's steel and strong; not an aluminum one. I believe that makes a difference.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:24 AM   #5
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DO NOT put any supports under the slides. If the trialer shift and the slide supports do not, you will damage the slides. There is a lot of stuff being sold that is not a good idea fro RVs...just makes money for the seller.

Look for a cross brace system that will brace side to side as well as front to rear.
The Eliminator Strut Stabilizer System - Set of 6 Struts - Ultra-fab Products 48-979007 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

The jacks and such still allow some side movement. Inorder to reduce this you need to make a triangle...remember you basic bridge truss uses triangles to strengthen the design. Same thing applies here.

Ken
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
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We have used a king pin stand since 2005. It does make a noticeable difference. It's steel and strong; not an aluminum one. I believe that makes a difference.
We also have used the king pin stand for years, and agree that it makes a noticable difference. If we are only overnighting, I don't usually set it up. If we have been sitting somewhere with it up, then don't use it for a night or two, the difference seems very noticable to us.

I too have seen the comments from people who didn't notice any difference, and am always a little puzzled. It doesn't get rid of all the side to side movement, and would expect the cross bars would do better with that.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:47 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by TXiceman View Post
DO NOT put any supports under the slides. If the trialer shift and the slide supports do not, you will damage the slides. There is a lot of stuff being sold that is not a good idea fro RVs...just makes money for the seller.

Look for a cross brace system that will brace side to side as well as front to rear.
The Eliminator Strut Stabilizer System - Set of 6 Struts - Ultra-fab Products 48-979007 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

The jacks and such still allow some side movement. Inorder to reduce this you need to make a triangle...remember you basic bridge truss uses triangles to strengthen the design. Same thing applies here.

Ken

For that price I would pay a buddy or talk to a welding shop for that. Your talking maybe 50-70 dollars in materials and that is extreme. I think they jack up the price so much cause they know it's a issue and people will pay for it.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:57 AM   #8
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For that price I would pay a buddy or talk to a welding shop for that. Your talking maybe 50-70 dollars in materials and that is extreme. I think they jack up the price so much cause they know it's a issue and people will pay for it.

I agree on the price, but it does come with all of the needed screws, bolts, swivel joints, etc to make it work. I caught it on sale at CW for a lot less, earlier this year. You might check on the Internet and see who else sells the kit. CW is seldom the cheapest place. Like here: http://www.adventurerv.net/the-elimi...l-p-10495.html

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Old 10-16-2012, 08:07 AM   #9
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I have never tried it, but you think something like this would work good if not better?

I thought about making two. One for front of fifth and one for rear.


Universal RV Stabilizer - Valterra 020106 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

This is what I currently use and work great. If you have two axles.


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Old 10-16-2012, 08:12 AM   #10
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I have never tried it, but you think something like this would work good if not better?

I thought about making two. One for front of fifth and one for rear.


Universal RV Stabilizer - Valterra 020106 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

That will help with the movement in one plane, but not the front to rear. You would really need the same set up to lock the movement front to rear.

You can go as simple as a couple of the ratchet straps that go from the top of one jack to the bottom of the opposite jack. This will help, but only in the direction of the tension. A solid bar will work in both tension and compression.

The chock that locks the wheels together helps a lit, but yo still get some movement front torear due to the give in the tire side walls.

Ken
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:34 AM   #11
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I've owned a TT for a bit, a class C and a class A for many years, never a 5er. I've camped with all, without 4 corner main frame jacks. They all rocked. I've also camped with them all with 4 corner frame jacks adjusted to take some weight off the suspension, they never rocked.

As far as a pin jack/support (if not usually needed) It sits in the middle of the coach, which is at the fulcrum point of any side to side rocking. Although adding some stability, I don't see much help with side to side rocking.

All that said, I can't help but feeling someone is missing something here. What makes a 5er still rock if the frame is fully supported properly with sufficient weight off the suspension?
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:43 AM   #12
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I've owned a TT for a bit, a class C and a class A for many years, never a 5er. I've camped with all, without 4 corner main frame jacks. They all rocked. I've also camped with them all with 4 corner frame jacks adjusted to take some weight off the suspension, they never rocked.

As far as a pin jack/support (if not usually needed) It sits in the middle of the coach, which is at the fulcrum point of any side to side rocking. Although adding some stability, I don't see much help with side to side rocking.

All that said, I can't help but feeling someone is missing something here. What makes a 5er still rock if the frame is fully supported properly with sufficient weight off the suspension?

I think what we are grabbing from this is.....Even though weight is off the suspension doesn't mean that it is not a weak jack that can wobble.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:54 AM   #13
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People are different on what is too much movement to suit them. One of the tripods came with my used Suites--sold it quickly as it was very heavy and did not make any noticeable difference. I chock both sides of trailer with BAL locks after leveling, then level front to rear. After that, I use the rear stabilizers (hydraulic) to steady the trailer. Wife and I are both ok with whatever movement then occurs. Ours is a heavy trailer with stiff springs, so possibly that helps keep movement down. I have a friend with an Open Range/auto level with the adj leg locks that he says really do a good job of stopping movement.

If a trailer is supported on the frame in the proper spots, I don't see how movement can be enough to cause discomfort inside.

Joe
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:01 AM   #14
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Do not use the slide supports. Most slides are designed with a slight downward tilt or cantilever when extended. Supports work to defeat this design feature which is done to ensure a good tight seal against water and outside weather intrusion. May also cause eventual mechanical misalignment.
It is not just the slides causing the movement. It is the entire trailer frame and structure.

Our fiver is 40'. A good set of between the wheel chocks is a must to minimize any movement. Personally I prefer and use Roto-Choks. Naturally this assume tandem axles.We have the Big Foot system which make a big difference in rocking and movement. Big foot and front JT Strong arm stabilizers in the front. The combination makes our trailer rock solid even in high winds.

BTW where I am working camping we sell RV Parts. We still recommend against them and some other items we have in stock. So why do we stock them? Despite our and others recommendation some folks still wish to purchase!
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