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Old 10-08-2006, 11:43 AM   #1
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I've got a Dometic RM2652 that's about 8 years old and has been giving me problems off and on over the last year. The unit does work fine on 110V. I only have a problem with propane and it doesn't matter whether or not the camper is plugged into shore power or not.
The burner lights just fine without any trouble at all and has a nice blue flame. The orifice has been checked and it's clean, the burner is clean and the flue is clean as well. The problem is that after the fridge lights the pilot everything works fine for up to and minute and then the solenoid or whatever shuts down the propane supply and turns on the 'CHECK' light on the front panel. I can visually see the burner is running fine and then suddenly I hear the propane valve slam shut. My first thought was maybe the thermistor that senses the flame might be bad and cause the unit to think that the flame had already gone out. To test that I disconnected the 2 leads from the thermistor from the circuit board and put a jumper wire across those 2 leads on the circuit board. The problem didn't change at all, the burner lit immediately after resetting the 'CHECK' light and then within a minute the valve slammed off and the burner went out. I'm still not certain if that was a valid test on the thermistor though because I really don't know if it's supposed to be a short across those leads under normal circumstances or not, just thought I'd give it a try.
So now I'm about out of ideas short of shotgunning parts on this thing. Can anybody give me any other ideas? Thanks.
Max
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Old 10-08-2006, 11:43 AM   #2
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I've got a Dometic RM2652 that's about 8 years old and has been giving me problems off and on over the last year. The unit does work fine on 110V. I only have a problem with propane and it doesn't matter whether or not the camper is plugged into shore power or not.
The burner lights just fine without any trouble at all and has a nice blue flame. The orifice has been checked and it's clean, the burner is clean and the flue is clean as well. The problem is that after the fridge lights the pilot everything works fine for up to and minute and then the solenoid or whatever shuts down the propane supply and turns on the 'CHECK' light on the front panel. I can visually see the burner is running fine and then suddenly I hear the propane valve slam shut. My first thought was maybe the thermistor that senses the flame might be bad and cause the unit to think that the flame had already gone out. To test that I disconnected the 2 leads from the thermistor from the circuit board and put a jumper wire across those 2 leads on the circuit board. The problem didn't change at all, the burner lit immediately after resetting the 'CHECK' light and then within a minute the valve slammed off and the burner went out. I'm still not certain if that was a valid test on the thermistor though because I really don't know if it's supposed to be a short across those leads under normal circumstances or not, just thought I'd give it a try.
So now I'm about out of ideas short of shotgunning parts on this thing. Can anybody give me any other ideas? Thanks.
Max
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Old 10-08-2006, 06:33 PM   #3
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Just a little more info on the problem after playing with it some more. I tested the thermostat the same way I did the thermistor. Tried shorting it out and also just disconnecting it and running it open. No change in the problem. My buddy and I kept playing and just for kicks found that if desperation kicks in, we can make it run all day by shorting a 12V jumper direct to the plunger and forcing it to stay open. I ran it that way long enough to drop the temperature from 80 down to 40 before I pulled the plug and turned off the propane tank for the night. I think that if I leave it shorted like that, not only would the gas not shut off if the flame went out but it would probably never shut off the gas no matter what the fridge temp gets down to. I'm not too concerned about the lettuce freezing, but if my beer freezes then we've got a problem. It's an interesting solution if I had no other way to work the unit while dry camping though and I could just manually turn it on and off to keep the unit somewhere near the desired temperature range.
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Old 10-08-2006, 07:07 PM   #4
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Here is a link to the service manual of your fridge.

http://www.bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/o...2operation.pdf

It sounds to me like the theromcouple may have gone bad. I'll see if I can find a service manual with trouble shooting information.

Edit: Here's a link to the 37 page service manual...

http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_tech...707_2811SM.PDF
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Old 10-09-2006, 12:18 PM   #5
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Jeff, thanks for the links. The 2nd link didn't actually list my unit but I think I've found the correct one at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/1252service.pdf
The test there on page 14 for the thermocouple says that it should produce 25 to 35 mvolts when connected but I'm not certain if that's the reading when the flame is on or when it's off. I'm going to assume the flame should be on, would you have any idea about that since I'm going to test it out hopefully tonight when I get home.
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:45 AM   #6
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I measured the thermocouple and came up with 7.5 mV so I figured the unit was bad but first I wanted to really scrape it extra clean and see if it got any better. While doing that I noticed that the thermocoupler was actually making contact with the bottom of the flue housing. I took a screwdriver and twisted things around a little until there was a good space there and the thermocouple wasn't touching aything and then tested it again. This time I measured 14.5 mV which is still not enough but apparently it's enough to make the unit work because I ran it all night and had no problems with the flame going out and the frig temperature was at 29 degrees this morning. I just finished ordering a new thermocouple at $15 from RVMOBILE.COM since the voltage level was to low and I don't want to chance it failing at a bad time. I'll keep the old one as an emergency spare too. Thanks for the help Jeff. I really learned a lot about these units from working this problem.
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:58 AM   #7
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I know someone with this same issue. I'm betting he has the same fridge. He has had it fixed under warranty many times. It will work for one trip after repar then die again. I've advised him to ask for a replacement fridge before his warranty is out.
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:41 AM   #8
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Max,

Good to hear that you got it going, and that it was something simple.

Jeff
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Old 10-14-2006, 07:03 PM   #9
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The symptoms you describe tend to make me believe that your control board has failed and needs replaced. Use a Dinosaur brand board for replacement. Mark's RV has them for @$105.00 or so and $6.50 or so to ship.
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Old 10-17-2006, 04:53 PM   #10
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Well, with the new thermocoupler installed I measured the voltage across it at 32mV. That was up significantly from 14.5mV. I also ran the frig off propane using 12V power and the shore line disconnected for 3 days and 3 nights. The batteries were even a little low at 12.12V DC this morning and it was still working just fine with the temperature varying from 28 degrees in the morning to 35 degrees in the late afternoon and nothing stocked inside it. I believe it's fixed so I'm ready for dune season.
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:22 PM   #11
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Whew. At least the beer is safe.
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:14 PM   #12
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Got that right.
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Old 10-30-2006, 12:35 PM   #13
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Just an update for anyone who followed the thread. Had a great trip at Glamis over the weekend because the frig never went above 40. Never had to reset it even once and I had it on for the 4 hour drive to and from the dunes. I'd have had even more fun if I'd caught the guy who stole my ice chest on the 2nd night.
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Old 10-30-2006, 05:49 PM   #14
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i'll bet it was full of Beer huh
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