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Old 02-19-2016, 01:10 PM   #29
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YES......
Burnishing new brake shoes to drum surface is correct and recommended.
One only needs to read a trailer brake mfg. manual and will see the recommended procedure to 'burnish' brakes

The brake shoes do not make full contact with drum surface when new due to differences in drum roundness and brake shoe arch so maybe only center of shoe will make contact or maybe just ends of shoes will make contact.

Breaking them in (burnishing) wears off high spots so that full brake shoe material makes full contact with drum surface. (as much as is possible)

NEW trailers braking improves over time...usually after 100 miles of usage as the brake shoes start making better contact with drums

Going out and doing the routine of aggressively using brakes (40 mph to 20 mph slowing down cycles) breaks them in quicker so you have better braking action sooner. Aggressively using them means 'hard braking' but NOT FULL ON TIRE SMOKING/LOCKUPS.
Just a rapid decrease in speed then off of the brakes....repeat

This is NOT abuse nor will it harm anything. Actually the faster brake shoes match drum surface the better (less abuse). More brake shoe surface being used the less stress to the whole assembly
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:20 PM   #30
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I guess everyone is entitled to an opinion. So when I buy my next new truck I should burn the brakes in also. Might as well over rev the engine and drive it like I stole it. LOL
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:48 PM   #31
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I guess everyone is entitled to an opinion. So when I buy my next new truck I should burn the brakes in also. Might as well over rev the engine and drive it like I stole it. LOL
Since most vehicles today have disc brakes, that is not necessary. Otherwise, Old-Biscuit is right, the arc of the drum and the arc of brake shoes will not necessary be identical initially, so full contact will not happen.

Also, 'over revving' an engine implies exceeding the red line. Otherwise, manufacturers recommend a break-in period with varying the rpms across the full engine range.

But, yes it is your truck so you can drive it like you stole it.
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:18 PM   #32
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Can anybody help me?

We got way off the subject here guys! Don't mean to criticize anyone, but I need help with this problem! I have 12volts on both sides of the factory plug under the steering wheel, but only 10 @ the pin box. Can anybody supply with a routing/wiring diagram how the blue wire gets from this plug to the 7 pin? What plugs it goes through, where they're at etc? Please.
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:56 PM   #33
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We understand the volts at the pin box is 10 ,,what's the volts at the rear of the truck in the outlet . Is there a problem with the truck to trailer connection.

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Old 02-19-2016, 06:12 PM   #34
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Please restate year and model of your truck? Don't have any diagrams handy. But as I recall the blue wire has nothing to do with the brakes. It is a 12v feed only, but I may have it wrong. The brake wire will not have voltage on it unless the brake controller is activated.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:53 PM   #35
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Interesting , It seems that the industry standard for rv braking systems use a blue conductor color and always with the same pin location in the 7 pin connectors. The comment about no voltage is correct if the brakes are not applied. The Black conductor is normally the 12 volt power feed to the rv. The pigtail from the pin box to the truck has different conductor sizes within the jacket. 10 Ga. for brakes and power, 14 Ga. for turn signals.

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Old 02-20-2016, 12:37 AM   #36
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I guess everyone is entitled to an opinion. So when I buy my next new truck I should burn the brakes in also. Might as well over rev the engine and drive it like I stole it. LOL
Just for you 'birddog2you'

Good info concerning electric trailer brakes and pg 16. is about 'burnishing'

Learning something new is a good thing
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:55 AM   #37
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We got way off the subject here guys! Don't mean to criticize anyone, but I need help with this problem! I have 12volts on both sides of the factory plug under the steering wheel, but only 10 @ the pin box. Can anybody supply with a routing/wiring diagram how the blue wire gets from this plug to the 7 pin? What plugs it goes through, where they're at etc? Please.
Back on topic.......
You have three going in this thread Hitch/New Brakes/Brake DC

Hitch


New brakes has been covered


Brake DC

You stated you have 12V DC at receptacle on truck but only 10V at trailer.
Then issue is either with the trailer umbilical card plug...receptacle not making good contact, loose wiring in plug or bad connectors ----trailer side.

Check out pg 10 in this link
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...ric_Brakes.pdf
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:02 AM   #38
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Just for you 'birddog2you'

Good info concerning electric trailer brakes and pg 16. is about 'burnishing'

Learning something new is a good thing
You are correct, but with over 30 years experience and over 7 million miles of tractor trailer driving and a multitude of trailer brakes installed I would never do what has been suggested. Not only does it stress the frame,axles,brake pads, overheats the drums and leads to premature drum and brake pad failures all in an effort to "seat" the pads. Adjust the brakes properly and drive it. The brakes will seat themselves. I'm done...
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:25 AM   #39
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The comment about no voltage is correct if the brakes are not applied. The Black conductor is normally the 12 volt power feed to the rv. The pigtail from the pin box to the truck has different conductor sizes within the jacket. 10 Ga. for brakes and power, 14 Ga. for turn signals.

CLIFF
Cliff, thanks for the correction on wire colors, I couldn't recall and don't have access to the info
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:24 AM   #40
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TheOldMan76---
Have you tried pulling the e-brake pin and trying to move the trailer? If wiring/volts/amps are correct, you should not be able to move the trailer. I suggest you try this before any more work on wiring connections you have already so carefully done. If you can't move the trailer, I would say the brake system is working--If you still have no brakes when towing, and you believe the controller to be putting out correctly, then the problem is in the harnesses, and usually a loose connection in the junctions box where the 7-pin trailer harness connects to the system.
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:47 PM   #41
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I rethought what the OP mentioned,,,, He said he measured 12 volts either side of the connector UNDER THE STEERING WHEEL. To me that means in the cab under the dash near the brake controller. So we don't chase the wrong symptom we need more specific information. First, do we all agree there is no voltage applied to the blue brake conductor when the brake pedal is NOT pushed.
Second , What color conductor is the OP testing. Third, Do we all agree that if the E-brake-away pin is pulled that the power supply to operate the RV brakes comes from the RV battery,NOT the truck.
Each truck mfg'r has different harnesses. In fact they differ from year to year.
If I knew the make, model and year I could search the Shop Tech diagrams and locate the harness connectors. Harnesses tucked in along frame rails usually don't go into trouble. Most often problems are in the lousy truck outlet . Not to say it couldn't be elsewhere. I've trouble shot a bunch of inoperative trailer wiring systems in my shop and first place I look is at the rear of the truck.
I feel bad the op has a problem but I enjoy trying to help him thru his dilemma.

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Old 02-20-2016, 03:19 PM   #42
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Clifford J

The red wire to the controller supplies 12 volts from the brake switch when the pedal is depressed. The black wire is always hot 12v. Pulling the slide control all the way across supplies 12v to the blue wire from always hot source. What I'm describing in my previous posts, is with the slide control all the way over, this 12v supplied on the blue wire. Because the brake ckt is a series ckt back to where the coils are wired in parallel, voltage s/b constant 12v to that point.
Unplugging the trailer pigtail connector, reads 12v between blue and white. Plug it in, and voltage drops to 10 volts. I have 12 v on both sides of the controller plug at the factory harness. That connection is good. I have only 10 volts at the plug in the wiring harness ( with the trailer connected, so whatever is causing the voltage drop is aft of the controller harness. Another website post tells me that on the older trucks, the blue wire goes through the firewall via connector C-205. I believe that is where I will find the problem, however, I don't know which connector is C205. Can you point it out to me?
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