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Old 02-15-2016, 01:23 PM   #1
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Double the plastic plate:

I get a significant "bang" at the hitch when reversing direction, i.e. backing into the camping spot. It looks like the pin is moving up in the hitch, allowing the fifth wheel plate to tilt and bang against the frame of the hitch. I guess this is what they call "chucking". I have a good 1/2" between the round plate on the bottom of the hitch pin and the hitch jaws. I just wonder why I couldn't add another plastic lube plate and take out another 1/4" of slop. Anybody have this problem?
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:23 PM   #2
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That is not chucking. Also with pin weight it should not move up.
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:34 AM   #3
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Mine did that when I had 3/16 play fore and aft in my jaws on the hitch. X2 on the pin weight will not let it move up and down.
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:31 AM   #4
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Are you high hitched??

Pin box plate (where king pin is) and 5th wheel hitch plate should be in full contact when properly hitched (except for the lube plate in between). Plates should be compressing lube plate.

Hitch should tilt fore and aft but if both plates are making full contact the movement will be limited by the fixed position of the pin box.

What hitch do you have?

When you hitch up do you lower pin box plate so that it is lower than 5th wheel hitch plate and then back under pin box----pin box plate should slide UP slanted area of 5th wheel hitch plate and then king pin slip into slot and jaw(s) slam closed around king pin.
Also there should NOT be any slop/gap between king pin and jaw(s) when closed.
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:02 AM   #5
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Banging

I'm new to this fifth wheel thing. I've never backed into the hitch with the jaws closed, I always latch them open, then lock the hitch after the pin is in place. Is this wrong? Would that make a difference if I did it the other way? The thing tows nice, it just sometimes bangs when I back into place, not always. I intend to get everything weighed, but just replaced all the brakes (backing plates etc.), and am still trying to get them working right. (I wouldn't take it out on the road with the brakes like they are). So don't know what pin weight is. I've had my son watch as this banging happens, and what I've described is what he observed. I don't know how much slop there is between the pin and the jaws, his is a 30 year old 5er. Could there be that much wear? /the pin itself is not grooved. The trailer sets level when attached to the truck.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:10 AM   #6
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Once again.....

WHAT hitch---brand/model?
Does this hitch have a slding bar vs a jaw that wraps around king pin?

And are you backing into hitch with 5vr pin box lower than 5th wheel hitch plate? (should not be higher then lowered into hitch)
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:37 PM   #7
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Just to establish a starting point - - When hooking up, start with the hitch pin lower than the hitch a slight amount, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Connect the 7 pin electrical. Apply the manual brake slider to engage the RV brakes, then back into the king pin allowing the RV to climb up the hitch. Now, see if you still have the problem.
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOldMan76 View Post
I'm new to this fifth wheel thing. I've never backed into the hitch with the jaws closed, I always latch them open, then lock the hitch after the pin is in place. Is this wrong? Would that make a difference if I did it the other way? The thing tows nice, it just sometimes bangs when I back into place, not always. I intend to get everything weighed, but just replaced all the brakes (backing plates etc.), and am still trying to get them working right. (I wouldn't take it out on the road with the brakes like they are). So don't know what pin weight is. I've had my son watch as this banging happens, and what I've described is what he observed. I don't know how much slop there is between the pin and the jaws, his is a 30 year old 5er. Could there be that much wear? /the pin itself is not grooved. The trailer sets level when attached to the truck.
#1, don't use 2 plastic lube plates, in fact I suggest trying it w/o any lube plate. It is possible that the lube plate is actually too thick and keeping the jaws from actually closing tightly around the pin.

#2, as already suggested, when hooking up, the hitch plate should be higher than the king pin and as you back into the pin, the trailer weight will compress the truck's suspension and also insures that the king pin is at the right height for the jaws to close properly. But again, a lube plate may prevent proper hookup by keeping the pin too high relative to the hitch.

#3, it is almost universally stated that hookup should be done with the jaws closed, that is the instructions from most hitch manufacturers. Having stated that, I do the opposite. I hook up with the jaws open, have done so for 16 yrs now. I can hook up w/o banging into the fiver, just 'kiss' it. No need to have the wheel chocked or trailer brakes applied. And I don't do a pull test. If the lock bar closes freely, then there should't be a problem. And I have the jaws painted white so I can visually confirm that they are fully closed around the king pin.

#4, the king pin is supposed to be 2 inches in diameter, the closed jaws should be no more than 2-1/4 inches wide. If your numbers are different, then it may be time for a new king pin box or a new hitch.

#5, it is normal for the bottom of the pin to be below the bottom of the jaws. On older hitches that don't have side tilt capability (like my antique one), this gap is the only way for hitch to have some give when the truck and trailer are out of level. Without this gap it would be impossible to properly latch the hitch when hooking up on uneven terrain.
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:20 PM   #9
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What hitch is a question that has not been answered yet. Most hitches I am familiar with state to have the jaws open prior to backing in. Also, a good practice is to not pin the handle in the open position. My B&W Companion, handle stays back and jaws stay open during the hitch process. Once I am backed in, the jaws close and the handle goes to the lock position. I do have to insert a pin as s safety measure to prevent accidental unlocking.
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:05 PM   #10
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I have a Draw-Tite hitch, and it is supposed to be closed when hooking up. I was told by a very experienced RV dealer that that noise and "play" fore and aft is normal. I'm not sure the OP has a problem.
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerreknit View Post
I have a Draw-Tite hitch, and it is supposed to be closed when hooking up. I was told by a very experienced RV dealer that that noise and "play" fore and aft is normal. I'm not sure the OP has a problem.
Per OPs 1st post

I have a good 1/2" between the round plate on the bottom of the hitch pin and the hitch jaws.

That sounds like a problem to me.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:08 PM   #12
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I think what the OP is describing is the lip or the shoulder on the end of the pin. The lip that prevents the pin from lifting out of the jaws. There can't be zero clearance between the bottom of the jaws and the lip of the pin.

CLIFF
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:05 AM   #13
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I have a feeling the OP is describing his trailer brake controller being set with the gain too high. That or a brake problem after replacement. So as he's reversing into his spot and applying the brakes the trailer brakes are in essence locking up and causing the front of the trailer to wedge up creating the bang and the gap he is seen between the kingpin in the hitch. Try lowering the gain to 6 or 7 and see if that fixes the problem. If you recently replaced the brakes you maybe have an electrical brake issue.
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:49 AM   #14
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Hitch

OK, it's a B&W hitch. Don't know any more than that, it came with the fifth wheel, and was pretty scuzzy, so I disassembled it, sandblasted it and painted, so brand name, model etc. is not discernable. It does side tilt. I am having a brake problem, trying to get the new brakes to work properly. Chasing low voltage right at the moment, still looking for a corroded or loose connection.
The banging occurred before installing the new brakes. I'll know more when I get this problem solved. I'm still concerned about the vertical1/2" between the
jaws and the plate at the bottom of the pin when latched. Will someone look at theirs and tell me if this is normal?
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