Community Forums

steve11669 · 06-17-2018, 02:21 AM

There is a second bolt a few inches to the right in your picture? Why not out the clamp bracket under that screw?

CecilD · 06-18-2018, 04:43 PM

I would drill it out and tap some threads then replace it with a machine screw. My standard procedure. My guess is the reason the screw failed was because it was over torqued during installation with an impact tool. Tek screws allow for fast construction but are not always the best fastener solution.

ALLOY · 06-18-2018, 09:08 PM

**Teck screws are super hard. Harder than the steel frame. Drilling a teck screw is an operation that ends up with many dull or broken drill bits and an oblong hole.

The fasteners holding the underbelly will pop off with a claw hammer

Best way to get a teck screw out is to turn it out from the top with Visegrips

If you don't have experience (along with a really good tap) drilling and tapping steel may be another lesson in frustration.

Easiest/fastest is another teck screw next to the old one.

Cumminsfan · 06-19-2018, 08:26 AM

The I-beams strength is in the web. Drilling into the lower flange with a 3/16" to 1/4" hole will do nothing to weaken the I-beam. If it did then RV MFG's would not be fastening items to the lower flange. I've hung all sorts of things off the lower flanges on my trailers with zero issues.
Like others have mentioned just move the clamp over and attach it there.

TripleEEE · 06-19-2018, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

The I-beams strength is in the web. Drilling into the lower flange with a 3/16" to 1/4" hole will do nothing to weaken the I-beam. If it did then RV MFG's would not be fastening items to the lower flange. I've hung all sorts of things off the lower flanges on my trailers with zero issues.
Like others have mentioned just move the clamp over and attach it there.

Done and done. No need to overthink it.

plasma800 · 06-21-2018, 11:44 AM

The answer was..

zip ties...

I took a deeper look and it actually doesn't look like there was a screw there at all in the metal of the i frame, even though the coroplast looked like there was. 3 seconds with a drill bit told me I didn't have the right stuff. So I zip-tied it like crazy with really strong zipties, that will get me back on the road for a while.

That entire line of screws are drilled right in the center of the ibeam.. they aren't in the flange... so I had to just quick fix it for now.

tuffr2 · 06-21-2018, 03:07 PM

To me, a zip tie fix is permanent. Good job [emoji106]

Superburban · 06-21-2018, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

The I-beams strength is in the web. Drilling into the lower flange with a 3/16" to 1/4" hole will do nothing to weaken the I-beam. If it did then RV MFG's would not be fastening items to the lower flange. I've hung all sorts of things off the lower flanges on my trailers with zero issues.
Like others have mentioned just move the clamp over and attach it there.

Actually good design standards are the other way, you can mount to the web, and should leave the flanges alone. Look at any big rig, and you will even see that the cross members, and 5th wheel are mounted to the web.

MorganT69 · 06-21-2018, 03:39 PM

You could always use a pop rivet and rivet it in with existing hole.

Unplanned Tourist · 06-21-2018, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

The I-beams strength is in the web. Drilling into the lower flange with a 3/16" to 1/4" hole will do nothing to weaken the I-beam. If it did then RV MFG's would not be fastening items to the lower flange. I've hung all sorts of things off the lower flanges on my trailers with zero issues.
Like others have mentioned just move the clamp over and attach it there.

As stated by Superburban, the flanges are taboo to drill or weld on in big rigs. People do it, but at their own peril. I worked in the trucking industry for 40 years, so I speak from experience. The top and bottom rails are constantly under compression and extension forces. The web is fine for drilling.

That said, it seems the RV industry never got the memo! But these rigs are not anywhere near subjected to the loads and stresses of commercial rigs. A few small holes here and there will be fine.

Happy Glamping.

Cumminsfan · 06-21-2018, 05:56 PM

I've got about 50 holes in the bottom of my 5er from the self tapping 3/16" screws that hold the coroplast up. I highly doubt it's a strength issue. If it was then MFG would not be doing it.
If you cut all the way thru the flange then yes it will tear the beam. Thats not whats happening here.

Superburban · 06-21-2018, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

I've got about 50 holes in the bottom of my 5er from the self tapping 3/16" screws that hold the coroplast up. I highly doubt it's a strength issue. If it was then MFG would not be doing it.
If you cut all the way thru the flange then yes it will tear the beam. Thats not whats happening here.

Manufacturer doing it is one thing. Good luck finding any manufacturer that says it is ok. The best you will find, is that it is not recommended.

ALLOY · 06-21-2018, 07:19 PM

A Motorhome/HDT truck frame is high strength steel.

RV trailer frame is mild steel.

There are no coverall rules for drilling/welding to a frame.

plasma800 · 06-21-2018, 07:48 PM

come to find out, all of the smallish looking bolts left and right of in my photo are actually some sort of nail. My dealer suggested a tek bolt, so I picked up some small ones. I haven't had a chance to get to it yet.