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Old 10-23-2011, 08:25 PM   #1
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Question Ducting hose?

Does the propane furance have a ducting hose that is run into the RV's belly to release heat in that area?

I was recently looking into the belly due to a leaking galley tank and saw the length of hose lying there and wondered.

Is that the case (for heating the flooring). Seems rather wasteful (propane fuel and heat, not that RVs aren't ready and willing to release precious heat to the outside world, what with most not being that tightly made.)
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:36 PM   #2
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Depends on the unit, is an option a heated basement?
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:13 PM   #3
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Depends on the unit, is an option a heated basement?
Dang if I know. I just discovered the open length of duct hose lying on the belly of the RV. Seems a tacky cheap way to heat and saying it is an 'option' to having a heated basement...does one pay more for that minimal length of hose dropped through the floor?

It's a Cougar 310SRX if that helps.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:31 PM   #4
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From past experience owning a Cougar 5-r, Keystone does run ducting under the RV to allow the propane furnace to keep heat in the underbelly for the tanks & water lines. The underbelly is enclosed & the ducting isn't just dumped into the space, but the ductwork runs through it & connects to a register in the floor or toe-kick of some cabinetry inside the living space.

Is that length of duct your are referring to an open end piece or does it run somewhere & connect?

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Old 10-23-2011, 10:05 PM   #5
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It's, IMO, a useless selling point for the most part. My 5er had a 4" heat duct hose to the belly when new. I guess that it's supposed to keep the tanks from freezing if you are using the trailer in freezing weather. I found that this is a 'waste' of precious heat as most RV furnaces really do not have the warm air output to not only keep the coach warm but the belly pan area as well. Since most of us wont be using our trailers in below freezing weather, me included, I felt that I would be better off pulling that piece of ducting out and capping off the line's supply point. In doing this, my 5er stays toasty in 35-40 degree weather with less furnace roar time(and less $$ propane usage) plus those tanks wont freeze anyhow until it get to below 32* F and stays there for an extended period of time. Then, recall, a fluid, and an air column is considered a fluid, takes the path of least resistance and that piece of convoluted duct to the belly is often that path
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:12 PM   #6
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Dunno... I have one dumping in mine... Have one in my home's crawlspace too...
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:44 PM   #7
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From past experience owning a Cougar 5-r, Keystone does run ducting under the RV to allow the propane furnace to keep heat in the underbelly for the tanks & water lines. The underbelly is enclosed & the ducting isn't just dumped into the space, but the ductwork runs through it & connects to a register in the floor or toe-kick of some cabinetry inside the living space.

Is that length of duct your are referring to an open end piece or does it run somewhere & connect?

Lori-
It's an open end piece. Thus, why I questioned it. don't want to be pumping propane willy nilly. Bad enough the main bed sits over the tanks.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:50 PM   #8
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Exclamation heated 'basement' wouldn't be a selling point for me

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It's, IMO, a useless selling point for the most part. My 5er had a 4" heat duct hose to the belly when new. I guess that it's supposed to keep the tanks from freezing if you are using the trailer in freezing weather. I found that this is a 'waste' of precious heat as most RV furnaces really do not have the warm air output to not only keep the coach warm but the belly pan area as well. Since most of us wont be using our trailers in below freezing weather, me included, I felt that I would be better off pulling that piece of ducting out and capping off the line's supply point. In doing this, my 5er stays toasty in 35-40 degree weather with less furnace roar time(and less $$ propane usage) plus those tanks wont freeze anyhow until it get to below 32* F and stays there for an extended period of time. Then, recall, a fluid, and an air column is considered a fluid, takes the path of least resistance and that piece of convoluted duct to the belly is often that path
Agree. Now that I know what you've done to correct that 'option', I just might do the same. ( a 4' heat duct hose is an option? )..and again, the belly is not that air tight that heat would be contained therein to a great degree.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:03 AM   #9
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All depends on where you are parked, and if you are using the RV in winter.
Me....I must have the basement area heated, as I live in mine all year. It gets down to 20*F alot, and sometimes lower in winter. Sometimes snow up to 2-3ft
Don't want any water pipes to freeze and cause me a pile of $$$ to fix pipes, and water damage to coach.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:22 AM   #10
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All depends on where you are parked, and if you are using the RV in winter.
Me....I must have the basement area heated, as I live in mine all year. It gets down to 20*F alot, and sometimes lower in winter. Sometimes snow up to 2-3ft
Don't want any water pipes to freeze and cause me a pile of $$$ to fix pipes, and water damage to coach.

Full timer here also. Can agree if you live in an area where temps get as low as you quote, I'd want some heat in the basement also.

Thankfully No.CA. near the coast doesn't get quite that cold in the winter, more like rain forest area, so aside from bouts of cabin fever due to days of rain (which keep things warmer) no real cold weather. I'm not a person who likes the heat on at night any way. (whether it be in a house or RV). I generally use a space heater during the day and have jerry rigged 'curtains' across the room to cut down the living space that is heated.( Pinch those pennies hard!!) Usually refill the propane tanks once a year. mid-Nov thru mid-Feb are the coldest months, then it's bearable with some warm clothing.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:50 AM   #11
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Extra insulation for windows and roof vents help. I lived 7 years in santa Rosa, ca. I've spent alot of time in the N. Ca coastal areas. Lots of damp, rainy areas means mold and mildew. try to keep things dry and aired out. Once it gets started growing, its tough to stop. And the odors can get icky.

Also, as you are probly aware....illness can come from spores and such.

How about some mushrooms growing under the RV on the frame??
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:43 AM   #12
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My 2004 Sea Breeze is supposed to have a heated basement. I know the ducts are there and will check tomorrow to see if there are any open ones. If it keeps my feet from getting cold, the basement is going to stay heated.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:12 PM   #13
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Extra insulation for windows and roof vents help. I lived 7 years in santa Rosa, ca. I've spent alot of time in the N. Ca coastal areas. Lots of damp, rainy areas means mold and mildew. try to keep things dry and aired out. Once it gets started growing, its tough to stop. And the odors can get icky.

Also, as you are probly aware....illness can come from spores and such.

How about some mushrooms growing under the RV on the frame??
Yeah know Santa Rosa well, lived in Sebastopol 10yrs (coming from So CA) and now overlook Freestone (so you probably have an idea where I'm located). And I don't (RV) set on concrete or asphalt..... Sealed boards and will have weed/grass (winter is grass season here..horses are happy, but it grows so fast)abatement material and probably oyster shell laid down so there won't be any wading through muck to get to the RV(+ stepping stones.) I have a small 'patio' from the dirt access road to the RV steps at this point. No mushrooms growing on/under the frame. Only once when there was a small leak in the storage area, there was one tiny mushroom growing.

Despite the rainy season here, I prefer it over having lived in Half Moon Bay (across from the Marina, if you are familiar with the area) where you really get the moisture from the ocean all the time.

It's the lighting that concerns me (tho I love a good storm) but since I'm on top of a hill, I'm a prime target, but so far have been lucky and you can't beat the view overlooking the rolling hills towards Bodega and the ocean.

Have had the roof checked and sealed and window caulking redone, so pretty set (with exception of a 2012 scenario type sea level rise ) I do my best to keep hatches partly opened to let exchange of moisture from inside escape and in some areas have the Damp Rid moisture pellets set out, make sure the weep holes aren't clogged in the window frames. Electric space heater helps keep things dry.
I'm sure over time the RV would give in to the elements, but I'm hoping to find myself within four solid walls at some point in time in the future.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:54 PM   #14
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I have a 36TK3 MS and I installed an Electric Heater Coil in my Gas Heater Unit. This system is made by rvcomfortsystems.com ( Cheap Heat ) This system is an add on, and is ran on a 30 amp disconnect, 220 volts. I also ran one extra 4'' duct into my basement area. I installed a 4'' galv. connector to the open end of the duct hose and pinched it down to about 3/4'' opening. I too was afraid that a 4'' open duct was going to be too much heat going into my basement area. I installed my heater coil this year and as of now I've have not tried it. Our weather is going to get into the 40's this weekend and will try it then. This system should save me allot of money in the long term from propane use. I too think that heating the basement area in the winter should help with freezing of tanks and pipes. I will try to keep every body up to date on this upgrade.
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