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Old 12-24-2011, 04:26 PM   #113
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What I was trying to point out that there is not a lot of heat transferring to the fire box inside the heater unit. Looks like that 95% of the Cheap Heat coil heat is going through the duct work and inside the RV. So this should not interfere with the gas unit over heat switch. Also with the fresh air traveling through the gas flame port with no heat from the fire, it's keeping the fire box cool from any heat transfer from the heater coil. I feel that this Cheap Heat system is close to 100% efficient heat.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:27 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by TXiceman View Post
Paw John, there is a big difference with the electric and the gas heat. When on gas heat, you are burning a propane flame in the burn chamber and the efficiency of the heater is not very high, probably about 60%, so a lot of the heat goes up the flue.

When on electric, the heat source on the outside of the burn chamber and you are wasting some heat as you are heating the chamber and letting the heat goes up the flue. The way to get away from the wasted electrical is to use a separate fan fro the electric heat.

ken
I'm not following your logic. In a a stock furnace, air to be heated is drawn from inside the RV by the blower. From the blower, the air passes over the heat exchanger, then goes into a plenum for distribution to the ductwork. When Cheap Heat is added, the coils are added between the heat exchanger and the plenum. The air passing over the heat exchanger is still the air inside the RV. The exchanger isn't going to pick up enough heat to warrant complicating the installation with an extra fan.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:29 PM   #115
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Ok I had my son over this morning and we checked the draw on the 50 amp service. With every thing off except the converter. One leg had 0 draw and the second leg had .7 amp draw from the converter. I turned on the Cheap Heat system and one leg went to 20 amps and the other leg was at 19 amps. Turned on the electric hot water heater, the ice box on electric and all the lights that I could reach with out sliding the slides. The amp draw was 22 amps and 23 amps on the other. The only thing that I didn't turn on was the microwave. Also I checked the Cheap Heat system on start up the draw spiked to 22 amps and then dropped to the above readings. Hope this helps any of you make your mind up if this system is for you.
Thanks for the figures. What was the voltage?
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:29 PM   #116
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The blower circulates the inside air and it has a shaft on the blower that extends to a blower inside the combustion chamber. Any time the blower runs, both blowers run and as a result it will exchange heat from the hotter inside air to the cooler outside air being drawn through the combustion chamber.

The newer furnaces use a forced air fan on the combustion side. You notice when you first start the propane furnace, the blower comes on and this clears the combustion chamber of any leaked propane. Once a timer times out, the propane valve is opened and the ignitor starts. The propane has to ignite and heat a safety interlocked thermocouple to keep the heater running. If the flame does not start, the heater will shut off the propane flow and depending on the manufacturer, it may try two more starts before the propane valve is locked out and will require resetting.

In any case, the point is that with the electric heated version will loose some heat through the combustion exchanger.

Ken
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:50 PM   #117
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The voltage on the two legs are 120 volts each.

As for what TXiceman is saying its true that the heater unit on a camper does lose heat from the gas fire blower. The only thing that making them mad is all the BS they are saying about the Cheap Heat System has no truth about it. I know first hand that this system works and that the small amount of heat loose is minimal. The heat transferred in the gas box is so slight and should never cause any problems with the gas heater system. TXiceman stated that the gas heater is only 60 percent effective and if I would have a guess the Cheap Heat System is about 95 percent effective. I feel that I'm a winner with this system in my caper.
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:50 PM   #118
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The blower circulates the inside air and it has a shaft on the blower that extends to a blower inside the combustion chamber. Any time the blower runs, both blowers run and as a result it will exchange heat from the hotter inside air to the cooler outside air being drawn through the combustion chamber.

The newer furnaces use a forced air fan on the combustion side. You notice when you first start the propane furnace, the blower comes on and this clears the combustion chamber of any leaked propane. Once a timer times out, the propane valve is opened and the ignitor starts. The propane has to ignite and heat a safety interlocked thermocouple to keep the heater running. If the flame does not start, the heater will shut off the propane flow and depending on the manufacturer, it may try two more starts before the propane valve is locked out and will require resetting.

In any case, the point is that with the electric heated version will loose some heat through the combustion exchanger.

Ken
Considering how low the temperature difference between the inside air being drawn over the heat exchanger and the outside air being pulled through it, I seriously doubt enough heat is being lost to worry about. And it still beats the hairy heck out of burning propane.
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:16 AM   #119
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Merry Christmas To All. I hope everyone has a great day. Be Safe for the Holidays.

From Paw John & Maw Maw Krista
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:40 AM   #120
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Cheap Heat Update

I was just on the rvcomfortsystem site and read that they put out a warranty news release. I thought that every one would like to know. The cheapheat system is UL Certified in accordance with ANSI ( American National Standards Institute ) standards. Also it is in compliance with RVIA ( Recreation Vehicle Industry Association ) They received documentation confirming RVIA compliance. If any body has any doubts go to the site and see for your self. This system is the way to go and hopefully the RV manufactory's will soon come to their senses and offer this system at the build time. Win Win for every body in the future !!!!!
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:47 AM   #121
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February Camping Trip

The wife & I will be going on a camping trip in Feb. We will be at the Fairview Riverside State Park in Madisonville Louisiana from Feb. 15th thru Feb. 21st. We will be making a couple parades, one in Mandeville the Friday night and one in New Orleans the Saturday. ( Mardi Gras ) If anybody is in the area and would like to see the Cheap Heat System work first hand come by. Send me a message and I will meet you. I hope the weather works with us this year, because two years ago it snowed and temp. dropped to 25 degrees. Also Ali will be with us ( my Yellow Lab ). I'm not sure if any of the Kids and Grand Kids will make it this year. I hope every body had a good Holiday Season.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:29 AM   #122
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I know this thread has gray hair by now but I wanted to mention that Cheap Heat now has a Stand-A-Lone (their spelling, not mine) unit. It has its own fan so it doesn't require installing on an existing furnace. That will take care of any concerns of heat being lost to the outside (which I feel, and Paw John verifies from actual use, is not enough of a concern to worry about). The unit is aimed at the Park Model market but can also be used in RVs parallel with existing furnaces when there isn't room for the Add-On unit. The Stand-A Lone, like the original Add-On, is both UL listed and RVIA compliant.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:26 AM   #123
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We had a good trip last month during the Mardi GRAS week. My cheap heat system work perfectly. For all of you that said the 12 volt blower motor noise is too load. I think that the noise you are hearing is the gas side operation of the heater. The unit stays on to heat the camper to the set temperature and shuts off. Then only comes on for one minute at a time to maintain the set temperature. The noise level from the heater is nothing like when the gas system is being used. When my family visited our unit they notice the even heat that the camper stayed. I love my winter camping trips now
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:47 AM   #124
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Just thought I would pass on some good news about the Cheap Heat Syetem. Any body can purchase direct from the manufactory and save the instalation cost by installing it yourself. Just think this system went from about $1500.00 / 1700.00 dollars to $ 700.00 dollars cost, this is an estimate. It shouldn't be long and the RV manufactor's will be forced to install during the building of new RV's.
So go to the web site and chect this out, rvcomfortsystems.com and see for yourself.
Now if only this site would put me back as a regular member not a commercial member I would be happy!!!!!

Googd luck in the future and I guaranty if you install this system you will be happy too!!!
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:02 AM   #125
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We had somebody at out park last fall with 2 power cords and they didn't like paying for 2 sites they would sneak out after dark and plug the second cord in I put in another camper next to them. You might want to think of how you do your install and that a heat pump AC unit will cost less and work just as well. They finally moved about 15 miles down the road and I called the owner to tell him what was going on. he wasn't impressed either. The whole system seems a waste of time and money to me but I love my heat pump
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:19 PM   #126
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...You might want to think of how you do your install and that a heat pump AC unit will cost less and work just as well...
Not necessarily. If a person has two good A/Cs already, replacing them with heat pumps may not be cost effective plus one still would have to depend on the gas furnace for when it gets too cold for the heat pumps to work. One would have to analyze each situation to determine what would be cost effective or not.
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