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Electrical Issues on 2011 Sabre
Old 05-16-2011, 10:39 AM   #1
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We have used our new trailer three times now and the first time we connected to 30 amp and had no issues with power. The second time, we plugged into 50 amp and couldn't get power right away. We thought it might be the connection at the park so Lance played with the cord and we got power but fried the brand new microwave. Replaced the microwave and plugged into 50 amp again this weekend and fried the microwave again and couldn't ever get the power to work. So, basically we camped in a $30,000 tent on wheels in Austin this weekend. Luckily, it wasn't too uncomfortable with the windows open and we made a trip to Walmart for lanterns. The trailer is going in for repairs but I am wondering if anyone with more experience than us has had this kind of issue.

Thank you!

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Old 05-16-2011, 11:12 AM   #2
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I would have the electric system checked by an electrician to make sure the wiring is correct. I do not believe an RV tech is qualified to do it.

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Old 06-04-2011, 12:58 PM   #3
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Please update if you find out what the deal is. I have been looking hard at these Sabres and am very curious to know. Where did you buy the trailer at?
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:22 PM   #4
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Has someone installed a new plug on the end of the cord? If the microwave fried did you actually get smoke out of it? Did you have it replaced under warranty?
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:30 PM   #5
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It sounds like you may have tripped the main breaker and or the microwave breaker. If you have a voltmeter take voltage reading at the power pedestal. If the main breaker is tripped unplug the microwave before resetting the breaker. Also take voltage readings the microwave receptacle.
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefw View Post
Please update if you find out what the deal is. I have been looking hard at these Sabres and am very curious to know. Where did you buy the trailer at?
Yes, the problem was found and repaired. We were told that it was just a fluke thing but a main ground wire had come loose (which makes sense with the memory of a horribly rough road that we encountered before we started having issues) and so the electrical systen did not have the correct protection and so not only the microwave but the converter and the television were blown also. We were actually pretty lucky that the trailer didn't catch fire when we were trying to get the power working. We bought this trailer from family RV in Sweetwater, Texas and they have gone out of their way to take care of this problem for us. We are headed out for our family vacation soon so we will know for sure if the problem has been resolved completely.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:12 AM   #7
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Sometimes the terms "ground" and "neutral" are used interchangeably. A ground would not have caused your problem but a neutral would. In a 50 amp. service the neutral is the reference between the two live phases(legs). When the referenced(neutral) is lost the voltages between the two live legs can swing wildly depending on how each live leg is loaded. It is possible to have a voltage on one leg at 240 volts and the other at zero. It's not likely it got that high but it could have gotten to 150 volts or more causing your appliances to short.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:19 AM   #8
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I'm going to show my still new to RV ignorance and ask if a surge protector could have prevented something like this from happening?
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:32 AM   #9
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A surge protector would have prevented this from happening. But Keep in mind this is not a surge it's a high voltage condition brought about by a "lost" neutral and the surge protector would(should) have taken out the circuit on both counts(voltage over 132 volts and lost neutral). A surge protector is two devices in one, a surge protector and a high and low voltage limiting device. The difference between a surge and a high voltage condition is the voltage level and duration.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:38 AM   #10
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Thank you.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:45 AM   #11
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RJay,
Being kind of dumb on electrical things, and thinking about a surge protector purchase--in the case mentioned, how does this work when the problem was 'downstream' of the surge protector, not coming into it?
Thanks,
Joe
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RcknRVer View Post
Yes, the problem was found and repaired. We were told that it was just a fluke thing but a main ground wire had come loose (which makes sense with the memory of a horribly rough road that we encountered before we started having issues) and so the electrical systen did not have the correct protection and so not only the microwave but the converter and the television were blown also. We were actually pretty lucky that the trailer didn't catch fire when we were trying to get the power working. We bought this trailer from family RV in Sweetwater, Texas and they have gone out of their way to take care of this problem for us. We are headed out for our family vacation soon so we will know for sure if the problem has been resolved completely.
A disconnected ground wire would cause that. I wonder why the main breaker didn't trip with all that power running crazy. Hmm. Good luck with it!!
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:35 PM   #13
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First: is this a 30 amp or a 50 amp rig? And how did you do your 30 and 50 amp plug-ins.

If it is a 50 amp rig I would pay particular attention to the plug wiring.. Step one is to TURN OFF the main breakers, you want all breakers off in fact.

Now this is one of the few times where a voltmeter is a MUST, a test lamp simply is not good enough. (Usually I recommend test lamps)

Remove the cover from the breaker box, CAREFULLY (There is dangerous voltage in this box and enough current to make you late, as in The Late ___Your name here____) and that is not a joke.

Carefully measure from the WHITE WIRE Bus to each of the main breakers (if 50 amp) or THE main (if 30 amp)

Meter set on the 250 or higher voltage range.

You should see 120 volts, 125 tops, If you see 240 you have a problem

NOTE: 50 amp rigs plugged into 50 amps 240 volt between the two breakers... IS normal. But breaker to white wire is always 120 volt.

Any other reading, New rig, Call dealer and schedule. (110-125 is acceptable)

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