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Old 04-21-2015, 08:25 PM   #491
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Thanks for all the suggestions on what to be checking when we pick up our RV. Having had a 1991 airstream for the past 10 years my wife and I are looking forward to having more space in the new 5th wheel. Grand Kids have already been picking out their sleeping spots.
Tim
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:39 PM   #492
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I just went outside and had a look at the slides sticking out (which they do) but this is not a problem because the portions sticking out aren't part of the slide compartment. If you look up under the edges you will see it is just skirting.
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:14 PM   #493
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Originally Posted by RichnAna View Post
The Girard tankless water heater has been outstanding and very reliable, uses very little propane and would want one on any rv I got in the future.
I have a tankless in my home and it has save me a bundle in propane cost and thanks for the fix info on how to make it work properly in the rv
We have a 365RL '13
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:30 AM   #494
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Ready to Go

We bought our 365RL late last fall and had little time to find and fix the usual issues you can expect with new trailer before we had to put it away for the winter.This spring we finished up and I think our camping season can finally begin.We have replaced the Dometic 310 toilet (which wouldn’t seal), installed a new propane regulator on the door side (which was leaking), filled or caulked a couple of places in the bedroom where daylight was peeking through and installed 6 battens on the slides where Evergreen forgot to do so.Evergreen supplied the battens.
If you’ve been following the forum with some care, you know that the failure of the little red regulator is caused by improper routing of the propane lines, which causes back pressure on the regulator.Our dealer came out and rearranged the lines and thoroughly tested the system, including ensuring that the propane pressure was at least 11” w.c.I think I could have re-routed the lines myself, but I had no way of testing the system afterward, and Evergreen agreed to reimburse the dealer for ½ hour of labor.
When we replaced the toilet, we found ourselves with a very bad water hammer effect, so bad it felt like the whole trailer was vibrating when the toilet closed, and it was clear that the problem had to be addressed before it did some serious damage to the pipes.It turns out that there are two ways to solve this problem.One (which I discovered by surfing the ‘net) is to drain the entire system and all lines, to allow the air pockets built into the system to re-establish themselves.If you’ve winterized your system, you can do this before you flush out the antifreeze.This actually works, but I worried about whether or not the water hammer would eventually return, so I also used the other solution.The other way is to install a water hammer arrester at the toilet line (or near whatever appliance is causing the effect).An earlier posting by one of our members identified one at Lowe’s that will do the job.I used one from Home Depot that also does the job and is slightly smaller (Water-Rester ½ inch pex tee water hammer arrester).It’s pretty easy to install even for a plumbing klutz like me, and it takes about 20 minutes or so.
Our remaining issue was – you guessed it – the Atwood on demand water heater.In mid April our RV resort turned on the water and we hooked up.At first the heater wouldn’t work at all, but eventually I discovered a loose wire connection and it began to fire for us.But the best way to describe our heater performance is to say that it produced some “warm” water.I tried all the troubleshooting tricks in the manual without much satisfaction.I finally called the Atwood customer service line (866-869-3118) and they walked me through some testing to see if the heater was actually performing according to spec, even if the water was only warm.In our case, we were getting sufficient flow (about 1.2 US gallons per minute) at the tap.The water temperature at the sink was coming out at 99 degrees F at the kitchen tap, 97 degrees F at the bathroom tap and 101 degrees F at the shower head.The key piece of information supplied by Atwood is that the heater is designed to add 50 to 60 degrees F to the temperature of the incoming water.Early in spring at our resort, the water coming out of the ground was showing as a very cold 46 degrees F, so at the temperatures I was seeing in the trailer, the heater was heating up to specification.Not happy with those inside temperatures, I’ve been looking for ways to heat the water further.Two suggestions from Atwood: one is to run your heater from your freshwater tank (with the tank heaters on), and the other is buy a heated water hose connection.I think the first suggestion will work if you don’t mind the pump running all the time; I tried the heated water hose and I don’t think it is the solution.My hose is 12 feet long so I only get 12 feet of warmed water before the cold enters the system again.I also tried some of the troubleshooting solutions suggested in the manual without much success.The one trick that seemed to help was to actually reduce the water pressure coming into the system to the point where the heater can keep up with the volume of cold water coming into the heater.I have an adjustable water pressure regulator (available from Camping World) and if I set it somewhere between 30 lbs and 40 lbs, I seem to get warmer water with a lesser flow (we can live with the lesser flow).In the end, though, I think we’re going to have to wait for summer weather and warmer water coming out of the hose before we’re happy with the system.We don’t want to spend the money (and the time) to replace the on demand heater with a conventional tank heater.
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Old 04-25-2015, 04:50 PM   #495
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Originally Posted by Radsyl View Post
We bought our 365RL late last fall and had little time to find and fix the usual issues you can expect with new trailer before we had to put it away for the winter.This spring we finished up and I think our camping season can finally begin.We have replaced the Dometic 310 toilet (which wouldn’t seal), installed a new propane regulator on the door side (which was leaking), filled or caulked a couple of places in the bedroom where daylight was peeking through and installed 6 battens on the slides where Evergreen forgot to do so.Evergreen supplied the battens.
If you’ve been following the forum with some care, you know that the failure of the little red regulator is caused by improper routing of the propane lines, which causes back pressure on the regulator.Our dealer came out and rearranged the lines and thoroughly tested the system, including ensuring that the propane pressure was at least 11” w.c.I think I could have re-routed the lines myself, but I had no way of testing the system afterward, and Evergreen agreed to reimburse the dealer for ½ hour of labor.
When we replaced the toilet, we found ourselves with a very bad water hammer effect, so bad it felt like the whole trailer was vibrating when the toilet closed, and it was clear that the problem had to be addressed before it did some serious damage to the pipes.It turns out that there are two ways to solve this problem.One (which I discovered by surfing the ‘net) is to drain the entire system and all lines, to allow the air pockets built into the system to re-establish themselves.If you’ve winterized your system, you can do this before you flush out the antifreeze.This actually works, but I worried about whether or not the water hammer would eventually return, so I also used the other solution.The other way is to install a water hammer arrester at the toilet line (or near whatever appliance is causing the effect).An earlier posting by one of our members identified one at Lowe’s that will do the job.I used one from Home Depot that also does the job and is slightly smaller (Water-Rester ½ inch pex tee water hammer arrester).It’s pretty easy to install even for a plumbing klutz like me, and it takes about 20 minutes or so.
Our remaining issue was – you guessed it – the Atwood on demand water heater.In mid April our RV resort turned on the water and we hooked up.At first the heater wouldn’t work at all, but eventually I discovered a loose wire connection and it began to fire for us.But the best way to describe our heater performance is to say that it produced some “warm” water.I tried all the troubleshooting tricks in the manual without much satisfaction.I finally called the Atwood customer service line (866-869-3118) and they walked me through some testing to see if the heater was actually performing according to spec, even if the water was only warm.In our case, we were getting sufficient flow (about 1.2 US gallons per minute) at the tap.The water temperature at the sink was coming out at 99 degrees F at the kitchen tap, 97 degrees F at the bathroom tap and 101 degrees F at the shower head.The key piece of information supplied by Atwood is that the heater is designed to add 50 to 60 degrees F to the temperature of the incoming water.Early in spring at our resort, the water coming out of the ground was showing as a very cold 46 degrees F, so at the temperatures I was seeing in the trailer, the heater was heating up to specification.Not happy with those inside temperatures, I’ve been looking for ways to heat the water further.Two suggestions from Atwood: one is to run your heater from your freshwater tank (with the tank heaters on), and the other is buy a heated water hose connection.I think the first suggestion will work if you don’t mind the pump running all the time; I tried the heated water hose and I don’t think it is the solution.My hose is 12 feet long so I only get 12 feet of warmed water before the cold enters the system again.I also tried some of the troubleshooting solutions suggested in the manual without much success.The one trick that seemed to help was to actually reduce the water pressure coming into the system to the point where the heater can keep up with the volume of cold water coming into the heater.I have an adjustable water pressure regulator (available from Camping World) and if I set it somewhere between 30 lbs and 40 lbs, I seem to get warmer water with a lesser flow (we can live with the lesser flow).In the end, though, I think we’re going to have to wait for summer weather and warmer water coming out of the hose before we’re happy with the system.We don’t want to spend the money (and the time) to replace the on demand heater with a conventional tank heater.
What is the capacity of your water heater you should be able to heat water too 120 degrees with 33 degree water ...
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:57 AM   #496
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Ah, I wish you were right, but we probably have to trust the information received from the manufacturer. Atwood does not argue that it can add 90 degrees to the temperature of the incoming water.
Perhaps you were thinking of a tank heater? By definition, a tankless heater has no tank and therefore no capacity.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:28 AM   #497
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Sounds like the water heater is too small. Not enough Btu's to heat the water.
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:07 AM   #498
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Sounds like the water heater is too small. Not enough Btu's to heat the water.
I think you're right about that. But Atwood doesn't offer anything larger than 50,000 BTU's as far as I can tell.
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:15 PM   #499
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Ready for pick up

Just notified by our dealer that our Bay Hill will be here this week. I was asked two questions by the dealer and I did not have an answer for them so thought I would pose those questions here:
1. They are offering an extended warranty of 4 additional years for $3800.00. MY question is this worth buying. Claim is that the extended warranty covers every aspect of the unit. Is it worth it or a waste of money to purchase?

2. Paint and fabric protection package. Dealer applied for about $3200. Same question worth the $$$$ or a waste of money?

Thanks
Tim
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:08 PM   #500
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Trail Master, Just my opinion but I would get the extended warranty and pass on the protection package. Just my opinion
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:51 PM   #501
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I would not get the extended warranty or the "protection" package.
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:12 PM   #502
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If you take that $3800 for the extended warranty package and put it into a saving account you should be able to replace most if not all appliances in your trailer. And even more $$ for the appearance package is even more ludricous. You can buy a lot of wax and pay someone to put it on for you for that much money.
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:51 PM   #503
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extended service plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trail Master View Post
Just notified by our dealer that our Bay Hill will be here this week. I was asked two questions by the dealer and I did not have an answer for them so thought I would pose those questions here:
1. They are offering an extended warranty of 4 additional years for $3800.00. MY question is this worth buying. Claim is that the extended warranty covers every aspect of the unit. Is it worth it or a waste of money to purchase?

2. Paint and fabric protection package. Dealer applied for about $3200. Same question worth the $$$$ or a waste of money?

Thanks
Tim
Keep in mind these plans are not extended warranty but service plans.
If you know your way around a tool box you should find that you can fix most smaller problems your self.
Just like your Bay Hill, sticker price on these plans are negotiable.
As far as the paint/fabric plan I wouldn't buy. Just like others have said you can buy a lot of wax and fabric cleaner. None of that is a hard job. Just keep up with it.
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:39 PM   #504
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Extended warranties are tricky. In most cases they are not worth the paper they are printed on. There are however a few and I mean a very few that may be worth while if you are looking for that kind of security.
If the warranty comes from the manufacturer which it rarely does, that might be worth while. Most dealers have these warranties from third party companies which the dealer gets a nice commission on the sale. If you look closely at these, you will see things that are covered. If you take a close look at the fine print, you will learn that there are many ways these companies get out of paying claims. One way is to make it so inconvenient for the claimant that they usually give up. There are some legitimate warranties that will state what is not covered and everything else is covered. That's not bad. The Good Sam Club has a decent policy and their reputation is on the line. Their new CEO Lonamis is making an effort to make Camping World and Good Sam a standard in the RV business. Here's the way I look at extended warranties. There is always a thought that everything is going to break at some time. Some of the components can be scary if they break down. The RV refrigerator is probably you most expensive appliance in the coach. That is why I am an advocate for a home refrigerator but unfortunately I didn't even take my own advice. The reality is that everything is not going to break down at once. Especially when you buy a brand new unit. Remember there are deductibles for each claim on these warranties. Keep in mind that many of the components have longer warranties than the Coach warranty and their warranties will apply before any extended warranty. One member of our forum mentioned to put the cost of the warranty in the bank and use that for any repairs. In reality that is the best advice because chances are great that you will have a good sum of money left over after the term period. You are actually becoming self insured. Now how do you pay for it. It would be great to have the cash and put it in an isolated bank account just for repairs. However if you were to purchase the warranty, they will just add it to the total cost of the coach and you will be paying it off over the term of the loan for the coach. That will mean you will probably be paying for this warranty even though the length of the warranty already expired. One way of handling this is to take out a credit card that you only use for RV repairs. When something happens, you use the specific credit card for the repair and then decide how long you want to stretch out the payment. Never pay just the minimum. Calculate the cost divided by how many months you want to pay it out. Don't be tempted to put anything else on that credit card. Choose a credit card that not only gives rewards, but also extends any warranty that comes with the purchase. You also gain some legal and financial rights when you make those repairs. Check out the best credit card company that enlists all these protections and sit back and enjoy your Coach. Chances are you will be using that credit card a lot less than you think and you will have more money in your pocket to enjoy the travels with your coach.
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