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Old 09-27-2016, 10:37 PM   #827
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schrod

Hey schrod, I got in touch with the head repair manager at the place I bought my bay hill 379fl and he said he would NOT use bed liner, he said even if you roll it flat it is still very abrasive and would probably give you problems with the rollers at some point. He recommends using Marine Grade Epoxy Enamel, said just a very thin coat should do the trick. He said if the rollers start to eat away at it then add another thin layer, jack up the slide a hair and slide a thin piece of aluminum along the full length of the slide out. cut the aluminum width a little over the width of the rollers. so your not coving the whole under slide with aluminum. make sure the screws are countersunk a bit so they wont catch on anything when slides go in. I will keep you posted when I am able to get at least a couple slides done.
Justin
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:30 PM   #828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrp123 View Post
Hey schrod, I got in touch with the head repair manager at the place I bought my bay hill 379fl and he said he would NOT use bed liner, he said even if you roll it flat it is still very abrasive and would probably give you problems with the rollers at some point. He recommends using Marine Grade Epoxy Enamel, said just a very thin coat should do the trick. He said if the rollers start to eat away at it then add another thin layer, jack up the slide a hair and slide a thin piece of aluminum along the full length of the slide out. cut the aluminum width a little over the width of the rollers. so your not coving the whole under slide with aluminum. make sure the screws are countersunk a bit so they wont catch on anything when slides go in. I will keep you posted when I am able to get at least a couple slides done.
Justin
Justin, I feel aluminum is a very bad choice. It is very soft and malleable. As the rollers travel over it, it is going to roll and pucker and this will cause more problems than it solves. If I am going to jack it up for clearance to put anything on it, it is going to be a sheet of thin plastic panel available at Menard's.

I have not yet done the bedliner. I am going to try it this week. I will try it on a board first to see how it turns out. What your repair manager does not understand is that I am going to smooth it out and not have it textured like a pickup bed. Smooth urethane is not abrasive but does provide a very good non-slippery surface. If I could get hold of two tall jacks, then I would put the plastic sheet from Menard's.
Rod
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:36 AM   #829
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Originally Posted by schrod View Post
Justin, I feel aluminum is a very bad choice. It is very soft and malleable. As the rollers travel over it, it is going to roll and pucker and this will cause more problems than it solves. If I am going to jack it up for clearance to put anything on it, it is going to be a sheet of thin plastic panel available at Menard's.

I have not yet done the bedliner. I am going to try it this week. I will try it on a board first to see how it turns out. What your repair manager does not understand is that I am going to smooth it out and not have it textured like a pickup bed. Smooth urethane is not abrasive but does provide a very good non-slippery surface. If I could get hold of two tall jacks, then I would put the plastic sheet from Menard's.
Rod
A couple of bottle jacks with 4x4's will work as well. And you're not limited to the use of long jacks.
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Old 09-29-2016, 05:13 PM   #830
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A couple of bottle jacks with 4x4's will work as well. And you're not limited to the use of long jacks.
Yes, I could do that and have a good 4X4 kick my brains in! Not doing that route. Tried something similar on the farm a few years back and that is not a good idea at all! Although the slide should not really be all that heavy, I still would not feel very safe with this approach.
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Old 09-30-2016, 12:33 AM   #831
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Some 1/8" 6061 aluminum won't crush. How's it going to crush when you have a flat hard surface right above it? I've seen others that have put strips of aluminum under their slides for the rollers to roll on and have had good luck with that.
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Old 09-30-2016, 12:10 PM   #832
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Some 1/8" 6061 aluminum won't crush. How's it going to crush when you have a flat hard surface right above it? I've seen others that have put strips of aluminum under their slides for the rollers to roll on and have had good luck with that.
I have had experience working with rolling metal to shape it. I know that it will gradually stretch and pucker. Aluminum is soft and very maleable.

The slide I have to do this to is the kitchen slide which is very heavy.

Cumminsfan you do your trailer that way, I will NOT do that on mine. Also you will have to use very short screws to attach it unless you want them to stick out the topside. Short screws in a strategic holding position are not going to stay in for very long.
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Old 10-04-2016, 07:23 PM   #833
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Under slides

Hi guys, I finally got around to coating 2 of my under slides which are the front living room slides on my 2016 379fl. After a full day of calling different places and talking to people I found what looks to be the best stuff for this project! I picked up a gallon of POR15 from my local automotive specialist warehouse. It is a 1 part system that brushes on like paint. I only put one coat on so far and this stuff is amazing, it hardens like concrete. They use this stuff on bridges and tanks lol. The guy I spoke with who recommended this said he has used it on all types of surfaces including wood with great success. It took only a couple hours to fully dry and then I put a very thin layer of silicone around all the edges where the POR15 meets up to the metal edging. I won't be leaving this campground until the end of the month and then heading south so I will probably put the slides in and out a few times, in a few days, to see how the rollers do. Schrod I would definitely get this stuff and return the bed liner. It is pricy as I paid 150 for the gallon but didn't even use half a quart, this stuff goes on very thin, and a little goes a long way. I am debating if I will even put a 2nd coating on.
FYI if it gets on skin wash it off right away, don't do this in an enclosed area, and wear clothes you don't care about. Don't forget glasses and I put a mask on as well. Buy a bunch of cheap brushes as once this stuff dries the brush is garbage. I also used the glad press and seal and covered the rollers and rubber edging under the slide as to not get any on those. Let me know if you have any questions.
Justin
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Old 10-05-2016, 08:08 AM   #834
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Justin,
POR15 is a rust preventative coating. From everything I read, yes you can apply it to wood but it has to be properly prepared. This product is primarily a metal coating product to stop rust.
I will stick with my bed liner. I am going to apply it in the undisturbed space between rollers first to see how well I like it. If I like it which I am pretty sure of, then I am applying it to the surface the rollers contact.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:34 PM   #835
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greasing the hitch

hey guys, have a brand new Curt Q20 slider hitch from factory, Looks like there are a few places that need greasing, anyone know how much I will need? I assume easiest to apply from a tube? Thanks in advance. Any other advice on this Hitch is appreciated.
Justin
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:44 AM   #836
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Yes there are 3 spots where it has stickers to grease. A tube may not reach. There are also rubber bushings inside that may need lube, especially the round one with the square hole. You need to take the top of the hitch off to access them. Tech guys at Curt recommend dielectric grease for the bushings. Bed rails also get a little rusty so you may want to touch them up.
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:37 PM   #837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrp123 View Post
Hi guys, I finally got around to coating 2 of my under slides which are the front living room slides on my 2016 379fl. After a full day of calling different places and talking to people I found what looks to be the best stuff for this project! I picked up a gallon of POR15 from my local automotive specialist warehouse. It is a 1 part system that brushes on like paint. I only put one coat on so far and this stuff is amazing, it hardens like concrete. They use this stuff on bridges and tanks lol. The guy I spoke with who recommended this said he has used it on all types of surfaces including wood with great success. It took only a couple hours to fully dry and then I put a very thin layer of silicone around all the edges where the POR15 meets up to the metal edging. I won't be leaving this campground until the end of the month and then heading south so I will probably put the slides in and out a few times, in a few days, to see how the rollers do. Schrod I would definitely get this stuff and return the bed liner. It is pricy as I paid 150 for the gallon but didn't even use half a quart, this stuff goes on very thin, and a little goes a long way. I am debating if I will even put a 2nd coating on.
FYI if it gets on skin wash it off right away, don't do this in an enclosed area, and wear clothes you don't care about. Don't forget glasses and I put a mask on as well. Buy a bunch of cheap brushes as once this stuff dries the brush is garbage. I also used the glad press and seal and covered the rollers and rubber edging under the slide as to not get any on those. Let me know if you have any questions.
Justin
Justin, I finally got my kitchen slide coated last week. Boy that bed liner was just as thin as paint and I got a few black spots on me! LOL After adding the activator it gets a lot thinner than just the base is. Anyway, I got it all covered just the same as if I had painted it. Application time is 2 to 3 hours so had plenty of time. I let what I had left over (I only mixed about 1/4 of it) sit and finally start setting up just a bit and put some of it into the small voids where the rollers had pulled out some of the original stuff whatever the h*ll it is. Now that it is dry, it seems very hard and I believe it will really last. When warm weather finally rolls around again, I will coat the two opposing living room slides but for now they show no signs of any damage so they can wait.
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:26 PM   #838
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Bay Hill by Evergreen

I just read that Evergreen has gone out of business in June 2016.
I own a 2014 Bay Hill 320 RS. We love it but have just discovered a major problem. The floor of the front slide is rotten from a water leak caused by a bad seal. This major repair cannot be done by local shops so they suggested I contact the factory. But they no longer exist. Now what can I do?
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:33 AM   #839
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Bayhill water damaged floor

If your slide floor has the Strand Board (OSB) it was probably because they should of used a aluminum "L" bracket to prevent the water from wicking effect an "L" bracket would of given it a drip edge and much more support! It's going to be expensive from the estimate I've gotten over $3000 to replace it as the flooring is over a 12' piece and has to be purchased at a speciality lumber company! Almost any RV repair shop should be able to do this, just do research on them on their quality of work! Good luck!
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:25 AM   #840
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Question Evergreen Bay Hill

Thanks for your information.
That is exactly what happened. There is no aluminum L bracket and I am wondering how such a vital piece could have been omitted in the design of this camper.
Where can I get more details that show the design of this slide out and its floor? We don't even know its dimensions.
I have contacted several RV shops in my area and have been told that they don't want to do the repair because the floor is too long and can't be purchased in one piece? I am also wondering if a different (non absorbing) material would be a better floor.
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