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Old 11-26-2019, 10:06 PM   #15
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We had Performance Trailer Braking change our to disc brake during the Heartland rally in June. The brakes do a great job for us. Coming down I-71 in Ohio we passed a camper sitting in a rest stop. Just 25 miles down the road they passed us doing about 75 or better. I asked my wife why run like that? As soon as I said that their left rear tire blew out throwing tire, fiberglass and rv pieces everywhere. They were about 25 yds in front when it blew. Luckily we could get slowed up and get around them without any damage.
Would the drum brakes had stopped us, maybe, but I do know the new disc brakes did work.

We have a 2018 Road Warrior 427, triple axle toy hauler. At the Heartland rally in Goshen we were in the infield.
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by xc-mark View Post
Our 2015 Redwood came from the factory with 7000 lb drum brakes. The gross weight of the trailer is 16500 and the factory shipping weight was 14300 empty . I have scaled it several times and it was right around 16200 ready to travel with food, water , etc. With the factory drums it would take over 300' to get it stopped from 65 MPH , in my eyes that not safe or even close to safe. In a panic stop I abused the truck brakes and damaged the front rotors on the truck. That was the final time that was going to happen , I talked to my wife and we decided to upgrade. I looked at doing a disk kit myself and found that $2000 and about 15~20 hrs of my time fixes the stopping issues. So now I am thinking what about Morryde IS at the same time and have them do everything. again talked it over and it took a little convincing but she gave me the go do it..... Looking back I upgraded to 8000lb running gear with disk brakes but WOW this 42' trailer feels a lot more stable and it will stop as fast as any car or passenger truck in a panic stop every time . I don't run on the highways faster then 70 but its good to know that 26,000 lbs combine will stop in about the same distance as unloaded. As for the Morryde independent suspension I will never own a trailer over 10,000lbs gross weight with out it. cost wise your at $7K out the door for both inc tax and labor. maybe a little less for 7000lb running gear. it rides so much better we can leave the coffee maker and the pot on the counter and lot think about it falling . I think the coach will last longer because the road shock is greatly reduced. I have molding and cabinet doors falling off every trip. Since replacing the buggy springs I have had zero repairs related to rough roads. We had rubber center trunnions before going to Morryde so I feel its just that much better and worth letting everyone else know. I don't work for Morryde , I drove 1850 miles round trip to get this done by myself and my wife and I both agree it was big money but the ride in the truck is better and the trailer doesn't need the cabinets restocked when we stop for the night.
I by no means am poo pooing or trying to start a debate about Mor Ryde IS and I'm a total advocate of disc brakes having had them on a previous Cameo and our current Lifestyle.
However, I'm surprised to hear that you had such issues with interior integrity, stuff staying put and an obvious rough ride.
I did order the rig with 8k axles and 17.5 Goodyear tires inflated to 115psi. It has the Mor Ryde center point equalizer and a Mor Ryde pin box. The 37' fiver weights 15400 lbs with empty tanks with weekend supplies. No shocks but I am planning to install them just to reduce rebound associated with leaf springs.
I have never had anything come apart in the rig in over 5 years and 30k miles. No clothes have come off the rod in the front closet, the tooth brush holder at the bath sink stays put, and the dining room chairs have never moved.
I also have a dually with a Trailer Saver air hitch. No ride issues in the truck or trailer. I guess if I did I would consider the IS.
But back to the point of this thread......yes, disc brakes are great. I know of only one draw back. If you loose a brake line due like due to a blow out you loose all the brakes. So make sure you have quality tires, too. If your ride inside the RV is ok, save the money on the IS. That's just my 2 cents.
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:21 PM   #17
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I believe that the brakes from stopyourtrailer.com have the Dacroment coating as well. By the way since the same company owns both Titan and Kodiak they are phasing out the Titan brand. As far as the brake line kit, I agree that the less rubber the better and the Kodiak kit does have rubber spanning the axles while the Titan kit has steel. The flex in rubber may cause a fraction of a second delay versus the rubber, however the Titan kit has 2 more fittings per axle to potentially leak. Pay your money and take your choice. The kit I received needed only brake fluid, grease, screws or bolts for mounting the actuator, and 3 10' or so lengths of wire for the actuator ( two 10 gauge wires were supplied and I don't know why all 5 required weren't). Everything else was supplied in good quality and quantity. As for customer support I can only speak to stopyourtrailer.com, and it was excellent. I made 3 calls to Bill, and he answered two of them and returned the third within a minute. I don't think that you can go wrong with either company.
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Old 11-26-2019, 11:20 PM   #18
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Many RV makers tend to cheap on many things. People seem to value blitz over quality and price point to features largely drives the market. So they use drum brakes.

I switched to Dexter 7k axles and disk brakes shortly after buying the 5th. I'll never tow another 5th with disk brakes. Night and day difference. I know some people love their drum brakes and I'm glad for them. But drum brakes are not for me.
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Old 11-27-2019, 07:25 AM   #19
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I think one ahould be careful when going to disk. Ask your self are your axle weights right? do you have an adequate truck to begin with. So many are overweight and overloaded to begin with. I could see many going to disk as a band aid for inadequate tow rig. Granted disk will help. But are they the solution i dont think so. Ive hauled a few heavy travel trailers with disk brakes and my teton with drums. Not huge diff. But i have plenty WHOOOA out front also.
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Old 11-27-2019, 07:40 AM   #20
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I got a quote from (stop your trailer) yesterday, and will do it before spring time.
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:06 AM   #21
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I can't believe the cavalier attitude some people, and manufacturers, take towards brakes. Brakes are the most important safety system on your vechicle. Taking even an inch further to stop than you have room for can cause a lengthy delay in your trip. A foot can ruin your day, and several feet can end your trip and possibly your life. How many times have you had to slam on your brakes (without towing a trailer) and stopped just a few feet shy of rear ending someone? What do you think would of happened with your ineffectively braked trailer in tow? We have the technology for better braking and the cost differential is fairly insignificant, so why don't we require trailer manufactors to supply their trailers with sufficient brakes. Right now they are getting away with the absolute minimum which is far from adequate!
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Old 11-28-2019, 12:08 AM   #22
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Does anyone make hydraulic actuators for those that need to stay with their drums?
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Old 11-28-2019, 05:41 AM   #23
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As with most factory installed items, the brakes on most trailers are the minimum required. The will work, but maybe with a lesser than desired effect. Remember Builders Grade equipment.
Over the years, I too have had frustrations with trailer braking. We were about to upgrade to disc brakes on our 5'er, when we traded for a MH. A dear friend who full times in their 5'er, upgraded to disc brakes and he swears by them now.
Your comfort level along with your gut will dictate what you do.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 11-28-2019, 07:02 AM   #24
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As with most factory installed items, the brakes on most trailers are the minimum required. The will work, but maybe with a lesser than desired effect. Remember Builders Grade equipment.
Over the years, I too have had frustrations with trailer braking. We were about to upgrade to disc brakes on our 5'er, when we traded for a MH. A dear friend who full times in their 5'er, upgraded to disc brakes and he swears by them now.
Your comfort level along with your gut will dictate what you do.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Yes disk may be great. But if your overloaded and not enough truck to begon with. Your not really do much. 2k on brakes when it should be a down payment on a proper size truck.
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:19 AM   #25
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I replaced the brakes on my Cedar Creek with disk brakes, best mod I ever did. Well someone else did the work, $2700 bucks
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:30 AM   #26
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Yes disk may be great. But if your overloaded and not enough truck to begon with. Your not really do much. 2k on brakes when it should be a down payment on a proper size truck.

While the brakes on most newer trucks are strong enough to handle the trucks rated payload or even light to moderate trailer loads, they are not designed to handle the weight of a hevay trailer. That is why trailers over a specific weight are required to have brakes. Do not rely on your truck to stop your trailer!
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:34 AM   #27
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Trailer drum brakes should be adjusted every 2k miles. When hauling a trailer, don't tailgate and always plan for a escape route, like hitting the shoulder. You really don't want to stop too fast, or everything will be rearranged/damaged inside the camper.
The newer trucks with exhaust brakes really take the load off the camper brakes, but you still have to plan ahead and anticipate stops.
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:50 AM   #28
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Does anyone make hydraulic actuators for those that need to stay with their drums?
Why do you have to stay with your drums?
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