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Old 10-10-2018, 04:09 PM   #15
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Not sure where you came up with the curb weight number, but you need to make sure it's not a number from anywhere else other than the sticker on the door post. That is the ACTUAL PAYLOAD capacity of THAT particular truck when it was built.

I got the curb weight from the door and also in the owners manual. That's also where I got the GVWR. With everything included I should be within the truck's limits.
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Old 10-10-2018, 05:26 PM   #16
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I've owned 4-5 different 5ths before going to a motorhome. My two cents are:
1. a fifth with hydraulic levelers is worth every penny extra you need to pay.
2. your truck will be fine with the fifth wheel you described but really, - try to stretch now to get one with auto leveling - especially if you are moving around a lot. The other thing is I wasted money "working up" to the fifth wheel I should have gotten in the beginning.
3. almost any brand name truck bed hitch will work - you don't need a slider if your pin is extended in most cases.
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Old 10-10-2018, 05:49 PM   #17
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I got the curb weight from the door and also in the owners manual. That's also where I got the GVWR. With everything included I should be within the truck's limits.
I does appear that you have roughly 3000 lbs of payload, but just to make absolutely sure.....look for the sticker/decal that states the actual payload or sometimes they call it....CCC Cargo Carrying Capacity.

The only reason that I am being so adament about this is because I don't want anyone else to make some of the same mistakes that I made a few years ago....which involved having to small of a truck for the size trailer that I had just bought. I ended up trading that truck for one that is more than enough for this trailer and plenty big for a 5ver up to almost 20,000 lbs.....and no one of my capacities would be exceeded even with a 20K trailer. Trust me, it get's expensive when you just buy a new trailer, then have to turn right around and get a different (bigger) truck. It was a hard lessen, but I try to share the knowledge that I've gained with folks to keep them from making a costly mistake.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:14 PM   #18
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All of the above are 'standards' .....some are COMMERCIAL and some are generic.


One thing that holds true.....NO statues/citations for GVWR.
There are for AXLE/Tire Load Ratings....those are the LEGAL standards



Many states allow registering your truck for higher GVW then the GVWR of truck...just pay the higher associated fee so MFGs GVWR is NOT a legal issue
Payload...that is based on GVWR minus GVW which doesn't mean you can't exceed it (note the registration info)
That leaves you with AXLE/Tire Load Ratings which ARE citable based on DOT regulations.


No one can post a 'statue' that one can be cited for if exceeding MFG GVWR
I honestly haven't researched your statement about posting a statue about being cited, but I will say this. Even though there may not be any legal statues about weight and overloading, a serious or fatal accident involving an overloaded truck/trailer will certainly bring out the lawyers like sharks circling blood in the water. In my opinion, knowingly driving/towing a rig that is overloaded (according to the very manufacturer of the vehicle who sets the capacity limits for that vehicle), would surely lead to a lawsuit against the owner of the vehicle and most likely, in my opinion, result in the judgement against the owner of the overloaded vehicle for some amount of dollars. Even if it is a fairly negligible amount of money, you are still spending your time and money for something that could be totally avoided with the correct truck/trailer combo. And even if the case is ruled in your favor (no neglect), you are out the money that you had to pay your attorney to get you squared away. It's a lose/lose either way.....if that accident happens.
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:05 PM   #19
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I honestly haven't researched your statement about posting a statue about being cited, but I will say this. Even though there may not be any legal statues about weight and overloading, a serious or fatal accident involving an overloaded truck/trailer will certainly bring out the lawyers like sharks circling blood in the water. In my opinion, knowingly driving/towing a rig that is overloaded (according to the very manufacturer of the vehicle who sets the capacity limits for that vehicle), would surely lead to a lawsuit against the owner of the vehicle and most likely, in my opinion, result in the judgement against the owner of the overloaded vehicle for some amount of dollars. Even if it is a fairly negligible amount of money, you are still spending your time and money for something that could be totally avoided with the correct truck/trailer combo. And even if the case is ruled in your favor (no neglect), you are out the money that you had to pay your attorney to get you squared away. It's a lose/lose either way.....if that accident happens.



You can be sued for ANYTHING.


That argument is OLD and has no factual bases otherwise there would be statues readily available to be cited and used in court.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:29 AM   #20
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I really don't care about the age of the argument; more importantly is the validity of that fact. And actually, negligence is a very common application of tort law that is used every day in the court systems to bring settlements against someone that acted in an irresponsible and negligent manner. That is the exact scenario when you knowingly tow a trailer that causes the tow vehicle to be overloaded. And the definition of overloaded has been determined by the vehicle manufacturer via their various weight capacity ratings AND their warnings to NEVER exceed ANY of those ratings. You can argue until the end of time that those ratings are exclusively for registration and warranty purposes only....that doesn't make it so. And the fact that there are lawsuits taking place every single day, somewhere in the U.S. and are being settled with the negligent person being found to be in the wrong...or guilty of negligence, should show you and others that this is real world stuff. Making bad decisions and being held accountable is just a fact of life. You can choose to accept that, or you can choose to ignore it, but either way, it doesn't change the fact that it's real.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:19 AM   #21
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Yes, your truck will tow the rv per data you included in your post.
Experience has taught me many lessons over the years. As far as RV 5 th wheel towing is concerned, I learned a long time ago that having a 1 ton tow vehicle makes all the difference in the world. There is what I call a “quality of tow” that is different than legal towing limits. Once you experience it, you will know exactly what I mean.

Good luck on your “adventure” and stay safe.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:22 AM   #22
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Yes, your truck will tow the rv per data you included in your post.

Experience has taught me many lessons over the years. As far as RV 5 th wheel towing is concerned, I learned a long time ago that having a 1 ton tow vehicle makes all the difference in the world. There is what I call a “quality of tow” that is different than legal towing limits. Once you experience it, you will know exactly what I mean.



Good luck on your “adventure” and stay safe.


Your “quality of tow” comment hit me right between the eyes. I moved from a 2002 HO 2500 4X4 Ram to a F350 SRW 4X4 and the difference in “quality of tow” is WAY more stabile than I ever would have thought pulling the same 5r. Better to have more truck than trailer than more trailer than truck IMHO. YMMV.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:50 AM   #23
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So I checked some info on the sticker in my glove box. It says my max cargo capacity is 1919lbs??


I'm really confused now. My payload capacity should be 3000lbs. And in the owners manual it says my max fifth wheel tongue rating is 3500lbs.



Still, my RAWR is 6200lbs. So I'm not sure where this 1919lbs is coming from?


Is that the cargo capacity in the cab? Since it's more towards the front axle? Any ideas?
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:02 AM   #24
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Personally on an 11k GVW weight budget and the climate your living in. I'd be looking at an artic fox TT. You'll stay warmer easier. The artic fox 5ver would be even better but your limited to truck size.

The cargo capacity is after they include weight for options the truck has.
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:21 AM   #25
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Update:


So I checked some info on the sticker in my glove box. It says my max cargo capacity is 1919lbs??


I'm really confused now. My payload capacity should be 3000lbs. And in the owners manual it says my max fifth wheel tongue rating is 3500lbs.



Still, my RAWR is 6200lbs. So I'm not sure where this 1919lbs is coming from?


Is that the cargo capacity in the cab? Since it's more towards the front axle? Any ideas?
If your payload capacity for the truck is truly 1919 lbs, you are for sure going to be overloaded from a payload standpoint. As has been stated, a good rule of thumb for estimating the pin weight is to use the GVWR of the trailer....10,600 lb and multiplying that number times 20%.....which comes to 2120 lbs. Now add the weight of the 5ver hitch..175-200 lbs and you are at approx. 2300 lbs. And this is before you add all of the weight of anything and everything that goes in the truck or on the truck.....passenger(s), pets, truck bed tool box, firewood, etc, etc. Of course I don't know how much weight that will be, but you need to try and figure those numbers out as best you can and add everything up for the total. Just as an example, lets say that those numbers (pin weight and what I mentioned above) come to 2800 lbs. Deduct your payload number (1919) from that 2800 lbs and that is how much you are overloaded on the payload part of the weight capacities.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:49 AM   #26
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If your payload capacity for the truck is truly 1919 lbs, you are for sure going to be overloaded from a payload standpoint. As has been stated, a good rule of thumb for estimating the pin weight is to use the GVWR of the trailer....10,600 lb and multiplying that number times 20%.....which comes to 2120 lbs. Now add the weight of the 5ver hitch..175-200 lbs and you are at approx. 2300 lbs. And this is before you add all of the weight of anything and everything that goes in the truck or on the truck.....passenger(s), pets, truck bed tool box, firewood, etc, etc. Of course I don't know how much weight that will be, but you need to try and figure those numbers out as best you can and add everything up for the total. Just as an example, lets say that those numbers (pin weight and what I mentioned above) come to 2800 lbs. Deduct your payload number (1919) from that 2800 lbs and that is how much you are overloaded on the payload part of the weight capacities.

I don't think the 1919lbs is a good number to go by. I'm not even sure where that number is coming from.


In the owners manual it states that the max pin weight for a fifth wheel is 3500lbs, presumably because it is centered directly over the rear axles. The rear axles have a rating of 6200lbs. The rear curb weight is listed at 2736lbs, so if I take that and add it to 2100lbs for the fifth wheel pin weight, plus 175 for slider hitch, plus another 500lbs for anything else just to be safe, then the weight on the rear axle is still only 5511lbs. And that's with an extra 500lb buffer, since other stuff will be further up in the bed/in the cab and will be distributing weight on the front axle as well (which I have about 1000lbs to work with after subtracting front end curb weight of 3788lbs from the FAWR of 4800lbs).



As mentioned earlier, GVWR is not a legally binding metric like RAWR and tire load capacity - each of which I'm well within my limits.



My tire load capacity is rated for over 7000lbs combined (load range E).


Based on all the info I've gathered through everyone here, I think I'm going to be just fine with this truck/trailer combo. Excited to hit the road!
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:43 AM   #27
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I don't think the 1919lbs is a good number to go by. I'm not even sure where that number is coming from.


In the owners manual it states that the max pin weight for a fifth wheel is 3500lbs, presumably because it is centered directly over the rear axles. The rear axles have a rating of 6200lbs. The rear curb weight is listed at 2736lbs, so if I take that and add it to 2100lbs for the fifth wheel pin weight, plus 175 for slider hitch, plus another 500lbs for anything else just to be safe, then the weight on the rear axle is still only 5511lbs. And that's with an extra 500lb buffer, since other stuff will be further up in the bed/in the cab and will be distributing weight on the front axle as well (which I have about 1000lbs to work with after subtracting front end curb weight of 3788lbs from the FAWR of 4800lbs).



As mentioned earlier, GVWR is not a legally binding metric like RAWR and tire load capacity - each of which I'm well within my limits.



My tire load capacity is rated for over 7000lbs combined (load range E).


Based on all the info I've gathered through everyone here, I think I'm going to be just fine with this truck/trailer combo. Excited to hit the road!
Like I told you before, Check your driver side door post for the payload/CCC number.....then you will KNOW what your available payload capacity is, and you won't be guessing or wondering how overloaded your are....or not!
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:38 AM   #28
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Hey everyone!


This model also doesn't have auto-leveling jacks, which means we can get it at a lower price than the other trailers we were looking at. How big of a deal is it to manually level the trailer? I've read through various forums where it seems like the opinions are pretty split.


Thanks!
Everyone else has the weight stuff under control, and I think you are well informed that you'll really want a 1 ton - but I'll tell you, I will never own a trailer again without auto level. There is a reason its on most units now. I'd also put a plug in for a built in generator, though that likely will conflict with your 3/4 ton truck's payload.

Biggest conveniences that motor homes have that typical 5th wheels don't is Auto level and a built in generator. Most people full time in a motor home because its more convenient - those are major reasons why (there are others)

Neither are really needed if your just using it occasionally for vacation- but for full time living, it makes a huge difference to setup time.
And when your sitting out in the rain, arguing with the spouse over the leveling process (and you will). and trying to setup to run the generator and not get it too wet...you'll curse yourself for not having either. Many here will chip in how they full timed just fine without both (we have neither) but man......its nice.
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