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Old 01-12-2014, 03:23 PM   #1
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First timers, no heat!

We just bought a 90 Skyline Nomad that has been restored. We sold everything we owned and moved back south! It is still winter though and I can't get the furnace to light. I have gas, I can smell it when it attempts to light. I taped up the sail switch to check that and still nothing. Any one know how to remove the igniter to clean it? After that what else? The board? Seems like it all works, it just won't light.??

Help!

Tim and kim
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:41 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timnkim View Post
We just bought a 90 Skyline Nomad that has been restored. We sold everything we owned and moved back south! It is still winter though and I can't get the furnace to light. I have gas, I can smell it when it attempts to light. I taped up the sail switch to check that and still nothing. Any one know how to remove the igniter to clean it? After that what else? The board? Seems like it all works, it just won't light.??

Help!

Tim and kim
I don't know anything about your Coach or furnace but I would say it has a "thermocouple". Here is a general information link on what a thermocouple does in a furnace. This might be the problem but you should have it checked out by a service tech to be sure,

Good luck


How to Light a Gas Furnace Standing Pilot with Thermocouple
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:49 PM   #3
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All depends on what furnace it is. I know how for many furnaces, but I'm not psychic and can't tell you what it is. I'm guessing it's a DSI furnace however with no pilot light.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:21 PM   #4
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Two main makers of furnaces, Atwood and Suburban, although there are others too. Check in furnace access for the name and model # then Google it. Search for <manufacturer> <model #> MANUAL and see what turns up. The manual will often give troubleshooting ideas. A generic tip, especially since you mentioned you are in the south, Mud dabber wasps and spiders build nests in the mixture tube and mess up a lot of furnaces and water heaters. You could start there.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:30 PM   #5
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no heat?

Do you have a gas stove? If so, is it working?
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:18 AM   #6
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It's an Atwood, and it has no pilot light. I have been clearing a lot of wasp nests from this rv so I'm getting the idea that it needs a good cleaning. Wondering how to get to it all? Does the whole thing come out in one piece where I can work on it?
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:25 AM   #7
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What "thing" are you wanting to pull out? Not the whole water heater at all.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:55 AM   #8
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What "thing" are you wanting to pull out? Not the whole water heater at all.
Working on the furnace, need to get to the igniter. Does the whole system pull out so I can work on it on a bench setting? Seems there are bolts or screws that hold the whole compartment in? Can't afford to pay the ridiculous labor charges at the local rv repair shop!
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:57 AM   #9
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Yes they come out as a complete unit
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:16 AM   #10
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Yes they come out as a complete unit
Ok, then what about the propane line? Is it flexible where I can disconnect it one the unit is free? Or do I have to remove it b4? And if it takes me a couple days to deal with it, is that line safe to leave disconnected for the time being? Is the a manual shutoff besides what's at the tanks for the entire coach?
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:54 AM   #11
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Most Atwood's don't entirely come out. Just certain parts of them; gas valve and burner asy.
The only LP off valve is on the tanks. You need to plug the light and ALWAYS check for gas leaks.

You say the dealer has ridiculous prices, but to someone who doesn't have an LP certification as needed, and all the proper tools, it can be worth it. What would take me 45 mins may take you a couple days. So don't go bashing prices when they are making a living and helping people who don't know how to do things safely or at all.
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:20 AM   #12
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Here's a link to an Atwood manual. It's from 2004, so it's probably not exactly for yours, but it does give some views and has a troubleshooting list.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

I admire anyone (like me) that is not afraid to tackle a home repair. You learn something and almost always solve the problem yourself. Go for it!
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:42 AM   #13
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Some furnaces will lock out after several tries of not starting. Turn off power to the unit for a few minutes to reset it. Now see how the furnace reacts. Do a continuity check on the sail switch. There should be a button on the sail switch. Hold it in when you check for continuity. If you have continuity the switch is good. If you have "barrel" type fan pushing air to the sail switch, it could be dirty and therefore not creating enough wind velocity to push the sail switch.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:13 PM   #14
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Hello all, I have just gone through this with mine on my Teton furnaces.
Although mud dobbers or whatever pesky creature puts its nest in the furnaces it really does keep them from lighting. In my case that was true for one of them. Although most of the time it is just getting the gas to the unit. You may want to make sure if yours uses two bottles that the reserve valve on your tank is on the proper tank. And see if any other appliance in that line works to eliminate the regulator and such. The furnace companies instructions say to turn off the power. Some have a switch inside the door as well on the panel. Mine has both.
Turn off the gas and wait 5 minutes. Mine made me wait 15. Then restart the furnace . I had to do this several times before it ignited. But it has been problem free since. In my case it wasnt used for a few years until I tried .
I hope this helps. I found my information on my specific heater on youtube.
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