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01-12-2014, 02:23 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 5
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First timers, no heat!
We just bought a 90 Skyline Nomad that has been restored. We sold everything we owned and moved back south! It is still winter though and I can't get the furnace to light. I have gas, I can smell it when it attempts to light. I taped up the sail switch to check that and still nothing. Any one know how to remove the igniter to clean it? After that what else? The board? Seems like it all works, it just won't light.??
Help!
Tim and kim
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01-12-2014, 02:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Missouri City, TX
Posts: 1,309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timnkim
We just bought a 90 Skyline Nomad that has been restored. We sold everything we owned and moved back south! It is still winter though and I can't get the furnace to light. I have gas, I can smell it when it attempts to light. I taped up the sail switch to check that and still nothing. Any one know how to remove the igniter to clean it? After that what else? The board? Seems like it all works, it just won't light.??
Help!
Tim and kim
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I don't know anything about your Coach or furnace but I would say it has a "thermocouple". Here is a general information link on what a thermocouple does in a furnace. This might be the problem but you should have it checked out by a service tech to be sure,
Good luck
How to Light a Gas Furnace Standing Pilot with Thermocouple
__________________
Don
2003 Forest River Cardinal Platinum 37' 5th Wheel
1976 31' Airstream
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01-12-2014, 02:49 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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All depends on what furnace it is. I know how for many furnaces, but I'm not psychic and can't tell you what it is. I'm guessing it's a DSI furnace however with no pilot light.
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01-12-2014, 03:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Two main makers of furnaces, Atwood and Suburban, although there are others too. Check in furnace access for the name and model # then Google it. Search for <manufacturer> <model #> MANUAL and see what turns up. The manual will often give troubleshooting ideas. A generic tip, especially since you mentioned you are in the south, Mud dabber wasps and spiders build nests in the mixture tube and mess up a lot of furnaces and water heaters. You could start there.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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01-12-2014, 03:30 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,857
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no heat?
Do you have a gas stove? If so, is it working?
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01-13-2014, 07:18 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 5
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It's an Atwood, and it has no pilot light. I have been clearing a lot of wasp nests from this rv so I'm getting the idea that it needs a good cleaning. Wondering how to get to it all? Does the whole thing come out in one piece where I can work on it?
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01-13-2014, 07:25 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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What "thing" are you wanting to pull out? Not the whole water heater at all.
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01-13-2014, 08:55 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas
What "thing" are you wanting to pull out? Not the whole water heater at all.
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Working on the furnace, need to get to the igniter. Does the whole system pull out so I can work on it on a bench setting? Seems there are bolts or screws that hold the whole compartment in? Can't afford to pay the ridiculous labor charges at the local rv repair shop!
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01-13-2014, 08:57 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Excel Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Farmington NM
Posts: 1,822
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Yes they come out as a complete unit
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01-13-2014, 09:16 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief02
Yes they come out as a complete unit
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Ok, then what about the propane line? Is it flexible where I can disconnect it one the unit is free? Or do I have to remove it b4? And if it takes me a couple days to deal with it, is that line safe to leave disconnected for the time being? Is the a manual shutoff besides what's at the tanks for the entire coach?
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01-13-2014, 09:54 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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Most Atwood's don't entirely come out. Just certain parts of them; gas valve and burner asy.
The only LP off valve is on the tanks. You need to plug the light and ALWAYS check for gas leaks.
You say the dealer has ridiculous prices, but to someone who doesn't have an LP certification as needed, and all the proper tools, it can be worth it. What would take me 45 mins may take you a couple days. So don't go bashing prices when they are making a living and helping people who don't know how to do things safely or at all.
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01-13-2014, 10:20 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Here's a link to an Atwood manual. It's from 2004, so it's probably not exactly for yours, but it does give some views and has a troubleshooting list.
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf
I admire anyone (like me) that is not afraid to tackle a home repair. You learn something and almost always solve the problem yourself. Go for it!
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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01-13-2014, 10:42 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Seeing the USA
Posts: 2,646
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Some furnaces will lock out after several tries of not starting. Turn off power to the unit for a few minutes to reset it. Now see how the furnace reacts. Do a continuity check on the sail switch. There should be a button on the sail switch. Hold it in when you check for continuity. If you have continuity the switch is good. If you have "barrel" type fan pushing air to the sail switch, it could be dirty and therefore not creating enough wind velocity to push the sail switch.
__________________
Neal and Deb + Mya and Gizmo, the pup's
2003 Winnebago Sightseer 30B
May the roads rise up to meet you, May the winds be always at your back...
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01-13-2014, 12:13 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 103
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Hello all, I have just gone through this with mine on my Teton furnaces.
Although mud dobbers or whatever pesky creature puts its nest in the furnaces it really does keep them from lighting. In my case that was true for one of them. Although most of the time it is just getting the gas to the unit. You may want to make sure if yours uses two bottles that the reserve valve on your tank is on the proper tank. And see if any other appliance in that line works to eliminate the regulator and such. The furnace companies instructions say to turn off the power. Some have a switch inside the door as well on the panel. Mine has both.
Turn off the gas and wait 5 minutes. Mine made me wait 15. Then restart the furnace . I had to do this several times before it ignited. But it has been problem free since. In my case it wasnt used for a few years until I tried .
I hope this helps. I found my information on my specific heater on youtube.
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