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Old 05-03-2013, 11:53 AM   #15
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I drain if not needed-not needed if sitting in storage
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #16
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Since we still w#$k, we use our rig several weekends from April into October, and a 2-week trip during the summer. I sanitize the fresh water tank in the spring using clorox - run it through the lines and let it sit a couple of days; then fill and dump a couple of times. We use the water for everything, including cooking and drinking, and have never had a problem.

After I trip I dump all the water, unless we are going to use the rig the next weekend - then I just add more as needed. We always travel with a full tank (65 gal). During our 2-week trip we might have to add more, depending on the type of hookups we get during the trip, and the water condition - some parts of the country have very bad-tasting water.

Jim
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:54 PM   #17
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To sanitize the tank you use cup bleach to every 15 gallons of tank capacity. Pump it through the system and let it sit for at least 4 hours, then flush.
I use a particulate whole house filter so it doesn't remove the chlorine the city adds to the water and keeps the system sanitary. For the drinking water tap and ice maker I use ones that pretty much remove everything.
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
X2!
For others; Chlorine is a very harmful chemical if improperly used, and if/when it breaks down the byproducts are even more harmful. For details, look up the EPA water quality standards- which every public water system in the U.S.A. must meet or exceed.

Just curious, do you work at a water treatment facility?
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:18 PM   #19
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Our local water plant even softens the water down to about 10 grains hardness, which adds salt to the water content.
10 grains per gallon equals 171 mg/L (ppm) calcium carbonate equivalent. That's some pretty hard water they're giving you. Most softening plants try to keep it below 100 mg/L. When you get over 100 mg/L of hardness you will definitely have a problem with scale buildup on fixtures and soap that never seems to suds up. For the most part larger public utilities that soften use lime softening or reverse osmosis instead of ion exchange to soften water. Ion exchange units are mostly found in residential settings since disposal of large amounts of recharge brine is a problem.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:43 PM   #20
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10 grains per gallon equals 171 mg/L (ppm) calcium carbonate equivalent. That's some pretty hard water they're giving you. Most softening plants try to keep it below 100 mg/L. When you get over 100 mg/L of hardness you will definitely have a problem with scale buildup on fixtures and soap that never seems to suds up. For the most part larger public utilities that soften use lime softening or reverse osmosis instead of ion exchange to soften water. Ion exchange units are mostly found in residential settings since disposal of large amounts of recharge brine is a problem.
Yea they help it a little, but not enough. The local water is about 30 to 35 grain hardness. The city plant lowers it to about 10 grains they say. We have a softener to lower it back down to what? About one to three grains I am thinking. Then we run the softened water through a RO unit for drinking and ice makers and such. It is probably better then most bottled water I would guess. I only fill the RV with softened water running through a inline filter on the RV. Would like to have a RO for drinking on the RV but haven't did that yet due to the size of the units and such.
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