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03-31-2016, 05:47 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southern Lorain County, OH
Posts: 372
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Front Jacks on the 5ver...
5ver is now 10 years old...but, new to me...so, looking at doing some PM on her. My front jack on the Designer are electric operated, I assume most are electric. Most of the mechanic's are pretty well hidden. What type of PM should be done? or lubrication point? and how to access?
__________________
2007 Dutch Star 4320, Spartan IFS chassis with Cummins ISl 400HP Allision 6 spd, travel'en with my sweetie...and man's best friend, our rescue dog!
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04-01-2016, 09:38 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mechanicsville, Virginia
Posts: 117
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Personally, I just extend mine as far as possible and pressure wash them once every couple years. Then a light lube spray. Use too much lube and it picks up too much grime and is hard to raise the inside piece by hand.
In any case, here's the instructions from our Atwood landing gear... should be adaptable to yours...
MAINTENANCE 1. Before use, inspect drop tube and inner ram tube. Replace if bent or damaged. 2. ONCE EACH YEAR:
a. Extend landing legs as far as possible, clean drop tube and inner ram tube. Coat exposed surface of tubes with silicone spray lubricant. b. Coat inside of handle alignment tube with silicone spray lubricant. c. Oil shaft bushing in gear box and leg gear heads with SAE 30 oil. d. Lubricate gears in gear box and landing leg gear heads with extreme pressure grease. 3. For Electric Drive Motor Landing Legs, twice each year, check wiring connections at battery. Clean terminals with a solution of baking soda and water. Cover with a thin coat of grease. NOTE : Electric Drive Motor is lubricated at factory and requires no
further lubrication. 4. The Electric Drive Motor Landing Leg system is protected by a 30 amp fuse. If replacement is necessary, replace only with a Buss Type AGC-30 fuse or equivalent, available in automotive supply stores. 5. The 3:1 gear box is not repairable. Do not take it apart. If you have a problem with the gear box, replace it. Should problems or questions arise, contact your dealer, the trailer manufacturer or Atwood’s Service Department at 866-869-3118.
__________________
2014 Dodge Dually
2014 Heartland Bighorn 3010re
14' Port-a-bote that goes everywhere with us
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04-03-2016, 04:46 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldeguy
5ver is now 10 years old...but, new to me...so, looking at doing some PM on her. My front jack on the Designer are electric operated, I assume most are electric. Most of the mechanic's are pretty well hidden. What type of PM should be done? or lubrication point? and how to access?
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Lubrication points? You have to be joking. OK, OK I apologize. I had a Mountaineer Montana. Kept blowing fuses on front jack. Could hardly crank them. I disconnected the drive shaft that connected them and found the bad jack. I removed the jack (after blocking RV up) and disassembled it. What I found made me discussed. NO GREASE on the screw. Dry as a bone and it was starting to gall. I used a thread file on the screw to clean it up. I greased it with some high pressure grease and assembled it. I then installed it and repeated the process on the other jack. Just a new grease job was needed on that one. They worked like a charm. I then contacted the manufacturer of the jacks and explained what I found and informed them to check their process. WOW... They went on to tell me they have NO process problems and the unit was greased. The grease must have run out sitting in the sun... HO! HO! HO! I told them I was an Engineer and a Certified Tool & Die Maker and they had not greased it, end of conversation. A typical example of a company not taking responsibility for a problem they caused.
So if you want to do a proper maintenance, I suggest you do the same. It should not be that hard to install grease fittings to increase the life and make life just a little easier for RVers.
This is an excerpt from a letter I did receive: Specifically for Steven:
Doug Olson, our VP of Engineering says the following: “As far as lubrication goes... the only good way to do it is to remove the leg from the coach and disassemble it... Use a good EP (extreme pressure) type grease, preferably one with moly (molybdenum disulfide) grade 2”.
If the grease is still looking pretty good it is a good idea to run it slightly above and below your regular pathway so it doesn’t wear a groove and get slow and sluggish. Don’t go beyond the recommended heights or things can break.”
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04-03-2016, 12:45 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: North / Central Texas
Posts: 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick50
Lubrication points? You have to be joking. OK, OK I apologize. I had a Mountaineer Montana. Kept blowing fuses on front jack. Could hardly crank them. I disconnected the drive shaft that connected them and found the bad jack. I removed the jack (after blocking RV up) and disassembled it. What I found made me discussed. NO GREASE on the screw. Dry as a bone and it was starting to gall. I used a thread file on the screw to clean it up. I greased it with some high pressure grease and assembled it. I then installed it and repeated the process on the other jack. Just a new grease job was needed on that one. They worked like a charm. I then contacted the manufacturer of the jacks and explained what I found and informed them to check their process. WOW... They went on to tell me they have NO process problems and the unit was greased. The grease must have run out sitting in the sun... HO! HO! HO! I told them I was an Engineer and a Certified Tool & Die Maker and they had not greased it, end of conversation. A typical example of a company not taking responsibility for a problem they caused.
So if you want to do a proper maintenance, I suggest you do the same. It should not be that hard to install grease fittings to increase the life and make life just a little easier for RVers.
This is an excerpt from a letter I did receive: Specifically for Steven:
Doug Olson, our VP of Engineering says the following: “As far as lubrication goes... the only good way to do it is to remove the leg from the coach and disassemble it... Use a good EP (extreme pressure) type grease, preferably one with moly (molybdenum disulfide) grade 2”.
If the grease is still looking pretty good it is a good idea to run it slightly above and below your regular pathway so it doesn’t wear a groove and get slow and sluggish. Don’t go beyond the recommended heights or things can break.”
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Good advice, probably should be checked every few years depending on how much they are used.
__________________
Joe & Bev
2014 Ram 2500 TCD, CC, SB, 4WD
Raised Rockwood 8289WS, Hensley BD3 hitch
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04-04-2016, 06:33 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southern Lorain County, OH
Posts: 372
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Maverick...I now know you that you'er "Certified", that's good. I'm an engineer also...over think most things...but I'm a glass half full guy! My question is...got a link to an exploded view of this devise? Trying to understand the type of gearing they have? Found Bulldog in a google search, but they only show you a picture. My hand crank has a flat for the driver. found this utube vid...now I understand! Long but has all the info...
__________________
2007 Dutch Star 4320, Spartan IFS chassis with Cummins ISl 400HP Allision 6 spd, travel'en with my sweetie...and man's best friend, our rescue dog!
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