General upkeep and minor maintenance questions

[Rcwelds]

Hello, I have a 2007 all American sport 5thwheel 38' by forest river.
I've had the trailer for about a year now and we use it a ton.Where my questions begin are, I've started to really notice it's age lately and would like to do some minor repairs And upkeep to help with that.

-ROOF I'm resealing the roof this weekend which should be no problem.

-J-wrap/ Beltline trim need help the previous owner put self tapping screws in it where it seems to be week and able to flop around which have since pulled out and the whole thing is pulling away from the trailer.while looking at that I notice I have some dry rot on the wall of my slide out difrectly under the back of the fridge access panel.Wich is also not helping hold the jwrap and beltline trim in place because of the rotted wood.So how do you remove the beltline mounding and is is possible to repair rotted wood on slide out without destroying the out side fiberglass wall.

-Furnace- I've replaced everything I can think of in the furnace and propaine area and my furnace still will not fire. It fires up fine when I bench test it out side of the trailer though and the water heater and stove work fine

I have a few small cosmetic things I need to work on as well like getting the trailer buffed or possibly removing/replacing the graphics but those are the main things I'd like to get wrapped up. If anyone has any insight on these or if I should post them somewhere else all help is appreciated

[Kahoona]

Good that you caught that wood rot before it got too far. A lot of people fix it with a special epoxy that works wet. You probably can do it without a problem but most important is to find out where the water came in. Possibles are roof leaks, upper wall seam caulk leaks, screw holes (like those self tappers you mentioned.) Search on delamination to get a lot of info. Much of it may not apply but the cure is probably the same.

My Beltline trim was held on with double faced tape and I replaced it with new stuff that had tape with it but you can probably use one of the 3M tapes to do it.
Roof seal with a self leveling caulk like Dicor is critical in preventing leaks and rot. Do not use silicone. Side seams are equally important.

I removed my graphics with a heat gun on low and a plastic scraper (very carefully.) When that is done you will see the original color beneath where sun has not faded it. When you say buffed do you mean with compound? If so then do it before the new graphics are added. Then polish (wax) a week or so later to let the new stuff bond. I went to a boat graphics shop and designed a huge blue wave breaking over a desert island with a palm on it and the RV's name "Tsunami" Nobody else has that logo/ graphic. It got the name because once it gets going it's hard to stop. I surf.

[grindstone01]

I went all through my furnace replacing everything and discovered that the spark gap was too great.
For graphics, I lightly sanded them, taped them off, and used spray paint cans to repaint over the decals.
I powered washed our roof and it looks new even though it's 11 years old.
For dry rotted wood, the best solution is to remove and replace it. You should be able to get a new panel from Forest River.