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Old 07-27-2013, 12:35 PM   #1
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Help!! Towing Problems

Hi all.
Just had my Carriage Domani lifted 6" so it would ride level on a 2013 Chev 3500 DRW.
We upgraded from the 5300# dexter torflex to SOB 7000# torflex. The suspension tech said the rubber cartridge is the same as the 6000# axles, but the 7000# gives heavier bearings.

Now.... when we drive over any dip or rough spot on the highway the trailer porpoises hard. I mean hard. To the point I believe it will tear out the rear kitchen upper cabinets and microwave. It really does hammer back and forth hard.
The rear fridge looks like a popcorn machine inside. Contents everywhere and upside down

I've heard of people leaving a cup of coffee in the sink and not spilling very much while traveling, but this one will put the cup in the front bedroom.

We don't carry water while we travel.
What have I done wrong?
Of course we are at mile 850 of a 2100 mile trip and this must be addressed.

Will a full tank of fresh water put enough weight on the pin to stop the violent pounding going on back there?

As usual, all thoughts or ideas are welcome.

James
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:59 PM   #2
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I'd say the tech was wrong, that 7000 lb rubber cartridge is too stiff for the weight on the axles. Higher pin weight is not going to help, IMO. However, most fresh water tanks are in the back of the trailer, so a full tank should put more weight on the axles and may provide some help. The only other idea is to reduce the tire psi, so that the tires absorb more of the road bounce. But not a good idea if you are running ST tires or in hot weather and of course not possible if you are already near the tire load limit. Otherwise, your only real choice for now is to drive slower, then go back to lower rated torsion axles.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:21 AM   #3
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I think what you've done is raise the center of gravity (COG) of the trailer so that the COG is now too high above the wheels. What you are seeing is that when you hit a bump, the weight of the trailer which acts through the COG, but which is now much higher than it used to be, is rocking the truck. The difference in height over the wheels is like a lever magnifying the loads and causing the very bad rocking motion of the trailer.
I'm not sure there is a fix, except to lower the truck to match the original height of the trailer.
Ever ridden in a very short wheel base jeep over rough roads? They pitch backwards and forwards - can make you sick. That's the same effect.

Sheff
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:33 AM   #4
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Sounds like you need more pin weight, the trailer is acting like a teeter-totter over the hard sprung axles, filling the tanks is a very easy way to find out if it will do any good. Are your shocks good on the TV, designed for the load you're hauling (probably max gvwr)? Air ride pin box? Shocks on the FW?
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:33 AM   #5
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I agree with the comment about raising the C of G. Not a good idea IMHO. Better to drop the Tow Vehicle. A lower C of G = greater stability.

Good idea to check PIN wt and axel wt fully loaded. more weight on the trailer will likely provide a better ride, but of course the weight MUST be appropriatly distributed between the axel(s) and PIN and must stay within the TV PIN and vehicle tow specs of course.

Hope you can get a smooth ride.

Good luck
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menoble View Post
Sounds like you need more pin weight, the trailer is acting like a teeter-totter over the hard sprung axles, filling the tanks is a very easy way to find out if it will do any good. Are your shocks good on the TV, designed for the load you're hauling (probably max gvwr)? Air ride pin box? Shocks on the FW?
I forgot to mention the more water idea is only if your tanks are ahead of the axle, more weight behind could aggravate the situation even further. I can feel a big difference in mine between carrying 100 gals water, full of groceries, and nothing in the garage, and when I've got 900 lbs of Harley in the back and empty tanks.
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