Hooking up a Fith Wheel

[Ed ke6bnl]

Ist question on our first vacation in our used 5er I got to thinking that I do not have any chains to secure the 5th to the truck like I did with the pull trailer I had. I have seen them on goose necks do you need them on the 5er??


I have to first say I have a 16K superglide what is the recommended height to have the trailer flat plate as it meets the plate of the hitch???

Thanks ED

[RustyJC]

Safety chains are not required on a 5th wheel hitch.

As far as height adjustment is concerned, I strive for a minimum of 6" clearance between the bottom of the 5th wheel RV overhang and the truck's bed rails. If you can get more while keeping the trailer relatively level, so much the better.

Upon re-reading your second point, if you're talking about the relative elevation between the hitch and pinbox when hitching up, on my non-Pullrite hitch I'll have the RV about 1/2" low relative to the hitch such that the pinbox slides up onto the load plate of the 5th wheel hitch. This prevents a very expensive "false hitch" or "high hitch" situation where the hitch jaws don't engage the recess in the kingpin bore. Having said that, I'll defer to a Pullrite hitch user for any unique considerations with your hitch arrangement.

Rusty

[Ed ke6bnl]

Originally Posted by RustyJC

Safety chains are not required on a 5th wheel hitch.

As far as height adjustment is concerned, I strive for a minimum of 6" clearance between the bottom of the 5th wheel RV overhang and the truck's bed rails. If you can get more while keeping the trailer relatively level, so much the better.

Upon re-reading your second point, if you're talking about the relative elevation between the hitch and pinbox when hitching up, on my non-Pullrite hitch I'll have the RV about 1/2" low relative to the hitch such that the pinbox slides up onto the load plate of the 5th wheel hitch. This prevents a very expensive "false hitch" or "high hitch" situation where the hitch jaws don't engage the recess in the kingpin bore. Having said that, I'll defer to a Pullrite hitch user for any unique considerations with your hitch

arrangement.

Rusty

Thanks for the info on the chains. The pullrite has the added metal guides that require the hitch go in parallel to the pin box. and so I was thinking the two have to be almost clear of each other so the hitch could rotate a small amount to align the hitch to the pin box. After posing the question I thought the best place to go is to call pullrite and get there response. I will post there response when I get a hold of them.

[ralper]

I get the pin and the hitch in proper alignment and hook up the wire and brake safety wire. I then back up to hitch up until I hear the telltale klunk. I then manually apply the trailer brakes with the button on the trailer brake controler and shift into drive. I put some foreward strain on the hitch to be sure it is secure. I then raise the front 5'er legs and am ready to go after one more pit stop and a walk around.

To unhitch first put the front 5'er legs down. Press the trailer braker controler to apply the brakes and shift into reverse. Put rearward pressure on the hitch and then put on the truck brake. Now with the pressure relieved from the hitch the catch handle will be easy to pull to release the pin.

[shortlance]

Originally Posted by RustyJC

Safety chains are not required on a 5th wheel hitch.

As far as height adjustment is concerned, I strive for a minimum of 6" clearance between the bottom of the 5th wheel RV overhang and the truck's bed rails. If you can get more while keeping the trailer relatively level, so much the better.

Upon re-reading your second point, if you're talking about the relative elevation between the hitch and pinbox when hitching up, on my non-Pullrite hitch I'll have the RV about 1/2" low relative to the hitch such that the pinbox slides up onto the load plate of the 5th wheel hitch. This prevents a very expensive "false hitch" or "high hitch" situation where the hitch jaws don't engage the recess in the kingpin bore. Having said that, I'll defer to a Pullrite hitch user for any unique considerations with your hitch arrangement.

Rusty

Keeping the hitch a little higher then the kingpin also takes the weight off the front jacks if you are not quite square with the 5er when hooking up and this will help save the jacks from getting damaged.

[Chemtchr]

Ed,
I also have a 16K Pullrite hitch. I agree with Rusty. I have the plate that is attached to the kingpin just about 1/2 inch lower than the hitch. If you put a little lithium grease on the hitch plate and back in slowly, the hitch will have a chance to align itself with the kingpin. As the plates slide over each other the truck will settle and the kingpin will slide into place quite easily. Just listen for that clunk and watch the release arm move to the locked position. I always then check to make sure the locking mechanism is wrapped around the kingpin and then I test the release arm to make sure it is locked. A quick test pull as described by rapier is always a good idea. I have had my hitch for 4 years and I love it.

[Ed ke6bnl]

Originally Posted by Chemtchr

Ed,
I also have a 16K Pullrite hitch. I agree with Rusty. I have the plate that is attached to the kingpin just about 1/2 inch lower than the hitch. If you put a little lithium grease on the hitch plate and back in slowly, the hitch will have a chance to align itself with the kingpin. As the plates slide over each other the truck will settle and the kingpin will slide into place quite easily. Just listen for that clunk and watch the release arm move to the locked position. I always then check to make sure the locking mechanism is wrapped around the kingpin and then I test the release arm to make sure it is locked. A quick test pull as described by rapier is always a good idea. I have had my hitch for 4 years and I love it.

I will be doing it that way next time I hook up may not be as critical on a regular hitch but with the adapter plate there needs to be some free movement of the hitch. I am not sure where I read or video on doing the way I was but the slider by pullrite they need the ability to shift around a bit. Thanks folks. ED

[sadiebug]

In any case, make sure the tailgate is in the down position both ways. At least the Tahoe is going to give us more lee way when backing up to hitch compared to the Scamp which we do chain because it is a ball hitch.