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Old 05-10-2016, 12:01 PM   #15
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IC2, thanks for this thread as I will be having to do this exact maneuver to put the over/under conversion on. Makes me a bit nervous lifting a good portion of the trailer with the two electric jacks at the front as I am not sure what their weight rating is, but it appears generally that is how it is done. I guess you could do it like Cummins 12V98, then block up the trailer, use a jack to lift the axle with tire to remove tire. Seems to put a lot of weight on one axle if you did both side at the same time.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:49 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by dmstepa View Post
IC2, thanks for this thread as I will be having to do this exact maneuver to put the over/under conversion on. Makes me a bit nervous lifting a good portion of the trailer with the two electric jacks at the front as I am not sure what their weight rating is, but it appears generally that is how it is done. I guess you could do it like Cummins 12V98, then block up the trailer, use a jack to lift the axle with tire to remove tire. Seems to put a lot of weight on one axle if you did both side at the same time.

Wellllll since you have a Titanium, I guess I can say that the 6000 pound axles that Glendale used for that size will more then temporarily support the weight ---- since I did the Nevr-Lube to E-Z Lube axle change over on our now long gone 2006 28/33 with one or the other pair of wheels off the ground on ramps and the Atwood landing gear, especially if the LG is the dual motor version, is more then capable. When I did the wet bolt and E-Z Flex mod, all wheels were off the ground (do you belong to the Titanium Owners Group - if not, take a look here Titanium RV Owners Forum - Login)
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:02 PM   #17
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Can you Jack one side up with bottle jack, block it, then jack the other side?
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:53 PM   #18
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Can you Jack one side up with bottle jack, block it, then jack the other side?

Yes, if you use your landing gear --- but it's, IMO, kinda iffy with that jack head being only about 1-2 inches in diameter with the 4x6 inch base ready to slide out. Why not consider using some cribbing and your LG then a couple of inexpensive Harbor Freight 6 ton/pair jack stands for safety on the frame behind the LG.

This is just a rough example I found on the 'net, but is similar what we are discussing. Two or three 4x4s cut in ~16" lengths will make 6 per eight foot length. I like treated wood as it is usually tighter grain tho any will work just fine

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Old 05-11-2016, 03:49 PM   #19
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Just a quick update - the 5er is up in the air, on cribbing behind the spring hangers. In front of the suspension it is on the landing gear with a pair of 6 ton jacks as back up. Evidently some of my cribbing from previous trailers had disappeared as I had to pick up another 8' length plus use some 4x6 remnants from another project. Tomorrow I have to hit it hard and hopefully get a good part of my suspension projects and 2nd a/c installed since we are scheduled to travel on the 20th/21st
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:41 PM   #20
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My trailer weighs in about 14,000 lbs. I use two 20 ton bottle jacks and four 8 ton safety stands. I jack up the front first with a jack under the frame on both sides. Alternate between the two jacks so that unit is never very much angled. Then fit two of the safety stands under the frame and lower the jacks until the load is transferred. Then I jack up the rear in the same manner. I always use a wood base under the jacks and stands to spread out the load. I have a gravel driveway.

Once the rig is fully up I'll drop the landing gear and the rear stabilizers just for added measure. I also leave the jacks under the frame even the four stands are caring the load. Make sure the stands/jacks are always vertical.

If I'm doing wheel bearing work, I just jack one side at time.
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