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Old 03-10-2019, 07:32 PM   #15
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Anyone doing this when you winterize? This seems to be very involved. I'm not sure I followed it all. You'll have to wait a few seconds to skip the ad at the beginning.

https://youtu.be/fyjFAFFe7xs

He says at the beginning of the video that rather than add anti-freeze to all the plumbing, they prefer to use the Viair air compressor and blow all the water out of the lines. But at the end of the video, he adds anti-freeze anyway. Kind of confusing.
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Old 03-11-2019, 02:46 AM   #16
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I keep mine on shore power to keep the batteries charged and to facilitate turning on lights to routinely check on the trailer over the winter (I like to make sure the freeze/thaw cycles aren't damaging things inside about every other week.)

For the plumbing, I run anti-freeze through everything (except the water heater which is bypassed, drained out, and dried out). I have a set-up that allows me to directly pump from the anti-freeze jug into the plumbing system. The only portion of the system that it doesn't get at is the fresh water tank which I drain out and then fill with a gallon of anti-freeze just to keep the drain from getting damaged from any residual water.
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Old 03-11-2019, 03:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by AKFlyboy View Post
I keep mine on shore power to keep the batteries charged and to facilitate turning on lights to routinely check on the trailer over the winter (I like to make sure the freeze/thaw cycles aren't damaging things inside about every other week.)

For the plumbing, I run anti-freeze through everything (except the water heater which is bypassed, drained out, and dried out). I have a set-up that allows me to directly pump from the anti-freeze jug into the plumbing system. The only portion of the system that it doesn't get at is the fresh water tank which I drain out and then fill with a gallon of anti-freeze just to keep the drain from getting damaged from any residual water.
A few questions come to mind. First, where do you live, Florida is much different from North Dakota. Second, if you drain the lines and fill them with anti-freeze, why do you need to keep it on shore power? And third. You add anti-freeze to the fresh water tank? Don't you drink or cook out of that?
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Old 03-11-2019, 11:15 PM   #18
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A few questions come to mind. First, where do you live, Florida is much different from North Dakota. Second, if you drain the lines and fill them with anti-freeze, why do you need to keep it on shore power? And third. You add anti-freeze to the fresh water tank? Don't you drink or cook out of that?
blow the lines out with an oil less compressor. fill the water lines with rv antifreeze. add rv antifreeze to all sinks and the fresh water tank. drain hot water heater. some rv antifreeze can be added to the hot water heater. drain ice maker water line if your fridge has an ice maker. IN THE SPRING---- sanitize the water tank. use the fresh water from the tank to sanitize your water lines. flush fresh tank and repeat for the water lines. USE RV ANTIFREEZE NOT CAR RADIATOR ANTIFREEZE.
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:21 AM   #19
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Winterizing tends to be different for different makes/models and different parts of the county and how the rig is stored. No one solution fits all needs.

Some rigs have well placed low level drains that may get most of the water out. Some can be blown out pretty well in some cases. Running antifreeze through the plumbing, minus exceptions, will protect in all cases.

My basic process is to drain the fresh water tank, water heater, 2 gal pressure tank (self drains since its a pressure tank) and the whole house built-in water filter. By pass the water heater, isolate the fresh water tank and pressure tank and built-in water filter. If you have an ice maker, washer machine, dish washer, etc then you've got some other issues. Each of those have to winterized. Drain the waste water tanks. Then I use a siphon hose near the input of the pump to pump RV antifreeze through the system. Open the facet farthest away first and work back towards the closest facet doing hot and cold both. Run the antifreeze until its s steady pink. On my rigs the city water line won't be flushed at this point. Since there's nearly always a check valve at the city inlet, you need to pressure the system or somehow depress the check valve. I have a spare 12 volt RV water pump with some hose attachments that I use for this purpose. Its also used to transfer water from a portable water bladder into the fresh water tank. After that I dump a pint or so antifreeze down every drain trap. You may want to drain the waste tanks one more time to get what water was flushed out with the antifreeze. In some rigs that a black water washer inlet you may need to force antifreeze through that line as well, just depends on the setup.

FYI: There's at least a -50 and -80 rated RV antifreeze. Besides the protection level, the -80 stuff does not leave nearly as much of an after taste when its been flushed in the spring. Cost a couple dollars more per gallon but IMO its worth it. A little water left in the bottom of the fresh water tank or water heater will not hurt anything if it freezes since it has plenty of expansion room.

De-winterizing is a similar process, but I also run bleach solution through the system.
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:44 AM   #20
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A few questions come to mind. First, where do you live, Florida is much different from North Dakota. Second, if you drain the lines and fill them with anti-freeze, why do you need to keep it on shore power? And third. You add anti-freeze to the fresh water tank? Don't you drink or cook out of that?
I'm in Wisconsin, so it spends a lot of time below freezing here in the winter. I keep it on shore power to keep my batteries charged as the freezing point of the electrolyte raises as they discharge.

I also mentioned I like to periodically check the interior. It's nice to run the brighter AC powered lights. We tend to get snow and ice, then it partially melts, then freezes again, then partially thaws, and so on. I like to make sure it isn't causing water to find its way into the trailer.

I also keep traps out for rodents that try and find shelter in there. Last spring I had a very large mummified rat I found under the water heater during my de-winterization. I also had a mouse make a tinder ball of a nest in the intake of my heater last winter that was a pain to clear out.

As for the anti-freeze, as others have mentioned, it's an RV specific product that's safe for potable lines. It's typically either ethanol (alcohol) or more commonly propylene glycol (often used as food preservative, and is what is typically known as safety freeze). You don't want to drink tons of the stuff obviously, but the residual amount left after the de-winterization process is harmless. Ethylene glycol is the standard automotive anti-freeze that will kill you.

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A little water left in the bottom of the fresh water tank or water heater will not hurt anything if it freezes since it has plenty of expansion room.
I only dump a small amount of anti-freeze in my fresh water tank because the tank drain is a 5 inch pvc hose with a cap that hangs off the bottom of the tank that don't want ice expanding in.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:28 AM   #21
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I was looking at RV antifreeze reviews and found this on the brand sold at Camping World which got pretty good reviews, "Provides burst protection down to -50F and freeze protection between 14F and 18F". Can anyone explain this? Freeze protection between 14F and 18F doesn't sound very good. Reviews of the Walmart product was very poor as their product (based on reviews) resulted in a lot of damage from freezing in this same temp. range.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:24 AM   #22
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The pink stuff will freeze and get slushy but it won't expand like water does so it won't hurt anything. If it was still below that 14 degree threshold and you tried to run the water it wouldn't flow but you would never need to do that if it is winterized and still that cold out.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:31 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadEyePie View Post
I was looking at RV antifreeze reviews and found this on the brand sold at Camping World which got pretty good reviews, "Provides burst protection down to -50F and freeze protection between 14F and 18F". Can anyone explain this? Freeze protection between 14F and 18F doesn't sound very good. Reviews of the Walmart product was very poor as their product (based on reviews) resulted in a lot of damage from freezing in this same temp. range.
Here's a good summary of the difference between burst and freeze points.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co....do?docId=1144
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