Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > 5th Wheel Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-18-2014, 01:25 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 20
Question How to hang heavy blinds on styrofoam walls?

We are going to replace our day/nite shades which are mounted inside a valance with faux wood 2 1/2" blinds. We are going to remove the valence because the new blinds are too wide/deep to fit inside the valence.

Once the valence is removed, the only place to mount the new hanging brackets is on the wall outside and above the window. At that location, there is only the 1/8 inch panel board and then 2 inches of Styrofoam then the outside fiberglass wall.

The normal mounting is to use two screws into the "wood" header board, which is not used in an (our)RV.

AS these faux wood blinds are very heavy, I would prefer they remain on the wall and not on the floor following our future travel.

What is the best way to fasten them to our Styrofoam walls?
__________________

__________________
BBDAWG is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-18-2014, 02:10 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
al2ride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,278
You can try somehow adding a piece of wood with epoxy and then mount the blinds to that. It's hard to see what you are working with without actually seeing it.
__________________

__________________
USAF Veteran
2014 Forest River Georgetown 351DS
2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad
al2ride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2014, 08:55 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio USA
Posts: 37
Does the wall have any aluminum framing inside it or is it strictly fiberglass/Styrofoam/fiberboard. Mine has aluminum framing and I use a stud finder to locate those and use self tapping screws when I need to hang something heavier.

If not, some sort of strong, permanent epoxy and a wood backer board as al2ride suggests might be the best bet.

Good Luck and let us know what you end up doing and how it works out!
__________________
CincyGus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2014, 07:35 AM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 20
There is metal framing around the window but not where the blind brackets must go. The best location, for appearance, has only 1/8" panel, Styrofoam then fiberglass panel.

The faux blinds are quite heavy which is my concern.

I do think I have an answer from another forum. They suggested mounting a piece of wood (maybe a 1"x4") using ell brackets to the top metal window frame. Allow the wood to extend out to the desired width for the appropriate "appearance" and mount the blind brackets to this piece of wood. It would be like a 4" shelf.

I am going to try that option. I only need to extend about 3-4 inches on either side of the window.

Thanks everyone for Your input. I really appreciate your help and will let you know when I have completed the installation.

Thanks Again,
Randy
__________________
BBDAWG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2014, 01:43 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: STETTLER
Posts: 288
Howabout using a piece of 1x4 wood across the "header " of the window. Use construction adhesive (PL???) and just use two screws to hold the wood in place untill the adhesive sets overnight. Using the adhesive you would be using what structural strength the wall has. You might even be able to stretch the length of the 1x4 to straddle aluminum studs that you could also screw into for extra strength.
__________________
2001 Peak Kodiak towed with 07 Dodge diesel, ML430, 3 dogs. 1 longtime wife(50 yrs)
POPPASMURF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2014, 10:03 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Cypressloser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alberta - East of the Rockies, West of the Rest
Posts: 630
Pop Rivets
__________________
2013 RAM 3500 Longhorn Dually, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch, 2017 Riverstone Legacy 38RE, 960 Watt Solar
Cypressloser is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 08:45 AM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypressloser View Post
Pop Rivets
Thanks for the thought but I've tried to use pop rivets in my basement. The rivets just pull through the 1/8" paneling and will not bite into the Styrofoam behind.

I am going to try some
1/8ds Drive Wall Anchors

Which someone else has suggested.
Hillman Fastener Corp 1/8ds Drive Wall Anchor : Fasteners
__________________
BBDAWG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 09:01 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Cypressloser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alberta - East of the Rockies, West of the Rest
Posts: 630
Interesting, I have used them to install coat hangers, towel holders e.t.c. and never had a problem. Have you used aluminum rivets or steel, steel would be way to hard.
Have you drilled the holes at exactly the same diameter as the rivets?
If you do use the wall anchors you refered to then I would lubricate the screw to keep the anchor from spinning out before it can expand and provide a solid grip.

I did a quick Google search and interestingly enough came across this link which hits the nail on the head, so to speak.
__________________
2013 RAM 3500 Longhorn Dually, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch, 2017 Riverstone Legacy 38RE, 960 Watt Solar
Cypressloser is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 07:52 AM   #9
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypressloser View Post
Interesting, I have used them to install coat hangers, towel holders e.t.c. and never had a problem. Have you used aluminum rivets or steel, steel would be way to hard.
Have you drilled the holes at exactly the same diameter as the rivets?
If you do use the wall anchors you refered to then I would lubricate the screw to keep the anchor from spinning out before it can expand and provide a solid grip.

I did a quick Google search and interestingly enough came across this link which hits the nail on the head, so to speak.
HOW TO: Hang Things on RV Walls using Pop Rivets - YouTube
Yep, I have the same exact tool and I did use the 3/8" x # 6 aluminum rivets. It seems when the rivet pops it is too late and already punctured the back of the paneling which only leaves about a 1/16" of wood to hold the rivet.

Maybe I am doing something wrong but I have used the pop rivets for many years and uses.

I experimented on a piece of luan, about 1//8" thick and that is how I came to my conclusion.

MY main concern is the weight of those 2" faux wood blinds. When pulling them completely up, that is just a lot of weight and hanging down when traveling would be, well just a lot of weight and I don't want to find them on the floor when we arrive.

Your comment on the expandable is also on target but I found if you press them really firm into the paneling, they do not tend to spin but again, they must be held firmly against the paneling.
__________________
BBDAWG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 08:28 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Cypressloser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alberta - East of the Rockies, West of the Rest
Posts: 630
If you can't get the rivets to hold than the screws are probably the way to go, there are pro's and con's to both. I just don't trust glue for this application.
John
__________________
2013 RAM 3500 Longhorn Dually, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch, 2017 Riverstone Legacy 38RE, 960 Watt Solar
Cypressloser is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 08:34 AM   #11
Member
 
Kingw2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 69
If possible use toggles if you are able to clear out the foam for them to open up. If you go with the 1x4 idea you can use a panel adhesive glue. You will rip the wood apart before the glue fails. Trust me I know from experience as a a commercial carpenter there is a glue for everything.
__________________

__________________
Kingw2001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Refinish Walls Crop Duster Vintage RV's 33 05-20-2014 01:51 PM
My weekend (remodel - Image Heavy) SyrenSkywolf Travel Trailer Discussion 8 04-02-2014 01:31 PM
Re-stringing Blinds? Stano Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 22 02-03-2014 08:17 AM
2007 Travel Supreme Alante Power Windshield Blinds blueteddy Travel Supreme Owner's Forum 2 12-22-2013 09:59 PM
Day and night blinds removal jjas Class A Motorhome Discussions 5 11-23-2013 03:20 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.