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Old 04-17-2018, 07:48 PM   #1
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How to reset GFCI outlet with no reset button???

We picked up our new Montana High Country 381TH last Wednesday and right now 4 of my 5 GFCI outlets are not working and I can’t figure out how to reset them. ALL the GFCIs were working fine until yesterday when 4/5 of them stopped. The only one that continues to work is in the bathroom. That one also happens to have a reset button right on the outlet. NONE of the other 4 have the reset button.

On a previous RV, a few of the non-bathroom GFCIs were on their own circuit and were reset by a switch in the basement. The only switch I can find is the breaker. Is is NOT tripped and resetting it has no effect. The bathroom remains working (except when I’ve switched off the breaker, of course) and the remaining 4 no longer do anything.

I figure there has to be a switch… but where? Keystone can’t help. Customer service said to contact the dealer. Of course, the dealer said to contact Keystone. Neither actually know. And there’s no owners manual with the specific details of my layout.

This is terribly frustrating as I feel entirely on my own here, merely a week after paying for my unit and leaving the lot. While this is overall a minor matter, the inability to get any support is what’s particularly notable. It is very inconvenient to essentially not have any working outlets in the kitchen. But not knowing when (or even IF) the matter will be resolved is frightening.
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:52 PM   #2
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How to reset GFCI outlet with no reset button???

Usually only one GFCI outlet is installed in a circuit and other outlets are daisy chained in and protected by the one outlet.
My guess is you have a GFCI outlet hidden somewhere that is tripped causing the other daisy chained outlets to be dead.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:02 PM   #3
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Correct as described above. Mine is in the bathroom for the kitchen outlets
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:25 PM   #4
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For a working GFCI the answer is to push the button on the working outlet. If the downstream outlets are not working it's a bad GFCI or a broken wire.

If pushing the button on the GFCI does not work the next move is to *temporarily* replace the GFCI with a standard duplex outlet. If everything then works the GFCI is bad so buy an new one and replace the duplex outlet. If that does not fix it then check for power at the next outlet down the line. The input wire their can be bad the same as the output wire can be bad at the GFCI.

Get that far and post again if you are still having a problem.
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:37 PM   #5
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Correct as described above. Mine is in the bathroom for the kitchen outlets
I thought that might be the case. The bathroom outlet DOES work but I did try to press the reset button to no avail. I opened up the bathroom outlet and all wires looked to be in place securely.
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:40 PM   #6
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If pushing the button on the GFCI does not work the next move is to *temporarily* replace the GFCI with a standard duplex outlet. If everything then works the GFCI is bad so buy an new one and replace the duplex outlet. If that does not fix it then check for power at the next outlet down the line. The input wire their can be bad the same as the output wire can be bad at the GFCI.
So the bathroom is the GFCI outlet with the reset switch. As I mentioned, the bathroom DOES work. Are you saying the bathroom outlet (being the only "GFCI protected outlet" with a reset button) is the one I should remove and install a duplex outlet?

Or replace the downstream outlets?
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:06 PM   #7
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I'm guessing there is another gfi.
Had a similar issue years ago and foung the miccrowave outlet in the cabinet is where the gfi was that was tripped.
Have you checked for additional gfi's?
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:25 PM   #8
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Does the bathroom GFCI outlet work when tripped? If it does, it’s wired incorrectly.

If it doesn’t, then you either have a bad GFCI, a bad connection between the GFCI and the next plug in the series or your other four outlets are on a different circuit.

Good luck
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:35 PM   #9
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Check that wire leaving GCFI Outlet (fed wire to next outlet) is HOT (120V)
then go to the 'next' outlet in the circuit (if known) and check IF it has 120V from the GCFI


Wiring on these Cheap RV Outlets are 'pressed' into a 'V' slot to make connections
Any loose wire and every outlet downstream will not work
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:13 PM   #10
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GFCI

With GFCI working go to the first down stream socket & check Voltage with a meter on black wire that you pulled off the First down stream socket .Turn off power before you pull off wire to down stream socket making sure that black wire is not touching anything then turn on power to check voltage. You may find broken wire when you pull it out of socket .If no voltage you have a break in the line coming from GFCI or a bad GFCI Be aware that GFCI has hot wire & several ground & neutral wires If you are not confident doing that GET HELP Be safe Good Luck Hal
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Old 04-18-2018, 01:44 AM   #11
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As I recall outlet wiring is continous ,outlets are crimped on 'no screw' connections, the gfci is wired with screws. I like the suggestion that the gfci is wired wrong, power in is reversed with power out terminals. The OP needs the wiring diagram ,he has no clue what outlets are down stream our which one comes first ,second, third,ect. To test the system just pull the gfci and temoprary bypass it and 'wire nut' the conductors ,then check the other outlets, simple test.

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Old 04-18-2018, 03:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clifford j View Post
As I recall outlet wiring is continous ,outlets are crimped on 'no screw' connections, the gfci is wired with screws. I like the suggestion that the gfci is wired wrong, power in is reversed with power out terminals. The OP needs the wiring diagram ,he has no clue what outlets are down stream our which one comes first ,second, third,ect. To test the system just pull the gfci and temoprary bypass it and 'wire nut' the conductors ,then check the other outlets, simple test.

CLIFFORD

x2

Mark the wires as you remove them from the GFI outlet. One pair (black and white) are attached to the "line" terminals. "Line" indicates the incoming 120 volts. One pair is attached to the "Load" terminals. "Load" is the receptacles that are down stream from the GFI receptacle. Line and load should be marked on the outlet, usually on the back. You might want to check that the line and load are connected to the correct terminals before doing anything else. Make sure the white and black wires in each pair come from the same cable. Theses can get mixed up easily.

Wire nut, lightly, the blacks together. Then wire nut the whites together. Turn the breaker back on. If all your outlets work then the GFI needs to be replaced.

If they still don't work:

then there is another GFI hidden somewhere that has tripped or,

a connection has come loose in one of the outlets that are not working or a hidden junction. Most likely the receptacle closest to the bath GFI or,

a wire between the GFI and the next receptacle or junction has been cut.
(not likely)
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Old 04-18-2018, 03:54 AM   #13
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My vote is for another GFI with a reset somewhere. I have 2 in the kitchen and 1 in the hall bath.
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Old 04-18-2018, 04:37 AM   #14
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Check the outlets in your basement storage, they may be GFI, too, and daisy chained to the interior.
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