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Old 04-29-2016, 04:47 PM   #1
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Hub play on 6k lb LCI axles

I just finished replacing my outboard bearings. The first three spindles, I tightened the nut then backed it off until it hit the first castellation (usually not much). On the last hub I decided to try Lipperts method and back off 1/4 turn to next castellation. This created some some play between the hub and axle. So I tried my original method which turned out to be zero play. Is it okay to have a little play? Is for the metal to expand when hot? Is no play better than play?<br />
<br />
Cent frum my sell phone so pleeze excuse my spelling and grahmar.
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:21 PM   #2
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This is out of the OEM Lippert Axle manual.


Bearing Adjustment/Hub Replacement

For adjusting bearings or replacement of removed hub, follow procedures below:


1. Place hub, bearing, washers and castle nut back on axle spindle in the

reverse order from which they were removed. Castle nut should be torqued

to 50 ft.-lb. Hub will rotate during this process.


2. Loosen castle nut to back off the torque.


3. Tighten castle nut finger tight until snug.


4. Insert cotter pin (or locking tang if equipped with Super Lube). If cotter pin


or tang does not line up with hole, back castle nut up slightly until pin or


tang can be inserted.


5. Bend cotter pin over to lock nut in place (or locking tang in the case of


Super Lube). Nut should be free to move with only the cotter pin keeping it


in place.




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Old 04-29-2016, 05:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h20ski View Post
This is out of the OEM Lippert Axle manual.


Bearing Adjustment/Hub Replacement

For adjusting bearings or replacement of removed hub, follow procedures below:


1. Place hub, bearing, washers and castle nut back on axle spindle in the

reverse order from which they were removed. Castle nut should be torqued

to 50 ft.-lb. Hub will rotate during this process.


2. Loosen castle nut to back off the torque.


3. Tighten castle nut finger tight until snug.


4. Insert cotter pin (or locking tang if equipped with Super Lube). If cotter pin


or tang does not line up with hole, back castle nut up slightly until pin or


tang can be inserted.


5. Bend cotter pin over to lock nut in place (or locking tang in the case of


Super Lube). Nut should be free to move with only the cotter pin keeping it


in place.




With that being said, I guess hub play is OK.
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:38 PM   #4
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I was taught years ago by my Father to "Set" the bearing and loosen, set it(Tighten) a couple of times, then while turning the hub, and backing off the nut, start looking of the cotter pin hole.........no end play, but not really tight while rotating the hub. I have never had a failure.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:28 PM   #5
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+2 on palehorse88 suggestion. Been wrenching 25 years,that's my method.

CLIFF
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clifford j View Post
+2 on palehorse88 suggestion. Been wrenching 25 years,that's my method.

CLIFF
+3 here
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:48 AM   #7
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On tapered bearing too much end play can really tear things up. Too tight, ditto. If you can actually feel end play with the weight of the brake drum and new grease in there the end play will actually be much greater than what you think. I've done a bazillion of these in my 50 years of wrenching my own junk. The best way is: with new bearings tighten the nut up while turning the hub to 50-60 ft lbs, no need to be exact, just get it tight. This will seat the bearings in. Then loosen it and run the nut down with your fingers, turn the nut down till it just stops. You can use a wrench to do this but apply zero torque on the nut, just till it stops/makes contact. This should be close to zero end play. If the cotter pin is lined up in this position you may be okay to stick it in but that could be a little tight once everything gets up to operating temperature. But if you back it off one notch of the nut you are good to go. I like about 1/2 notch of the castellated nut. I have actually sanded down the face of the nut to fine tune it.

The bottom line is, not too tight and not too loose.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:11 AM   #8
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just swapped the tires on mine and noticed all 4 hubs had play in them. I tightened them up and took all the slop out of them. Basically just like these guy said. You don't want play but you don't want tight either. Too loose will chew the bearings up and too tight will burn them up. I learned years ago on an old trans am I had how to do hub bearings......I think it was my 4th try that was a charm.
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:33 AM   #9
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When we pack our bearings and try to set the bearings we forget that grease actually causes a lot of fool space there! You think the bearings are at or close to zero end play and they aren't as that grease is in there. Case in point, back in the day when Harley Davidson used tapered bearings in the wheels the end play was set via shims. Per the manual you put some light oil on the bearings and assembled the hub without seals and checked end play. Once you got it right then you pack the bearings and assemble it with the seals. If you can physically feel play in a wheel hub with bearings that are the size of trailer wheel bearings you are drastically loose. If it has been running like that for a while I'd suspect odd wear in the bearing rollers and races. On mine after I run the re-packed bearings for a 100 miles or so I jack it up and see if there is any play at the tire/wheel. If yes, I re-set that nut. New lovely thick grease can fool ya.
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
I was taught years ago by my Father to "Set" the bearing and loosen, set it(Tighten) a couple of times, then while turning the hub, and backing off the nut, start looking of the cotter pin hole.........no end play, but not really tight while rotating the hub. I have never had a failure.
Not quite right. You don't rotate the hub at all after loosening it after the preliminary "set." Rotating it then will roll grease back in and give a somewhat false idea of the amount of clearance.

Here is Dexter's instructions:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50FTt. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.
5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.
6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin.
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