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Old 12-13-2013, 08:07 AM   #1
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insulating the cap

has anyone attempted to insulate behind you nose cap. I have a fiberglass shell and understand I need to go in from inside. I also understand that I would need to use spray foam due to settlement.

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Old 12-13-2013, 08:18 AM   #2
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I spoke with a fellow who did it a few years ago. He removed the cap and used aircraft insulation. It was installed with a glue. This was quite successful however he was well versed in using this material. Spray foam is not what I would use. I have used it for other things like a cab extension similar to a truck sleeper. All it did was squeak and frost over when very cold. I live in a log home and have used it between logs in minor spots because of it's expanding qualities. I just don't recommend it for what you want to do.
Good luck

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Old 12-13-2013, 12:18 PM   #3
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You could go from the inside. You could add a shoe rack or something to your liking to cover up entry. just a thought.
2003 Teton Grand Freedom. 2006 Freightliner Century 120 with Detroit 14L and Ultrashift.. Full time going from job to job. Building and maintaining plants across the USA. Sold 2006 Mobile Suites 32TK3
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:34 PM   #4
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In my old Jayco Designer series 5er I took off the front cap and cover under the king pin and took out the thin fiberglass the factory installed batt and redid it all with ridged foam. The cap all had 2 inch wood under it and I filled every void with 2inch ridged then over filled the bigger voids with R19. Under the overhang it was all 3 inch steel box tubing. I took out the batt and install new 3 inch ridged foam. Under the darco underbelly I added 5 rolls of R 19 insulation. What a difference. Ridged foam is about 5 times more effcient then fiberglass and cuts with a hand saw with foil on both sides. Great product. I glued and screwed with fender washer all foam into place. I also added 2 inch in the storage compartment ceiling and under the bed.
-Paul R. Haller-
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:50 PM   #5
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Good call. I know I'm going to put the rigid foam on the ceiling of the storage. I winterized the camper and took it to northern Wisconsin for 18 days over Thanksgiving. I stayed in it to find the cold spots with temps down to -18 with 28mph winds it was not hard. I have the obvious stuff figured out like I replaced all the furnace duct with insulated duct. I insulated the basement and added supports to hold the added weight. I bought a box of those foam noodles for kids in pools and wrapped all my water lines with that. The noodles are thicker and colorful! Lol! Without skirting the camper was warm but the bed is at the head and that was cold.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:01 PM   #6
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I added rigid foam in some places and compartments. I also cut to fit insulation pads for every single window and storage door in the RV. I attached them to the doors. And then the windows are just loose pieces that I put up at night and then are held in place by blinds or little magnet push pins I found at a hardware store. Made a big difference and I have used them a few years now. Both in hot and cold weather as they are also reflective.

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