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11-18-2012, 02:37 PM
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#1
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Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
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Insulation
I am doing some work on the valve on my poo poo tank and even though the underbelly is enclosed there is no insulation under the main living quarters of my camper. Should I add insulation, what kind, on the floor of the belly or attach to the sub floor? Thanks in advance for your help.
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11-18-2012, 03:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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You can if you want, couldn't hurt. Usually it's just laying up on top of the under belly.
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11-18-2012, 05:51 PM
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#3
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Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
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Would that be just regular fiberglass batt insulation?
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11-18-2012, 08:10 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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Yep. Nothing special.
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11-18-2012, 08:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tasmania now, USA/Canada/Alaska in April
Posts: 2,473
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Fibreglass batt insulation can soak up a lot of water and become useless.
If you are insulating to stop tanks freezing then it will be of limited benefit unless you have a heat source there as well
__________________
Tony Lee - International Grey Nomad. Picasa Album - Travel Map
RVs. USA - Airstream Cutter; in Australia - MC8 40' DIY Coach conversion & OKA 4x4 MH; in Germany - Hobby Class C; in S America - F350 with 2500 10.6 Bigfoot camper
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11-18-2012, 09:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: MotherLoad foothills approx.60 m.s east of Sacramento
Posts: 1,281
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You would do better to spray foam the underside as fiberglass will soak up water. You could also retro fit tank heaters with minimal expense. When in use your motor home is an efective heatsink. Slightly freezing temps ouside probable won't freeze the holding tanks.
__________________
Full time since Nov 2012 RVM#41 Gary and Marian Hill 2001 Monaco Dynasty Jack 38' 370 hp ....If it ain't broke I can still fix it.
Like putting shoes on an octopuss, so are the days of our lives.... 
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11-19-2012, 06:06 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fulltime, USA
Posts: 16,706
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Thought of insulation for the wet bay. Saw only work there. Opted for a $5 trouble light for in the bay when temps are below 30. Works well.
But I avoid temps below 40, and my knees thank me for that.
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11-19-2012, 06:31 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: White City, Oregon
Posts: 240
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Good answers above, but 'mat is not your friend' as noted above. If you want to go down this route take 1 or 2 inch fome (sp?) (can't find 2''? No problem, just glue two 1" together) sheets and lots of contact glue. Same stuff they use 'in home' wall construction. Gets a bit fiddlie, and not a job one guy can do as you put a 10'-12' 2x4 (on edge) underneath and lift (PRACTICE THIS FIRST!!) into place. Take pre-cut sections of 2x4 to act as wedges to hold the board/fome sheets in place while the glue sets/holds.
Actually took a light automotive floor jack and had enough room to slide same under the middle and did a light upward push (it doesn't take much) and the thing worked a treat.
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11-19-2012, 07:15 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: DFW, Tex-US
Posts: 6,196
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consider some reflectix as a barrier --- just found out our 5er has it throughout !!
__________________
'11 Monaco Diplomat 43DFT RR10R pushed by a '14 Jeep Wrangler JKU. History.. 5'ers: 13 Redwood 38gk(junk!), 11 MVP Destiny, Open Range TT, Winn LeSharo, C's, popups, vans, tents...
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11-19-2012, 07:32 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 81
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Go to any home supply of your choice and get blue foam board - you can find 1", 2" and maybe 4". Also get some liquid nail glue in tube. Then go to a truck tire repair shop and get three or four inner tubes that will hold air. Then you just cut pieces to size, put liquid nails on the side to glue up and use the inner tubes to hold in place. If the distance is greater than one tube fill lift/hold then put one on top of each other.
__________________
Palpatine
2008 F-450 King Ranch (mutha hauler)
2011 Mobile Suites 36TKSB3
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11-19-2012, 12:37 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wet Coast of Canada
Posts: 625
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The reason there is no insulation is simple. Warm Air Rises! So Unless You have a source of Heat underneath insulating is a waste of time and money! Proper Air circulation underneath is important so don't seal moisture in or You will have Rust.Rot and Mold to contend with in the years to come.
__________________
Rob
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11-20-2012, 07:46 AM
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#12
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Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRV
The reason there is no insulation is simple. Warm Air Rises! So Unless You have a source of Heat underneath insulating is a waste of time and money! Proper Air circulation underneath is important so don't seal moisture in or You will have Rust.Rot and Mold to contend with in the years to come.
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I had not thought of this. I only thinking of a warmer floor. Maybe I should put my shoes on. 
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11-20-2012, 11:49 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RobRV
The reason there is no insulation is simple. Warm Air Rises! So Unless You have a source of Heat underneath insulating is a waste of time and money! Proper Air circulation underneath is important so don't seal moisture in or You will have Rust.Rot and Mold to contend with in the years to come.
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So the warm air rises from the ground in sub freezing temps and keeps the tanks and any lines from freezing? Makes sense
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11-20-2012, 03:37 PM
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#14
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Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
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There really is no way to seal the basement completely, I was just trying to think of a way to save $$ in the summer and propane in the winter.
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