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Old 03-12-2014, 10:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEagle View Post

You can find ST235/85R16F rated at 3960# at 95 psi if you're willing to use them. The are interchangeable with your LRG tires because they - your LT tires - are for trailer service.

FastEagle
No way my unit will have 110lbs of air in the tires because it needs it to operate properly.
No way 80 lbs or 95 lbs of air is enough to carry 3500 lbs in a 235 wide tire.
My truck has 275s and only rated for 3450 lbs at 80lbs.
Just because I don't sit in my unit does not make me think that ST tires have better rating then LTs.
I used overloaded and over inflated LT tires by 20% with no issues replacing problematic GY Marathon tires. Every ST GY tire blew within 2 years and that was while using unit 4 months per year.
The LTs lasted over 7 years while Full Timing with more load for 3 of those years.
In addition, when an LT looses air it will still stay together. I experienced 2 flat tires on the rear of my trucks and it was a no event. On one I thought my rear end had failed and only found a flat tire. Must driven 1/4 mile with the 2500lbs pin load in the truck
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:05 PM   #30
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Tire Upgrade

Mine came with 15" Load Range C that were barely enough to hold the trailer up so changed to E's @ 65lbs. Still ST's and working fine. A lot more stable though. What I don't understand though is why you did it your self. I took the trailer to the tire dealer and they did it in about a half hr, no charge and I retourqed them after 100 miles with my 12.99 HF torque wrench that I checked against theirs and found it to be almost dead on.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:31 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by FastEagle View Post
It’s not what you can do for your trailer that counts. It’s what you’re supposed to do. As your RV trailer is being built the vehicle manufacturer is going to rely on inputs from those that were delegated to insure safety standards are followed. The regulations and standards for tire/wheel fitment for RV trailers requires the vehicle manufacturer to select what - in their opinion - is the best option for that trailer. Costs are always going to have an influence on tire/rim selections. It’s the same in the automotive industry. You can go look at new vehicles at your favorite auto dealers showroom and find Bridgestone tires on a SUV. Right next to it the half ton truck will have Hankook tires. The bottom line for RV trailers is the vehicle manufacturer selects and certifies tires for the vehicle. Without any other options spelled out in the owner’s manual crossing tire designs will be a no-no. For RV trailers, tire load capacities rule the day. Every bit of the information you can amass, pro or con, about such and such tires doesn’t hold water if they are not equal to or exceed the load capacity of the Original Equipment tires. Take a good look at your trailer’s owner’s manual. It’s going to tell you to use replacement tires of the type found on your trailer’s certification label or others that may have recommended there in the owner’ manual. It will also tell you if in doubt to seek advice from themor the tire manufacture. The word key was the. It means the tire that was OE on your trailer. Does that make me a supporter of ST tires? NO! I’m just posting how it’s supposed to be done. When asking tire manufacturers such as Maxxis about replacements, they will only recommend a higher load capacity if available in that size. Otherwise, ask the Vehicle manufacturer. TRA guidelines are bigger is better in that the replacement must have load capacities equal to or greater than the OE tires. Ditto for the RMA. Tire manufacturers do not want to interfere with the vehicle manufacturers mandate to select and certify OE tires. So, they have written numerous notices and bulletins informing their retailers not to do it. Most of the big guys in the tire industry have disclaimers in their tire warranties for misapplications. Some have gone so far as to reference the tire safety warnings in your trailers owner’s manual as another disclaimer.

Some RV trailer manufacturers are more receptive to their owners requests and will give a green light to any replacement tire design used for replacements as long as it equals or exceeds the load capacity of the OE tires.

FastEagle
I REST MY CASE!!!!!!

Jim W.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:39 AM   #32
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As usual for these types of threads everyone is mixing apples and oranges. The OP was about using Michelin Ribs on a trailer, then we start mixing ST vs. LT, known good brands vs. known bad brands, E range tires with G range tires, etc. A Michelin Rib is not the same as a consumer LT tire which is not the same thing as a Goodyear Marathon which is not the same thing as a Maxxis M8008 which is not the same thing as G-rated tires, and so on. It's no wonder no one can agree because virtually no one is talking about the same thing.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:15 AM   #33
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I took the wheels off my trailer myself because the tire shop parking lot was way too small to get my rig in, then back out of their parking lot.

Plus I needed the workout. I would recommend every other day to rotate your tires yourself on your trailer and drop the gym pass. It is a very good workout. In 2 months you would look like those TV Commercials. Thin and muscular.
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:22 PM   #34
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I'm sure there are a lot of folks out there that have used LT's over ST's and found the Lt's are a better choice for durability. I've had my share of blown out ST rated tires used on utility and camper trailers. I've found from years of experience, using LT rated tires in this application is much safer and less costly when it comes to possible damage to your equipment. If there is any chance you overload your trailer, ST's will fail before an LT will, bottom line.
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