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Old 11-22-2013, 06:14 PM   #15
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The electric heater is a resistive load and when the voltage drops, but it does not draw more amps. For a give heater, reducing voltage, will reduce the heat output. A motor will draw more amps trying to maintain the output.

Jimmy done 'splaned it.

We can run two 1500 Watt heater with no problem. Just make sure each one is on a different breaker.

Ken
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Old 11-22-2013, 06:19 PM   #16
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Keepimg Warm

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Originally Posted by jwomack View Post
Only at the rated voltage of 120v. Resistance of the 1500w heater is 9.6 ohms (R=V/I or 120/12.5). At 100v the current draw is I=V/R or 100/9.6 = 10.416 amps. Since power output = I*V, the output of a 1500w heater rated at 120v drops to 1041.6w when applied voltage drops to 100v.
In simple terms, the only constant is the resistance of the heater. The output in watts and the current draw in amps vary with the applied voltage.

Note: This relationship applies ONLY to pure resistive loads such as heating elements or incandescent light bulbs NOT motor or other impedance loads.
I wired the inside up with (2) 110 outlets so the wife can plug in her hairdryer and also a 1400 watt heater. When I hookup I just plug my heavy duty extension cord into the 110 by the 50 amp plug in. Works great. I guess I could call it a separate 110 circuit. In 2 years I have only been to 1 campground that didn't have a 110 receptacle.
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Old 11-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #17
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We've spent a few winters in a TT or our Motorhome. We've been able to keep the living spaces warm by supplementing the propane furnace with an electric oil filled radiator like this one.

During the day we would close off the bedroom/bathroom area - we have a sliding door that closes the back of the motorhome of, and run the radiator in the living space. At night, we would move it to the bedroom.

It definately helps with the near-constant cycling of the furnace when camping in cold weather.



We also have custom fit cutouts of Reflectix Double Reflective Insulation for each window (except the windshield). We got ours at Home Depot and bought the widest version that they offer so we could do a single piece per window. Reflectix 4 ft. x 25 ft. Double Reflective Insulation-BP48025 at The Home Depot

The reflectix insulation on the window helped to bring up the interior spaces by as much as 10 degrees.

The downside to the reflextive insulation is that the interior of the RV is much darker.
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #18
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free heating after install cost

install a solar system

install this under your ..not wood.. contour top they well stick right to it and the lager serfec area well heat

Waterproof Silicone Rubber Flexible Heating Pad 60 60mm 12VDC 10W | eBay

you can find bigger or smaller that pull 3 amps to 15 amp dc

PS get a lower temp or get one with a temp sencer installed in it

i have seen this setup befor and was thinking of adding it my self to my contour top as my top is 3 feet buy 6
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Old 11-29-2013, 05:54 PM   #19
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You may want to check into the cheap heat system from rvcomfortsystems.com. I installed mine about three years ago and love it. This is something you can upgrade next year and benefit from it next winter. This system heats my 36 foot Mobile Suit, 2004, with three slides evenly. No more need for portable heaters. I have the 5000 watt, 240 volt heater coil. This system is heavy duty and well built. I'm very happy with my decision to install the cheap heat system.
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Old 11-29-2013, 06:28 PM   #20
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What's wrong with the propane heater, not putting out? I'm assuming the electric is not free, particularly with the load you will be putting on that pole.
You got to give it to them Brits, particularly with them candles and couple of flower pots, that's why Blitzkrieg didn't phase them.
Pip pip, cheerio and all that rot, stiff upper lip stout fellow.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:32 PM   #21
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I ran a 20 amp outlet from the electric box and control it with a high voltage thermostat. That runs my 1500 watt heater. I then plug my 1000 watt heater into other any outlet. On 50 amp service I can run both heaters, the 1000 watt water heater, the 1000 watt microwave and the refrigerator all at the same time with 1000 watts left to use for whatever.

I installed a lower wattage water heater element and a smaller microwave so I could do this. On 30 amp service I have to shut something off to use another. My range hood is 12 volt so when boondocking I do not need to turn on the inverter just to run the light or fan.
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Old 11-30-2013, 02:53 AM   #22
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Where are the breakers usually found in a 5er?

I have no clue where to begin looking and never thought to ask the prev owner...

Vanguard,(97) made by same co that made Kodiac as far as I can tell
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Old 11-30-2013, 12:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Where are the breakers usually found in a 5er?

I have no clue where to begin looking and never thought to ask the prev owner...

Vanguard,(97) made by same co that made Kodiac as far as I can tell
Start by looking in all closets and compartments. The 120 v panel should look like one in a home or apartment. 12 v panel is usually fuses. When you find it, be sure to buy an assortment of 12 v fuses of the same size and keep them handy. Also make sure the circuit breakers and fuses are clearly labeled to know which one controls which circuit. Taking a little time now to identify and label so in time of need (typically 2 am) you know which one to head for. I printed out lists that are taped near each panel.
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Old 11-30-2013, 12:29 PM   #24
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Jimmy, oops. You are correct on purely resistive heaters.
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Old 11-30-2013, 12:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paw John View Post
You may want to check into the cheap heat system from rvcomfortsystems.com. I installed mine about three years ago and love it. This is something you can upgrade next year and benefit from it next winter. This system heats my 36 foot Mobile Suit, 2004, with three slides evenly. No more need for portable heaters. I have the 5000 watt, 240 volt heater coil. This system is heavy duty and well built. I'm very happy with my decision to install the cheap heat system.
Wow, let's see, living in a 19' travel trailer for the winter. A couple of lightbulbs, a ceramic heater and foam insulation OR a 240 volt system requiring special service or a 50 amp service with both hot legs connected together. The 'Cheap Heat' system, per their website, requires professional installation (5-6 hrs billed) and perhaps upgrade to 50 amp service, (they say upgrade can be done for a couple of hundred dollars) and the 'cheap' heaters range from $195 to $649 (I have a different definition of 'cheap.' I know, because I am!)
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Old 11-30-2013, 01:05 PM   #26
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That is just plain NUTS!
It would take more than 20 burning candles to output the same amount of heat as a single 1500 watt electric heater.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:05 PM   #27
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To us, colonials, with 1500W heaters that might look like a barmy idea, but crikey, it's only eight pence per day.

hjs
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:02 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mel stuplich View Post
That is just plain NUTS!
It would take more than 20 burning candles to output the same amount of heat as a single 1500 watt electric heater.
Up here in the north we keep emergency candles in the trunk, If you are ever stranded in a storm or without gas and it is winter, light the candle, you would be surprised at how it keeps away the bitter chill... adding a flower pot, might even make it warmer...

I think this is brilliant for an emergency, I doubt it was meant to heat you to toasty warm....
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