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Old 04-11-2014, 08:58 AM   #43
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I have a bubble level on the back, works great. I use boards for side to side leveling also works great. If you want to use the plastic leveling blocks make sure the are big enough to support all of the tire. Tires hanging over the blocks can cause tire damage.
I see improper sized boards being used all the time.
But no need to have an 8 ft long board neither.
I use 2 x 6 cut to 12 long and lay them side ways 3 wide and stack them if required. Works for us for the past 22 years. Also craddle them to jack the frame with my 8 ton jack. Even use them when I work on the truck.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:55 AM   #44
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We use wooden blocks in various thicknesses from 2 down to plywood for side to side leveling. Normally I get them free from new home construction sites. I just ask the site foreman if I can have scrap wood from their dumpster or scrap wood pile.

Ive become very proficient at eyeballing the first attempt at leveling and setting my wood selections in place. Very close is good enough for the frig. I get very, very close when spending a week or longer at CG/RV park.

If were lucky enough to get a solid surface parking site that is level I still put 1/4 plywood under the tires for their protection. Especially if were going to be there for a week or longer.

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Old 04-13-2014, 08:25 PM   #45
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Buy a auto level system!

Seriously though, I would probably check on the floor of the main living area and the 4 corners.
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:47 PM   #46
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it is not trailer level but fridge level that is more important
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:14 AM   #47
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Here goes a dumb question....if fridge level is important (which I agree with).....what about towing with the fridge on? 5er might not sit perfectly level on TV, up hill, down hill, curves, bumps, potholes, etc...
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:44 PM   #48
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Here goes a dumb question....if fridge level is important (which I agree with).....what about towing with the fridge on? 5er might not sit perfectly level on TV, up hill, down hill, curves, bumps, potholes, etc...
Exactly. I never level the fridge. I always level the 5'er. If my fridge is so far out of level when my 5'er is level then I guess I own a POS 5'er. My 5'er is never level when running down the hwy. And I run it 100% of the time when traveling.

You only need two levels or just one combo on the front. No need for four levels. All that's needed is a side to side and a front to back. Having four on all four corners is a waste of time. I have a 5'er with a combo on the pin. I can back into a site and look thru the back window and see which way it needs to be leveled. It also has a front to back bubble on it. Once side to side is established, I hit the front landing gear switch and raise or lower the front to get it level. I see no reason to have levels on all four corners.
If one level shows level then why would you need 3 more to show the same thing?
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:33 PM   #49
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I don't really worry about mine either. I just get it close and call it good. I would assume the fridge is level with the 5er.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:03 AM   #50
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Cumminsfan, SultanFris----I do the same. Side to side, then front to back. I assumed fridge would be installed level at the manufacturer. That would be a major pain if you had to constantly level by going inside rv to check level at fridge.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:50 PM   #51
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I posted this on another thread to get feedback. It's a roll-on graduated leveling system with a chock to lock it. It can go from 0-4" and is easy to check and change the level without having to reset blocks:

Camper Leveler from Anderson
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:54 PM   #52
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I'll stick with my blocks I got for $5 at menards. Lol
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