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Old 12-22-2011, 10:19 AM   #15
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LoveToCamp, more and more 5ers now have Auto Leveling systems avail as an option. All new Montanas come with the Level-Up system as standard. You probably could upgrade your Big Country. I had the system added to our unit a year after purchase and love it, works great.
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:30 PM   #16
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I use 12 " long 2 x 6 blockings and install then sideways under the tires usualy 3 wide to protect the tires.
My wife operates the truck as I placed the 2 x 6 and she then drives the trailer on them, she can move forward and backward as I add more layers as required. And then unhook the truck with the front landing gear raised. 95 % of the time the trailer ends up level because I set it up that way, to be leveled off the truck. In less then 5 minutes I am leveled and unhooked. Been doing this for the past 18 years with never any problems.
But with a 39 ft trailer the front to back leveling has to be good becaue the front traval has to be lots when trying to level of a not well adjusted truck height.
P.S. 2 x 8 never do because they will split and end up with 2 narrow pieces.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:37 AM   #17
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Levelling 5th Wheel Travel Trailer

I have two scissor type jacks attached to the rear frame of the trailer, and I am wondering if these would be sufficient to level, along with the landing gear on the front.
Then, the only blocking that I would need is for distributing the weight for the feet of the jacks, The GWR for the trailer is 8300#
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:54 AM   #18
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You can add the leveling indicators to nose and side... And I think you should.

To do this FIRST level the rig using the level you use now.

THEN add them so they indicate level

There are two popular kinds,, Rolling ball in a curved tube and bubble in liquid in a curved tube. IN both case accuracy is dependent on how good a job you do of bolting them on.. Repeatability is very close to 100% on the rolling ball and is 100% on the bubble (Repeatability means it will give the same indication for the same degree of "level" every time).
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macleadv View Post
I have two scissor type jacks attached to the rear frame of the trailer, and I am wondering if these would be sufficient to level, along with the landing gear on the front.
Then, the only blocking that I would need is for distributing the weight for the feet of the jacks, The GWR for the trailer is 8300#
Most manufacturers do not recommend (some insist not to) using stabilizers for leveling. You need to level side to side with boards, lynz, whatever, then level front to rear with the landing gears or tongue jack. After everything is right, then drop the stabilizers snug.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:13 PM   #20
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I have 7K axles on my unit
I installed 7K scissor jacks behind the rear wheels and can lift the side of the unit with them, but the screw will not stay with the load on it so I have been using boards to level and used them to stabilize the center of the unit. On a 39ft unit its realy effective to stabilize the center that will bounce on the springs,
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alageezer View Post
Most manufacturers do not recommend (some insist not to) using stabilizers for leveling. You need to level side to side with boards, lynz, whatever, then level front to rear with the landing gears or tongue jack. After everything is right, then drop the stabilizers snug.
That depends on the rig!! We have an HWH system, it has 4 12,000# rams and can suspend the vehicle for as long as you want using them. And I usually leave it with the front tires off the ground for 4 to 6 months at a time.
This is also OK'd by Newmar, Spartan and HWH.
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:26 PM   #22
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That depends on the rig!! We have an HWH system, it has 4 12,000# rams and can suspend the vehicle for as long as you want using them. And I usually leave it with the front tires off the ground for 4 to 6 months at a time.
This is also OK'd by Newmar, Spartan and HWH.
I was referring to a trailer, not mh. A mh has a much stronger frame than a tt or fw.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #23
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Leveling

I always used to be frustrated by the leveling problem, as I owned several motorhomes with auto level. Soooo I bought a new Jayco Pinnacle with the same auto level as motorhomes. I AM a happy camper now.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:53 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
LoveToCamp, more and more 5ers now have Auto Leveling systems avail as an option. All new Montanas come with the Level-Up system as standard. You probably could upgrade your Big Country. I had the system added to our unit a year after purchase and love it, works great.
I have a 2011 Big Country 3250TS that came with regular electric landing gear and rear stabilizers. I researched several months and decided on the Rieco-Titan Ground Control Rieco Titan Products Ground Control Wireless RV Leveling Systems, which is totally electric.
The Level-Up is a great system but was more $$$$$ than I wanted to invest adding all the hydrolic components.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:12 AM   #25
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I use a two foot carpenter level and place it on the floor of my front storage compartment. I can also check the floor just inside the enterence door. Or you can have a dealer install the stick on type.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:57 PM   #26
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Someone mentioned the large levels that go on the pin box. Are they any good? How about durable out in the wind, weather, etc? It would be nice to see from the cab how close you are....
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:22 PM   #27
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Frankdamp that is a lot of wood you carry around. IF it is comfortable it is good.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:17 AM   #28
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We had a Montana 3400RL. I used the great big bubble level on the front of the pin box. When we were in the site I could look at that level and tell how many boards I had to put down. (No auto-level at that time), the I had a small bubble level on the side.

The only requirement is to have the 5'er as perfectly level before installing the bubble levels in their position. Most of the time you can find a nice parking lot that will not require a lot of jockeying to get level the first time. Have a good drill bit for drilling the holes in the pin box. That metal is thick.

Here is a additional piece of info that worked great for me. We all know that to unhook the truck from the 5'er we have to raise the king pin just a tad out if the hitch receiver. So raise it until there is just a little daylight, or so. Here is the tip:

Get another small bubble level and using double back 3m tape put a magnet on the back slick side of the bubble. With the king pin just showing daylight, put the magnet with the bubble level on the side of the pin box and turn it until the bubble is level. Now pull away from the 5'er (don't forget to have the tail gate down.) Go back and level the fiver from front to rear - but don't touch that level that you set using the magnet.

When you are ready to leave, lower or raise the 5'er until that magnet bubble level is showing level. Back the truck under and you should be as close as you can be to where it was when you unhooked. Just rememeber that there may have been some settling of the spring on the truck and they have expanded back to original, so maybe just a tweak to get it right, but in my case I was able to "bump" up and engage.

Happy trails.
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