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Leveling the coach for camping
12-19-2011, 08:29 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 34
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Does anyone have any good suggestions or suggestions on products to use for leveling the coach when setting it up for camping? My 5er does not have the leveling gauges on the nose and side like my old TT did, but I don't know how accurate those were anyway. I currently use a carpenters level to check level and seems to work ok. If I continue to use the level are there any really good places on the coach that I could place the level for accurate readings? I usually put the level on the center of the floor inside the door. This is my first 5er and I've only had it for about 7 months. Thanks in advance for any tips or thoughts.
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2011 Heartland Big Country 3595RE
2005 Ford F350 dually 6.0L Diesel
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12-19-2011, 08:45 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 4,289
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I have five ways to check level:
1. Lights on the HWH control panel, not real accurate.
2. Small bubble level mounted beside the driver, OK if I haven't bumped it.
3. Torpedo level on the floor, OK
4. Bubble level in the refer, OK if your refer is level in regards to the unit.
5. Open cabinet doors and see if they stay open, OK.
I usually use the torpedo level on the floor and then finish with the cabinet door method.
__________________
2002 Newmar Dutch Star 4090 ISC 350/1050 with Banks Kit, now 435/1200
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA f47302s
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life Member
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12-19-2011, 10:32 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 106
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Coke can. Very simple method. I know it is simple but it works great! My IPhone has a clinometer that I use most of the time for my class a.
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Fleetwood Discovery 37V
2012 Silverado 1500 Z71
2012 Range Rover
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12-19-2011, 10:53 PM
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#4
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 88
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Since the main reason other than comfort is so the refrigerator works correctly I level until a bubble level on the refer or freezer floor is right on level. Then I hunt around for another easier spot to get to that shows the same reading and use that from then on. Many techs say if your comfortable or at least half of the bubble is in the middle of those little round bubble levels then all is OK for the refer anyway.
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2005 Itasca Meridian 34 plus 450 W solar power
2009 Jeep Wrangler
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12-20-2011, 07:12 AM
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#5
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Member
Thor Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 31
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We use a carpenter level, DH places it on the trim in various spots on the outside of 5ver, he uses a golf ball inside, along the floor and island counter. We don't have much trouble getting level.
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12-20-2011, 07:56 AM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Newmar Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Ford Super Duty Owner Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Fulltime - Currently somewhere in the lower 48
Posts: 1,724
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I DO have one of those big ball levels mounted on the front of my kingpin box. I level side to side using that. When it looks to be level, I double check with a carpenters level on the kitchen counter and adjust as needed. Then I do the same front to back. I adjust the landing jacks with a torpedo level on the bedroom slideout frame. When it looks level, I again put the carpenters level on the kitchen counter and adjust as needed.
Sounds anal, but when I park somewhere, I'm going to be there for a few months. If I am traveling between locations and just stopping for the night, I only use the outside level for side to side. I use the torpedo as mentioned above to get it as level as I can without unhitching.
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John, Joyce & Libby the Yellow Lab. - Fulltime since May 2008
2005 Kountry Star FW-35LKSA by Newmar pulled by 2008 Ford F-450 King Ranch, PSD, Automatic, 4:88's
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12-20-2011, 10:12 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 561
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My DW says that if the bathroom door stays open when we make our old age runs, at night shes happy.
I use the kitchen counter top, side to side, front to back.
I would rather have a level closer to the control panel but haven't found a level area there.
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"If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there'd be a shortage of fishing poles."
1999 Pace Arrow 34N
Vancouver,WA
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12-20-2011, 12:35 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: seale, al
Posts: 96
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After I make a trip to WalMart and purchase a set of stick on levels, I use a carpenters level on the stove top. I hate it when my eggs or pancake batter runs to the side. After I get it on the money, I put the levels outside where I can see them handily, and stick em on. After that, use the little ones and call it close enough for government work.
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12-21-2011, 09:19 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Newmar Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Ford Super Duty Owner Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Fulltime - Currently somewhere in the lower 48
Posts: 1,724
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as far as product go, when stopping for the night, I use the Lynx leveling blocks. They now have flat, smooth tops that fit onto the blocks. I don't like the fact that the block doesn't provide a flat even surface for the tires so i use these tops too. I only use the lynx when stopping for a night or two or three. For entended stays I use 11"x11" pieces of pressure treated plywood. I got eight pieces from a 2'x4' piece of plywood. I carry 1/2" as well as 3/4" pieces. During the extended stays I use the Lynx blocks under my bottom step to provide a little more stability.
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John, Joyce & Libby the Yellow Lab. - Fulltime since May 2008
2005 Kountry Star FW-35LKSA by Newmar pulled by 2008 Ford F-450 King Ranch, PSD, Automatic, 4:88's
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12-21-2011, 09:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,023
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On the old TT we had as kids, dad used a plumb-bob and marks on the trailer to level. We had three jacks two front, one rear center. He had a screw-eye he hung the plumb-bob from in the front to level side to side, and one near the back on the side for front-back leveling. Plumb bob was a string and a large iron nut. Ahh, those were the days.
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2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
WARNING: See THIS THREAD before you take any of my advice.
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12-21-2011, 09:54 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA (Stick & Brick)
Posts: 1,087
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Here's how I did it when we first got our GT. First, I picked up a couple of stick-on levels at the hardware store. On the assumption that, if the fridge is level, everything else will be close enough. I put a 12" carpenter's level on the bottom of the fridge and got it close to perfect in both axes.
Then I attached the two stick-ons where I needed to see them when levelling. In my case, with built-in levelling jacks, that was close to the driver's seat, where the jack controls are on the left corner of the dash.
My first use is to get the rig as level as possible on the pad, before I even start jacking. If the pad's too far out of level, I get another site or ask for a refund and move on.
I then level using the jacks manually. I find auto-level isn't programmed sensibly. With DW's help, I get the four jacks as close to the ground as I can before they touch. They run in pairs (left side, right side, front, back), but it doesn't take more than a couple of minutes, usually, before we're level within a gnat's whisker and solidly planted. We're usually low enough that the retractable steps are an easy step up from the ground. Auto level often got us too high.
I will be making jack pads during the off season, just as extra support if the ground is uneven or very soft. Four 2 x 4's side by side then four more on top at 90 degrees, topped by a sheet of 3/4 ply.
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Frank and Eileen Damp -Anacortes, WA.
One Lab (a rescued yellow male) - Bailey 9 in July
02 Georgetown 325, Ford F53 with V10
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12-21-2011, 05:57 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Western New York (summer) someplace warm (winter)
Posts: 261
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OK, I'll be the smart a??. Disconnect TV and push the Auto-Level button. 20 to 30 seconds, done and level. Sorry, just couldn't resist, but I do feel your pain. Went thru the ritiual for many years.
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2011 Chevy Silverado 4x4 3500 HD LT Extended Cab, DRW, Duramax/Allison, 2010 Montana 2955 RL with just about everything, MorRyde IS w/Disc Brakes, dual ACs, auto level, auto sat dish, combo washer/dryer. Michelle & Ann
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12-21-2011, 08:08 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA (Stick & Brick)
Posts: 1,087
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MHS:
You must had a very unusually good auto level system. If I use mine in auto mode, we usually end up with most of the actuators at maximum extension and need pitons and ropes to make it to the bottom step of the access stairs.
Can't be bothered to try and recalibrate, as manual levelling takes so little time.
__________________
Frank and Eileen Damp -Anacortes, WA.
One Lab (a rescued yellow male) - Bailey 9 in July
02 Georgetown 325, Ford F53 with V10
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12-21-2011, 08:59 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 34
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Well I'm glad to see that I've been pretty accurate, for the most part, with the rest of the camping world when it comes to leveling and what locations on the coach I use to level. I'm glad to hear that everyone else, except for my brothers in motorhomes, are doing the same as I am. Wish I had the hydraulic levelers like the motorhomes but won't give up my 5er for it.
__________________
2011 Heartland Big Country 3595RE
2005 Ford F350 dually 6.0L Diesel
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