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Old 12-19-2011, 09:29 PM   #1
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Leveling the coach for camping

Does anyone have any good suggestions or suggestions on products to use for leveling the coach when setting it up for camping? My 5er does not have the leveling gauges on the nose and side like my old TT did, but I don't know how accurate those were anyway. I currently use a carpenters level to check level and seems to work ok. If I continue to use the level are there any really good places on the coach that I could place the level for accurate readings? I usually put the level on the center of the floor inside the door. This is my first 5er and I've only had it for about 7 months. Thanks in advance for any tips or thoughts.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:45 PM   #2
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I have five ways to check level:
1. Lights on the HWH control panel, not real accurate.
2. Small bubble level mounted beside the driver, OK if I haven't bumped it.
3. Torpedo level on the floor, OK
4. Bubble level in the refer, OK if your refer is level in regards to the unit.
5. Open cabinet doors and see if they stay open, OK.
I usually use the torpedo level on the floor and then finish with the cabinet door method.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:32 PM   #3
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Coke can. Very simple method. I know it is simple but it works great! My IPhone has a clinometer that I use most of the time for my class a.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:53 PM   #4
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Since the main reason other than comfort is so the refrigerator works correctly I level until a bubble level on the refer or freezer floor is right on level. Then I hunt around for another easier spot to get to that shows the same reading and use that from then on. Many techs say if your comfortable or at least half of the bubble is in the middle of those little round bubble levels then all is OK for the refer anyway.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:12 AM   #5
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We use a carpenter level, DH places it on the trim in various spots on the outside of 5ver, he uses a golf ball inside, along the floor and island counter. We don't have much trouble getting level.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:56 AM   #6
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I DO have one of those big ball levels mounted on the front of my kingpin box. I level side to side using that. When it looks to be level, I double check with a carpenters level on the kitchen counter and adjust as needed. Then I do the same front to back. I adjust the landing jacks with a torpedo level on the bedroom slideout frame. When it looks level, I again put the carpenters level on the kitchen counter and adjust as needed.

Sounds anal, but when I park somewhere, I'm going to be there for a few months. If I am traveling between locations and just stopping for the night, I only use the outside level for side to side. I use the torpedo as mentioned above to get it as level as I can without unhitching.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:12 AM   #7
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My DW says that if the bathroom door stays open when we make our old age runs, at night shes happy.
I use the kitchen counter top, side to side, front to back.
I would rather have a level closer to the control panel but haven't found a level area there.
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:35 PM   #8
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After I make a trip to WalMart and purchase a set of stick on levels, I use a carpenters level on the stove top. I hate it when my eggs or pancake batter runs to the side. After I get it on the money, I put the levels outside where I can see them handily, and stick em on. After that, use the little ones and call it close enough for government work.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:19 AM   #9
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as far as product go, when stopping for the night, I use the Lynx leveling blocks. They now have flat, smooth tops that fit onto the blocks. I don't like the fact that the block doesn't provide a flat even surface for the tires so i use these tops too. I only use the lynx when stopping for a night or two or three. For entended stays I use 11"x11" pieces of pressure treated plywood. I got eight pieces from a 2'x4' piece of plywood. I carry 1/2" as well as 3/4" pieces. During the extended stays I use the Lynx blocks under my bottom step to provide a little more stability.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:42 AM   #10
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On the old TT we had as kids, dad used a plumb-bob and marks on the trailer to level. We had three jacks two front, one rear center. He had a screw-eye he hung the plumb-bob from in the front to level side to side, and one near the back on the side for front-back leveling. Plumb bob was a string and a large iron nut. Ahh, those were the days.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:54 AM   #11
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Here's how I did it when we first got our GT. First, I picked up a couple of stick-on levels at the hardware store. On the assumption that, if the fridge is level, everything else will be close enough. I put a 12" carpenter's level on the bottom of the fridge and got it close to perfect in both axes.

Then I attached the two stick-ons where I needed to see them when levelling. In my case, with built-in levelling jacks, that was close to the driver's seat, where the jack controls are on the left corner of the dash.

My first use is to get the rig as level as possible on the pad, before I even start jacking. If the pad's too far out of level, I get another site or ask for a refund and move on.

I then level using the jacks manually. I find auto-level isn't programmed sensibly. With DW's help, I get the four jacks as close to the ground as I can before they touch. They run in pairs (left side, right side, front, back), but it doesn't take more than a couple of minutes, usually, before we're level within a gnat's whisker and solidly planted. We're usually low enough that the retractable steps are an easy step up from the ground. Auto level often got us too high.

I will be making jack pads during the off season, just as extra support if the ground is uneven or very soft. Four 2 x 4's side by side then four more on top at 90 degrees, topped by a sheet of 3/4 ply.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:57 PM   #12
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OK, I'll be the smart a??. Disconnect TV and push the Auto-Level button. 20 to 30 seconds, done and level. Sorry, just couldn't resist, but I do feel your pain. Went thru the ritiual for many years.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:08 PM   #13
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MHS:

You must had a very unusually good auto level system. If I use mine in auto mode, we usually end up with most of the actuators at maximum extension and need pitons and ropes to make it to the bottom step of the access stairs.

Can't be bothered to try and recalibrate, as manual levelling takes so little time.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:59 PM   #14
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Well I'm glad to see that I've been pretty accurate, for the most part, with the rest of the camping world when it comes to leveling and what locations on the coach I use to level. I'm glad to hear that everyone else, except for my brothers in motorhomes, are doing the same as I am. Wish I had the hydraulic levelers like the motorhomes but won't give up my 5er for it.
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